you can only monitor it with a scanner, mine seemed to stay at 180 no matter how hard I punish it
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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alpha_omega
Full Access Member
I wonder if that means both sides are on their way of going out. Or if they are just out of sync. Probably out of sync and going bad.
I know the drivers side on my ‘11 was either manually folded or unfolded by the guy at the car wash and hasn’t been right ever since.
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
What happened to the younger generation. A kid was just arguing with me about which transfer case my Denali had. I told him only one of them has a transfer case - the AWD, to which he replied:
“And there’s your problem, that’s probably the reason why the transmission doesn’t feel right.”.
I don’t argue with people, especially those who are unwilling to listen or those lacking the ability to learn. I’m pretty sure some of these kids are doomed.
“And there’s your problem, that’s probably the reason why the transmission doesn’t feel right.”.
I don’t argue with people, especially those who are unwilling to listen or those lacking the ability to learn. I’m pretty sure some of these kids are doomed.
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
I didn’t realize how much darker the Omega was. Alpha is definitely due for a new set of shoes - proper 22” this time.
And I’m still debating on whether or not to go full billet. I didn’t feel comfortable cutting all of the old grille frame out, because of how the billet mounts to it. Plus the weight difference is like 2lbs vs 25lbs. The overlays look cheap and are made even cheaper. Maybe it doesn’t matter up here in deer country.
they should never be out of sync unless one was pushed closed or pulled open and the button has not been touched again
you can go push the fold-in button, if one is not folding-in then manually fold it in, then go push the fold-out button and they both should fold out/fold in/fold-out/fold-in
but typically when they start messing up the gear is slipping.
It starts out happening random then eventually gives up the ghost.
one way to tell is get a helper and then have them push the button while you are close to the mirror (ear right next to it) and listen, if you hear a whirrrrrr noise and the mirror does not move then that is your clue. if there is no sound then the motor took a crap.
replacing with a plastic gear would be eaiser. but if you do go metal, you can reuse your stock motors, just remember the case connects to one of the terminals. so one way will work, the other way shorts out. I did it a few times like wtf, why isn't thing working haha. then it burn out the connection and worked right. (also how I realized there's a current limiter, since shorting it at least 3 times didn't hurt anything or pop a fuse) so the other side just take a razor knife and cut the connection and alls good.
there's a youtube video I found about it, of course after doing it haha.
TIL that the oil pressure sender is also the oil temperature sender.
Due to everyone saying it's a PITA, I was considering doing a remote hose if/when I have to replace the sender, but I probably won't do that now because that'd make the temperature reading completely useless.
OTOH, being an engineer, I might complicate the matter and do the remote sender for the oil pressure, then add a duplicate sensor and split the harness so that the ECU still gets the same signals and I can still see the oil temperature on my Torque Pro app.
I've been all over the wiring diagrams for my 2011 and there's no physical oil temp sensor anywhere.
gm did use a level sensor with temp sensor in the side of the oil pan, they measure oil temp in the sump. but they definitely didn't put that on my Denali, I wish they had. the ls3 car got it.
and gm has calculated Temps all over it's tuning. Just off the top of my head they calculate cat temp, fuel injector tip temp, oil temp, the 12v battery temp. oil aeration time for afm, all kinds of stuff. I believe I've even seen valve temp. it's all just math used in the ecm os for stuff. the injector temp is actually very annoying when tuning after you flash a fresh tune, it zeros it out and fuel trims are wacky till you drive for a few minutes for the calculation to catch up. most tuners just zero it out and tune around it.
if he was looking at a computer, it might list 2 tc. my Denali has the one with auto and 4hi 4lo. the parts store software might have shown the option?
Is the motor the same for both mirrors?it may be a sign of the gear inside stripping, typically the plastic part that fits on a metal rod cracks, then it starts to slip
fixing it takes about 30-45 minutes per side, easier to just replace the motor though if you can source a working used one, new ones or rebuilt ones are way overpriced.
I would not recommend the all metal replacement gear.
this will work fine if you determine it to be the problem, need one for each side
For Chevy GMC SUV Truck Power Folding Mirror Left or Right Side gear upgrade | eBay
THIS IS THE MOST COMMON PROBLEM IN CHEVROLET 07-14 FOLDING MIRRORS, THIS GEAR BREAKS SO IT WONT FOLD AGAIN UNTIL REPLACED. This gear will fit the following vehicles folding mirrors and non-tow mirrors (DOESNT FIT IN TOW MIRRORS) .www.ebay.com
Can I snag one from a donor on the passenger side to get a driver side mirror working again?
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
They should be interchangeable.
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
I changed out the harmonic balancer, and still have a wobble. I haven’t checked it with a straight edge to see if the pulleys line up, but I’m wondering if the crank is going out. Being a 6.2, I know they are subject to death if you drive too long with the wobble.
That was not what I had expected or hoped to see. Maybe the PWS pulley is wonky, but I would be more inclined to think a crank pulley would throw off a power steering pulley, as opposed to the other way around.
Thoughts? Can either one cause issues to the other? Maybe I need to pull them both off again and then do a reinstall to make sure they are seated correctly and true. Thankfully I have good puller tools for both of them. The ‘ugga-dugga’ helps make quick work with that crank pulley tool as well.
That was not what I had expected or hoped to see. Maybe the PWS pulley is wonky, but I would be more inclined to think a crank pulley would throw off a power steering pulley, as opposed to the other way around.
Thoughts? Can either one cause issues to the other? Maybe I need to pull them both off again and then do a reinstall to make sure they are seated correctly and true. Thankfully I have good puller tools for both of them. The ‘ugga-dugga’ helps make quick work with that crank pulley tool as well.
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
Right. It’s just odd that one side worked on close, then didn’t work on open. Whereas the other didn’t work on close, but then did work on open. No sound other than the normal operation sounds.
They both are probably due to be replaced.
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
Does hers not have the auto memory option to fold mirrors in after shutting the vehicle off?
Funny thing is, the last time the oil was replaced it was done at a valvoline shop. Doubt they used quality product, but who knows. For all I know they could have, and that’s why it came out looking like chocolate milk and Turkish espresso.
edit, no, the entire motor/housing is different left/right, the internal parts electric motor. gear are the same, some of lower gear housing is left/right only
the motor is the same 07-14, however some are mostly metal and some have more plastic parts
left & right are different though.
doesn't matter if it comes off a tahoe or yukon or avalanche, suburban they are all interchangeable, escalade should be the same as well
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I can't find any pictures of the ones that are mostly plastic, the ones I have seen might have been aftermarket, but on K2's they are definitely all more plastic in typical gm fashion of penny pinching.
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
Probably would have helped if o were more specific about that. The part you sent a link for is interchangeable.
I know someone was doing rebuilds of all metal components, but they cost a fortune just to have your mirror rebuilt.
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
What would cause a fluctuation of the speedometer while driving. It kept bouncing from 20mph to 30, down to 15 up to 50, and I was “hopefully” at 50-55mph the whole time.
Is that a sign of a failing dash? I thought the lights just went out, odd to see the flux like that. Tappy tap method didn’t help, in case anyone is curious. Nor did the hammer fist to the top portion of the dash.
Is that a sign of a failing dash? I thought the lights just went out, odd to see the flux like that. Tappy tap method didn’t help, in case anyone is curious. Nor did the hammer fist to the top portion of the dash.
I don't know about other software but the Torque App has an "Engine Oil Temperature" and a "[GM] Oil Temperature (Engine)" selection. The former didn't work, but with the latter, the oil temp fluctuates in a manner that makes sense given my oil vs. coolant temp and operating condition experiences compared to my other vehicles with a direct oil temperature gauge.
The part numbers for the oil pressure sender show it's a dual-function sender and it has four terminals. TBH, I haven't checked the wiring harness. You're saying the wiring harness does not have provision for the temperature part of the sensor?
yes that gear is typically the only part that goes bad and fit's either side, takes about 30-45 min to R&R, about 20-25 minutes once you have done it a few times......
For $10-12 you can diy, the mirror (base) does not even have to come off the door, it all dissembles from the outside.
