What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[mikez71]

Discovered GM started getting cute with window switch screws after '09..
Management said "Give us a screw that pulls out twice as easily!"

My '12 screws would just slide into aftermarket '09 bezel, but do bite in my used OEM '09 bezel.
The '09 screws do screw into the amazon replacement bezel...

Notice all the plastic dust at the tip of the serrated(2012) screw..

 

[Rocket Man]

Got a “new” key fob. I’ve been using a 2015 style retrofit for about 4 years, but it was looking pretty bad and it has some extra buttons I don’t need. Also those buttons seem to press more easily (when I don’t want them to) so I’d always walk out to rear hatch being open.

Felt like returning to the old simple one. I got this from NorthCoast Keyless and picked the “lightly used” option (it’ll get scratched up anyways). $24.94 shipped and it appears to be an oem one

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Boost Auto has 2021 style now and if you get the correct one for your vehicle, it wont have any “extra buttons” . Mine dont inadvertently open anything

.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

grabbed a dorman at the store and proceed to R&R and the door clips had no mercy at all, this support part broke off, luckily it was a rather easy Macgvyer fix
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Nicely done! I need to replace my passenger side rear door handle that came off in my hand last week. I'm waiting until the temperature warm up a bit first.

 

[Doubeleive]

Nicely done! I need to replace my passenger side rear door handle that came off in my hand last week. I'm waiting until the temperature warm up a bit first.

you'll probably have to do like I did and grab the broken off nut with pliers, without scratching the paint. I managed to only make one tiny mark.
then the rod is held in with a yellow clip that just pulls back, it can be very stiff.
that part that broke off on my door panel is at the top outside edge (just below where the inside unlock pull-tab is), you might want to be extra careful right there

 

[mikez71]

then the rod is held in with a yellow clip that just pulls back, it can be very stiff.
that part that broke off on my door panel is at the top outside edge (just below where the inside unlock pull-tab is), you might want to be extra careful right there

Thinking about that yellow clip hurts my fingertips!

I believe that door panel clip & bracket (that always breaks) is only on the front doors.
If you have a proper clip removal tool, it's' definitely worth using it there.

Thinking about 3d printing a clip holder bracket as my replacement panels are missing them.
That said, I don't seem to notice the missing door panel clip..

 

[Doubeleive]

Thinking about that yellow clip hurts my fingertips!

I believe that door panel clip & bracket (that always breaks) is only on the front doors.
If you have a proper clip removal tool, it's' definately worth using it there.

Thinking about 3d printing a clip holder bracket as my replacement panels are missing them.
That said, I don't seem to notice the missing door panel clip..

the one that broke on mine was a rear door

 

[89Suburban]

after changing the door handle and vacuuming the rear of the truck I had a very annoying rattle in the back couldn't quit figure it out so had my son ride in the back and had him pinpoint it, discovered it was coming from behind the passenger rear side lower panel (where the rear ac/heater box is) so pulled out my subs the 3rd row seats, pulled all the panels out and the rattle disappeared......put it all back together and rattle gone, so really don't know what it was but thank the gods.....
it was a buzz buzz buzzz about 30mph+, super annoying

Any pics while it was apart?

 

[Doubeleive]

Any pics while it was apart?

no, it comes apart like they always have except on the the 900's the rear upper pillar cover comes off separate, just has 1 screw the rest is clips
you take that piece off and then the upper & lower hatch covers and then the whole long piece that covers the hvac box just pulls out. easy to do, I just had to disconnect my amp and subs first, then remove the 3rd row seat.
If it wasn't for my subs It could be done in less than 5 minutes

 

[LSCALADE]

had checked the catch can about a month ago, wasn't bad. few oz of normal looking oil with about 2500mil on it. Just changed it at 3k and checked it again. week or 2 of cold Temps below 32 and short drives. crazy amount of condensation to me since I've never seen any before.

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That should keep the valves clean otherwise that gets sucked into the combustion chambers and burns off but its best to keep it out of it. On Ethanol they produce way more condensation too.

 

[j91z28d1]

That should keep the valves clean otherwise that gets sucked into the combustion chambers and burns off but its best to keep it out of it. On Ethanol they produce way more condensation too.

yeah just surprised to see the water, had the catch can on here almost a year now and never seem anthing but oil. being south tx, the cold snap is pretty rare

 

[the_tool_man]

yeah just surprised to see the water, had the catch can on here almost a year now and never seem anthing but oil. being south tx, the cold snap is pretty rare

I've been running a catch can for 4 years. I empty it at every oil change (5k miles roughly 4-5 times a year). In the summer months, the fluid in the can looks like dirty oil. In the winter months, it looks like Yoohoo (chocolate milk). I assume this is condensate from sitting overnight every night. If anyone is on the fence about a catch can, you should add one. Even my 2012 with the revised valve cover baffle tries to push about 6-8oz of this stuff into the intake. And it's an easy and inexpensive measure to take.

I've been sidelined with a knee injury since mid-December. I've not been able to drive, and won't for a few more weeks, at least. I start it and let it warm up every few days. It's due for an oil change, so I can't wait to see what goo awaits me next time, lol.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

Buddy of mine printed this cupholder out and I like it. The print wasnt the greatest it warpped in a couple spots but the overall fitment and look is great. The cupholders are much larger than stock. It has a much tighter fit as well so its not rattling around. I'll have him print me another for the front set so it'll all match.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I took the Yukon out yesterday for a BlackBear data collection cruise, in preparation for some tune adjustments. I had my quiet 2 highway onramp/offramps selected for my WOT phases of the data collection cycle. I'm less than 1/4 mile from my first onramp for the first WOT, and what pulls in behind me to use the same onramp?? A cop in a cruiser! What are the odds!!

Oh, well, I needed to go to plan B.

Anyway, I got through the data collection cruise, and when I extracted the data collection file from the AutoCal, it was only 12KB in length. It should have been 3MB to the max 5MB for a 20 minute data collection interval.

Oh well, I'm going to have to do that data collection cruise again. Poor me. LOL

 

[mikez71]

Installed some shorter endlinks to try and line up Nolathane swaybars better.
(Energy Suspension 9.8162 adjustable from 2-3/4 to 3-1/4" spacing)
I don't think stock is completely parallel with ground? but thought I'd try. 2 following pics, truck on ramps.

Found out the short links would cause the swaybar to contact the lower arm when suspension droops.
Passenger side could use shorter link than driver side.
Driver side is where the interference with lower arm is.. At full droop here...

Other scratches on the bar, from last time when I backed down my ramps, but still had a jackstand underneath frame which slid forward
(Why did I have jackstands when on ramps already? The ramps looked like they were starting to collapse!)

Went BACK to the 9.8123 links that are 2" center section and 3.575" spacing.
Installing them without jacking up stock height truck is no fun. Front diff plate rests on your chest..

Or a lifted truck you could use longer links, and it might line up better..
With stock length links, on stock height truck, the eyelets don't line up so well and the bar is at a less effective angle.

My recommendation for endlinks that work with Nolathane bars at stock height. (Energy Suspension 9.8123)

 

[Sir_Hiro]

Replaced the Rear brakes. Pass Side inside pad was completed gone.
Replaced the Rotors put some Powerstop 17-1194 Ceramic Pads.

 

[Scrappycrow]

Installed some shorter endlinks to try and line up Nolathane swaybars better.
(Energy Suspension 9.8162 adjustable from 2-3/4 to 3-1/4" spacing)
I don't think stock is completely parallel with ground? but thought I'd try. 2 following pics, truck on ramps.

Found out the short links would cause the swaybar to contact the lower arm when suspension droops.
Passenger side could use shorter link than driver side.
Driver side is where the interference with lower arm is.. At full droop here...


Went BACK to the 9.8123 links that are 2" center section and 3.575" spacing.
Installing them without jacking up stock height truck is no fun. Front diff plate rests on your chest..

Or a lifted truck you could use longer links, and it might line up better..
With stock length links, on stock height truck, the eyelets don't line up so well and the bar is at a less effective angle.

My recommendation for endlinks that work with Nolathane bars at stock height. (Energy Suspension 9.8123)

I hate to be an ass and ask, but: is the bar possibly on upside-down?

 

[mikez71]

I hate to be an ass and ask, but: is the bar possibly on upside-down?

Not at all! I had it upside down initially!! Alignment worse.. Looks like it might snap endlinks.

Current links are about .5" longer than the short links shown in my previous post.

upside down, rightside up.
Stock length endlinks.

 

[Charlie207]

Replaced the Rear brakes. Pass Side inside pad was completed gone.
Replaced the Rotors put some Powerstop 17-1194 Ceramic Pads.

I can feel my brakes acting wonky, and pulling ever-so-slightly to one side when I stomp the brake pedal. I'm probably due for new pads up front, and maybe rotors too.

I've had rear pads crack in half, with the friction material floating in the caliper. Luckily it wasn't the fronts.

Anyone know what the minimum rotor thicknesses are, off the tops of your heads?

 

[mikez71]

30mm new
28mm discard thickness

 

[Charlie207]

30mm new
28mm discard thickness

Thanks. That's what I needed!