What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[j91z28d1]

Plug it send it done

I'm all for plug and go but this one is a bit outside for me. if it was on that outside tread block I'd send it. but it looks a lot like sidewall and these Continentals and so soft.

blahy

 

[kbuskill]

blah


View attachment 470586

Just a heads up, that screw looks like it is backing out a little bit, you may want to tighten it up before it falls out and you have to go source another one.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Just a heads up, that screw looks like it is backing out a little bit, you may want to tighten it up before it falls out and you have to go source another one.

Another screw? Definitely don't want to lose that screw

 

[Sir_Hiro]

Used the Ole Girl to haul my new to me Drill Press..i can finally drill holes and save my wrists lol. Enco PD-13 from 1978. Steal at
30 bucks

 

[Doubeleive]

what do you guys think this little seepage might be? oil pan or oil cooler line seal?
i'm thinking the oil cooler line seal and the oil is getting blown around.

 

[mikez71]

I had one like that, replaced the coolerline gasket. Was bone dry for awhile, now oily again..

I'm hoping it's the oilpan. Even though there is oil on swaybar and trans inspection cover, it doesn't *seem* oily inside bellhousing.

Seeing someone's? post lately about oilpan gasket has me hoping its pan and not rear main...

 

[j91z28d1]

it could be more to it as all the gaskets seem to he the same quality level, but my experience is it's almost always the oil pan gasket first if it's got over a 100k on it.

the full oil pressure runs down thru the pan gasket to the filter and back up. that's 67 psi on mine when cold started without any bolts between the holes. over time I believe it slowly starts seeping past the built in kinda o rings, but not really o ring seals.



they are asking a lot of these gaskets with not much clamping force and a history of rubber that isn't the most oil resistant over time judging by the oil pick up o ring and all the rest of the oem gaskets. where a blue felpro will probably outlast the truck.

 

[Scrappycrow]

I finally fabricated a solution to something apparently only @mikez71 and I care about:



See the original post and my update here!

 

[dkad260]

Ordered the 3 bushings in the 4485 transfer case from the dealer today. I have a spare TC I'm going to rebuild then swap my OE and do the same to my OE TC.

 

[kbuskill]

For your viewing pleasure...

Kbuskill's 2008 Burb LTZ "MOD" Thread

When I got home from the exhaust shop I decided it was time to install the 2nd row center console I picked up at the U-pull it the other day. I pulled it from a Tahoe and expected it to not line up properly with the Suburban seat bolts. Turns out, I was right. Had to modify the brackets and...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[91RS]

 

[992dr]

Changed my rear rotors and pads today because I've been hearing a grinding noise. Drivers' side pads were gone down to metal and caliper was pretty damn stuck. Freed it up but am expecting it to stick again.
Also noticed on the passenger side axle seal is leaking. Saw some fluid remnants inside the parking brake drum YAY.
I'm seriously pondering getting a 14 bolt to replace my 10 bolt but at the same time after 12 years.

Random question. Has anyone swapped rear calipers for the 4 piston calipers using the CTSV brackets on an 07/14 model?
I was collecting parts to upgrade my brakes, have almost everything for the rears and nothing for the front. Would it be not in the best interest to install the rears now? I need to search here for more info on them.

 

[kbuskill]

Here is a neat upgrade for anyone needing to add a switch and wants to keep it looking stock...

Kbuskill's 2008 Burb LTZ "MOD" Thread

Pretty cool looking and I bet at a fraction of the cost of the Boost Auto new LED doorhandles they just unveiled. The turn signal flash of the handles is a winner! Like looking at my twin, minus some of the cool mods you have with the lighting. Very nice!! :peace: Yeah, the cost for the...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[j91z28d1]

View attachment 470799

what happened?

 

[j91z28d1]

Here is a neat upgrade for anyone needing to add a switch and wants to keep it looking stock...

Kbuskill's 2008 Burb LTZ "MOD" Thread

Pretty cool looking and I bet at a fraction of the cost of the Boost Auto new LED doorhandles they just unveiled. The turn signal flash of the handles is a winner! Like looking at my twin, minus some of the cool mods you have with the lighting. Very nice!! :peace: Yeah, the cost for the...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

clever

 

[91RS]

what happened?

I just figured I'd dump even more money into this damn truck instead of buying a Navigator. I wanted to do an AFM hardware delete because it is getting close to 200k miles and it had all the original parts so I could stop worrying about it. I wanted to supercharge it so it would be more competitive with something newer, but I sure wasn't going to do that with the original cam, lifters, valve springs, oil pump, timing chain tensioner, etc. I went with a mild aftermarket cam since I always regretting doing a stock cam when I did the AFM delete on our old Yukon and I let Matt Gower talk me into deleting the VVT as well. I also put LSA heads and head gaskets on it plus a trunnion upgrade, GMPP timing chain with LS2 dampener, Melling 10296 oil pump, BTR valve spring, BTR pushrods. I am having second thoughts about supercharging a 200k mile engine though, although I didn't see anything glaringly wrong with it, just the normal wear I expected to see, I didn't like how dirty the engine was inside even though I've been changing the oil every 3-5k miles with Red Line since I got it at 166k and I've had the oil pan off before to change the oil pan gasket. The Magnuson isn't crazy with only 6 PSI from a 1900 blower, but I can't help but feel like I should have found a used engine with at least half the miles. It looks nicer now with all the new parts and the LSA heads only had 42k miles and were super clean.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

I just figured I'd dump even more money into this damn truck instead of buying a Navigator. I wanted to do an AFM hardware delete because it is getting close to 200k miles and it had all the original parts so I could stop worrying about it. I wanted to supercharge it so it would be more competitive with something newer, but I sure wasn't going to do that with the original cam, lifters, valve springs, oil pump, timing chain tensioner, etc. I went with a mild aftermarket cam since I always regretting doing a stock cam when I did the AFM delete on our old Yukon and I let Matt Gower talk me into deleting the VVT as well. I also put LSA heads and head gaskets on it plus a trunnion upgrade, GMPP timing chain with LS2 dampener, Melling 10296 oil pump, BTR valve spring, BTR pushrods. I am having second thoughts about supercharging a 200k mile engine though, although I didn't see anything glaringly wrong with it, just the normal wear I expected to see, I didn't like how dirty the engine was inside even though I've been changing the oil every 3-5k miles with Red Line since I got it at 166k and I've had the oil pan off before to change the oil pan gasket. The Magnuson isn't crazy with only 6 PSI from a 1900 blower, but I can't help but feel like I should have found a used engine with at least half the miles. It looks nicer now with all the new parts and the LSA heads only had 42k miles and were super clean.

View attachment 470850

200K is nothing for these engines. And you just did the AFM Delete which is the most problem area of the engine. We've all seen people throw the Chinese sushi slicers on them with 60LBs of boost and them staying alive. Think of it this way...Either it works..or it doesnt but at least you tried.

With this engine you know the history mostly.
You're taking a crap shoot on buying a used one from a junkyard or Marketplace. Who knows the condition of the internals

 

[91RS]

This truck clearly wasn’t well cared for by its previous owners based on how much money I’ve had to spend on this truck. The only original paint left is the liftgate; I’ve had to replace the entire interior except the rear carpet, 1/4 trims, liftgate trim, and headliner; rear differential; entire suspension (more than once); brakes multiple times; transmission as PM; wheels; many sets of tires; and it still has a slight tire vibration. I feel like I’m close but I’m highly annoyed with this truck. I should have dumped it years ago but I felt like I was too deep and I just keep digging. But $60k+ for a 23-24 Navigator that will loose $20k in 2 years is something I don’t think I can swallow.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

This truck clearly wasn’t well cared for by its previous owners based on how much money I’ve had to spend on this truck. The only original paint left is the liftgate; I’ve had to replace the entire interior except the rear carpet, 1/4 trims, liftgate trim, and headliner; rear differential; entire suspension (more than once); brakes multiple times; transmission as PM; wheels; many sets of tires; and it still has a slight tire vibration. I feel like I’m close but I’m highly annoyed with this truck. I should have dumped it years ago but I felt like I was too deep and I just keep digging. But $60k+ for a 23-24 Navigator that will loose $20k in 2 years is something I don’t think I can swallow.

Sounds like adding a supercharger still wont fix your hatred for the truck lol We've all been there dumping to much money into a rig we shouldn't have.

 

[the_tool_man]

I just figured I'd dump even more money into this damn truck instead of buying a Navigator. I wanted to do an AFM hardware delete because it is getting close to 200k miles and it had all the original parts so I could stop worrying about it. I wanted to supercharge it so it would be more competitive with something newer, but I sure wasn't going to do that with the original cam, lifters, valve springs, oil pump, timing chain tensioner, etc. I went with a mild aftermarket cam since I always regretting doing a stock cam when I did the AFM delete on our old Yukon and I let Matt Gower talk me into deleting the VVT as well. I also put LSA heads and head gaskets on it plus a trunnion upgrade, GMPP timing chain with LS2 dampener, Melling 10296 oil pump, BTR valve spring, BTR pushrods. I am having second thoughts about supercharging a 200k mile engine though, although I didn't see anything glaringly wrong with it, just the normal wear I expected to see, I didn't like how dirty the engine was inside even though I've been changing the oil every 3-5k miles with Red Line since I got it at 166k and I've had the oil pan off before to change the oil pan gasket. The Magnuson isn't crazy with only 6 PSI from a 1900 blower, but I can't help but feel like I should have found a used engine with at least half the miles. It looks nicer now with all the new parts and the LSA heads only had 42k miles and were super clean.

View attachment 470850

FWIW, I'm giving serious consideration to doing exactly this, as my 187k mile Yukon with original AFM (disabled in tune, but parts present) engine is one day closer to failure every day. Except, I will buy a junkyard motor and do the work on a stand, while I continue to daily drive my Yukon. The short block on these can last quite a long time. If the compression and leakdown numbers look good, I say send it.