What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Sir_Hiro]

If you go to the junkyards and find some rear body vents (above the tail lights under the 1/4 trim) that aren’t falling apart, I need a set for my 13. I don’t have any junk yards near me that claim to have them. I need a C pillar trim also but it seems too big to ship.

Ok. Next time I go ill keep an eye out.

 

[tuckerrnr1]

Ok. Next time I go ill keep an eye out.

This, this is the thing that makes this a great community.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

This, this is the thing that makes this a great community.

Thanks. I also live 2 miles from a large junkyard so makes the trip not so bad lol.

 

[91RS]

Thanks. This is what I’m looking for, it says these fit all of the SUV’s:

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-body-pressure-relief-valve-15816854?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9cmVhci1ib2R5Jmw9MTYmbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT1jYWRpbGxhYyZvPWVzY2FsYWRlLWVzdiZ5PTIwMTMmdD1wbGF0aW51bSZlPTYtMmwtdjgtZmxleA%3D%3D

 

[mountie]

If you go to the junkyards and find some rear body vents (above the tail lights under the 1/4 trim) that aren’t falling apart, I need a set for my 13. I don’t have any junk yards near me that claim to have them. I need a C pillar trim also but it seems too big to ship.

Many salvage yards strip parts & sell them online…. They still charge you to enter the place. The salvage yard near me doesn’t seem to do that. ( Palm Beach County)……. Next time I go there, I'll take a look.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

Many salvage yards strip parts & sell them online…. They still charge you to enter the place. The salvage yard near me doesn’t seem to do that. ( Palm Beach County)……. Next time I go there, I'll take a look.

The ones by me only drains fluids and puts them on the yard. I've sold them several junkers over the years and they are strictly a u pick and pull place. There is one that pulls for you but does not allow you on the yard, they also charge damn near Auto Part Store prices for stuff its dumb.

 

[the_tool_man]

The ones by me only drains fluids and puts them on the yard. I've sold them several junkers over the years and they are strictly a u pick and pull place. There is one that pulls for you but does not allow you on the yard, they also charge damn near Auto Part Store prices for stuff its dumb.

The national chain LKQ has bought up all of the local junk yards. With no competition in the you-pull-it segment, they get away with much higher prices and a $3/visit cover charge to enter. Prior to that, I could pay $18 for unlimited visits every year. And the days of walking out with a free bucket of hardware and hose clamps with purchase of a $20 part are long gone. They will methodically pick through everything and assign a price to it. If it's an oddball part not on their price list, they'll make up a number and won't budge, even when you show them what it costs new. I learned the hard way to check their price list online before going. I recently pulled some dual piston NBS rear calipers to retrofit to my Yukon, only to learn they charge $7 more apiece than I can buy new at the parts store. These days, me and my buddies have a shared wish list of trim, interior, miscellaneous parts we need but are in no hurry for, and can't buy anywhere but the junkyard. One of us goes every few months and grabs what they can. I miss the old days.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

The national chain LKQ has bought up all of the local junk yards. With no competition in the you-pull-it segment, they get away with much higher prices and a $3/visit cover charge to enter. Prior to that, I could pay $18 for unlimited visits every year. And the days of walking out with a free bucket of hardware and hose clamps with purchase of a $20 part are long gone. They will methodically pick through everything and assign a price to it. If it's an oddball part not on their price list, they'll make up a number and won't budge, even when you show them what it costs new. I learned the hard way to check their price list online before going. I recently pulled some dual piston NBS rear calipers to retrofit to my Yukon, only to learn they charge $7 more apiece than I can buy new at the parts store. These days, me and my buddies have a shared wish list of trim, interior, miscellaneous parts we need but are in no hurry for, and can't buy anywhere but the junkyard. One of us goes every few months and grabs what they can. I miss the old days.

Oh LKQ tried that around me and a bunch of the bigger junkyards got together as a group and told them to F off. I have 4 different U-Pulls around me that I can get with.
Parts Galore being the biggest but furthest from me.
The one by my house is decently big with a $1 dollar charge and will only pick through complete things like door panels/engines. But they are normally pretty good on prices.

 

[Charlie207]

Oh LKQ tried that around me and a bunch of the bigger junkyards got together as a group and told them to F off. I have 4 different U-Pulls around me that I can get with.
Parts Galore being the biggest but furthest from me.
The one by my house is decently big with a $1 dollar charge and will only pick through complete things like door panels/engines. But they are normally pretty good on prices.

This website has helped me in the past: https://car-part.com/

 

[OBSandaNNBS]

Replaced the busted armrest with the Doorman unit. I'd rate that unit a 9.5 out of 10.
There is a maybe 1/16th inch gap along the bottom under the window switches. Not visible to driver though. It was also SHINY like it was dipped in ArmorAll (hate that). But it's very firm and not plasticy plastic.

But I BROKE the super well designed cable retainer on the original interior handle. New one is $90, which is $20 more than I paid for the armrest...

I plastic welded it for now, does anyone have a solution that's not a bill? The top "nub" broke

 

[Tonyrodz]

Replaced the busted armrest with the Doorman unit. I'd rate that unit a 9.5 out of 10.
There is a maybe 1/16th inch gap along the bottom under the window switches. Not visible to driver though. It was also SHINY like it was dipped in ArmorAll (hate that). But it's very firm and not plasticy plastic.

But I BROKE the super well designed cable retainer on the original interior handle. New one is $90, which is $20 more than I paid for the armrest...

I plastic welded it for now, does anyone have a solution that's not a bill? The top "nub" broke

If it was mine I'd just epoxy it. I'd think your plastic weld job should hold for awhile. Out of sight, out of mind.

 

[Scrappycrow]

The ones by me only drains fluids and puts them on the yard.

The Pull-A-Part locations around Atlanta do that by breaching the item with the fluid, usually via an air hammer splitting chisel. This means they destroy perfectly good gas tanks, oil pans, trans pans, etc. Way back when I had a Mercedes W123 300td Turbodiesel*, I ran across a Euro W123 with a highly-desirable modifiable injection pump, but the yard monkeys had obliterated it with an air hammer (at most it would have held a couple of ounces of diesel and oil each).

*Because many folks get this wrong and try to "correct" me on this, the "t" in 300td means "touring" (wagon), not "turbodiesel," so adding "Turbodiesel" is not redundant; a 300td is a diesel wagon and a 300td Turbodiesel is a turbodiesel wagon.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

The Pull-A-Part locations around Atlanta do that by breaching the item with the fluid, usually via an air hammer splitting chisel. This means they destroy perfectly good gas tanks, oil pans, trans pans, etc. Way back when I had a Mercedes W123 300td Turbodiesel*, I ran across a Euro W123 with a highly-desirable modifiable injection pump, but the yard monkeys had obliterated it with an air hammer (at most it would have held a couple of ounces of diesel and oil each).

*Because many folks get this wrong and try to "correct" me on this, the "t" in 300td means "touring" (wagon), not "turbodiesel," so adding "Turbodiesel" is not redundant; a 300td is a diesel wagon and a 300td Turbodiesel is a turbodiesel wagon.

The one I normally go to isnt that savage, I'm not sure they do it in the most cleanest way but they do leave all pans intact so all engines for the most part are 100% complete unless otherwise noted.

 

[91RS]

Many salvage yards strip parts & sell them online…. They still charge you to enter the place. The salvage yard near me doesn’t seem to do that. ( Palm Beach County)……. Next time I go there, I'll take a look.

Unless they’re calling it something different than I’m searching, I have not found any for sale and the places I’ve messaged and told me no.

 

[mikez71]

Replaced the busted armrest with the Doorman unit. I'd rate that unit a 9.5 out of 10.
There is a maybe 1/16th inch gap along the bottom under the window switches. Not visible to driver though.

There is the stud right next to window switches. If you cut it shorter, and mess with the plastic tab, you can minimize, possibly get rid of the bump.

I still have a little bump, but am planning to install 07-09 panels soon so didn't mess with the Dorman anymore other than cutting the stud shorter.

 

[the_tool_man]

Oh LKQ tried that around me and a bunch of the bigger junkyards got together as a group and told them to F off.

I bet that's an interesting story. How exactly did they do that? It's not illegal for them to buy out their competition.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

How exactly did they do that?

I bet that's an interesting story. How exactly did they do that? It's not illegal for them to buy out their competition.

They refused to sell is what I heard.

 

[lowh07]

Hey guys looking for some help. If anyone’s installed the Apoc rear arms, did they weld mine with the notches on the wrong sides?

The notches are supposed to be for caliper bolt clearance, so they should be facing out towards the calipers. Some earlier ones did not have notches. It seems like they should be oriented as pictured, with the threaded narrow end towards the front of the truck, and the wider end towards the rear with the notches closer to the rear. I installed them with the notches facing inwards because it seemed like plenty of clearance. Apparently turning up an incline can cause it to hit.

Apoc is telling me the threaded ends should be towards the rear, but that would move the notches towards the front and doesn’t seem like they’d be doing anything to clear the caliper bolts at that point. Trying to figure out if they’re telling me some bs. I ordered them late July and they just got here 2 weeks ago, with 6 delays from Apoc (that I had to reach out about each time - they didn’t tell me up front).



And this is a picture that Tony posted. To me it looks like mine are wrong.



Any help would be greatly appreciated. It’s like pulling teeth trying to get a clear answer

 

[OBSandaNNBS]

There is the stud right next to window switches. If you cut it shorter, and mess with the plastic tab, you can minimize, possibly get rid of the bump.

I still have a little bump, but am planning to install 07-09 panels soon so didn't mess with the Dorman anymore other than cutting the stud shorter.

View attachment 473098

Funny you should mention, that tab was broken off the door panel on mine. I wasn't about to plastic weld it too.
I'd describe it as a gap rather than a bump; runs the whole way back to the handle. Hard to see from driver's seat so no biggie.

I did learn that the 2010 up panels have a major reinforcement in that beautiful bump. I used to hate it but now appreciate it. They had to do something to deal with the plastic strength. I guess!

 

[Doubeleive]

Hey guys looking for some help. If anyone’s installed the Apoc rear arms, did they weld mine with the notches on the wrong sides?

The notches are supposed to be for caliper bolt clearance, so they should be facing out towards the calipers. Some earlier ones did not have notches. It seems like they should be oriented as pictured, with the threaded narrow end towards the front of the truck, and the wider end towards the rear with the notches closer to the rear. I installed them with the notches facing inwards because it seemed like plenty of clearance. Apparently turning up an incline can cause it to hit.

Apoc is telling me the threaded ends should be towards the rear, but that would move the notches towards the front and doesn’t seem like they’d be doing anything to clear the caliper bolts at that point. Trying to figure out if they’re telling me some bs. I ordered them late July and they just got here 2 weeks ago, with 6 delays from Apoc (that I had to reach out about each time - they didn’t tell me up front).

View attachment 473121

And this is a picture that Tony posted. To me it looks like mine are wrong.

View attachment 473122

Any help would be greatly appreciated. It’s like pulling teeth trying to get a clear answer

I assume those are the upper control arms? the 1st design is the only ones with a angle.
also it looks like you might run into the same "bushing" issue i did with the spohn, hollow bushings with a sleeve, mine split in half, then that allows the rear end to move making a sinking feeling when stopping and then a rise when accelerating.