What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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alpha_omega

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Wiring harness - lower engine RH side. Where it splits under (ish) the timing cover and a/c compressor.

How the heck are the wires routed?

Interweb has about as good a photos as the ones I took for reference. Same for YouTube universities library of knowledge…not much help in this situation. The one set branches off but continues straight back along the trans cooler lines. One connector set goes to the starter solenoid, one for each of the sensors, the knock and the other for the crank.
The second line branched off has two or three plugs. One goes to the a/c compressor, maybe one to the line and another connector?. But I can’t for the life of me remember which path they take. In between the motor mount and the a/c, or is it in front of the a/c?
 

Charlie207

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About to cut & weld a single 3.5" catalytic converter into the exhaust. I don't need it, but I think it'll help with the stink, and maybe cut down on a little bit of the rasp.

It's a 100-cell race cat., so I'm guessing there won't be much of a flow penalty with a 4.5" diameter body.

1000010525.jpg

1000010526.jpg
 

Just Fishing

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Few weeks ago i took the tahoe to the ol desert property, used the tahoe for more space and loaded up 4 5 gallon buckets filled with water so i could refill the camper.

The week before that i put it into auto 4x4 in order to not spin tires on the wet boat ramp.

I of course forgot about that, and before the property trip i remembered about auto being set. So I turned the knob while being in a big rush to gtfo.

Headed up there the tahoe did great, but it felt like i didn't have as much power as mormal.
Doing like 80-90mph.

I come up to the last fuel stop and go "wow what happened to my gas mileage"

So i exit to top off, i ended up needing to make a tight turn and the front wheels were binding a bit.
I think "gee it feels like I'm in 4x4..."

I start fueling and thinking about the weirdness.
And i notice my tires look, umm like I drove in 4x4 on dry pavement.

So i check the knob for good measure.

I see it.
In my rush, 4 high was selected instead of 2 high.

:yuno:

:rage:

That's the second time i have done that, but this was the furthest i have ever driven.

I wish gm put a fkn idiot light, this idiot needs a damn 4x4 light!!

The jeep has one, my old s10 had it.
The s10 also had the buttons in the center of the dash.

The tahoe, it's this stupid knob with tiny letters, that's hard to see when driving.


I changed the transfer case oil, it had color in there.
Probably clutch material.
:yucky::violin2:


Oh well, so far it's still working great... lol
 

Charlie207

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Few weeks ago i took the tahoe to the ol desert property, used the tahoe for more space and loaded up 4 5 gallon buckets filled with water so i could refill the camper.

The week before that i put it into auto 4x4 in order to not spin tires on the wet boat ramp.

I of course forgot about that, and before the property trip i remembered about auto being set. So I turned the knob while being in a big rush to gtfo.

Headed up there the tahoe did great, but it felt like i didn't have as much power as mormal.
Doing like 80-90mph.

I come up to the last fuel stop and go "wow what happened to my gas mileage"

So i exit to top off, i ended up needing to make a tight turn and the front wheels were binding a bit.
I think "gee it feels like I'm in 4x4..."

I start fueling and thinking about the weirdness.
And i notice my tires look, umm like I drove in 4x4 on dry pavement.

So i check the knob for good measure.

I see it.
In my rush, 4 high was selected instead of 2 high.

:yuno:

:rage:

That's the second time i have done that, but this was the furthest i have ever driven.

I wish gm put a fkn idiot light, this idiot needs a damn 4x4 light!!

The jeep has one, my old s10 had it.
The s10 also had the buttons in the center of the dash.

The tahoe, it's this stupid knob with tiny letters, that's hard to see when driving.


I changed the transfer case oil, it had color in there.
Probably clutch material.
:yucky::violin2:


Oh well, so far it's still working great... lol

I've don't that, and then realized it while leaving a parking lot, with the front end hopping and chirping.
 

guy from norcal

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About to cut & weld a single 3.5" catalytic converter into the exhaust. I don't need it, but I think it'll help with the stink, and maybe cut down on a little bit of the rasp.

It's a 100-cell race cat., so I'm guessing there won't be much of a flow penalty with a 4.5" diameter body.

View attachment 466360
View attachment 466361
I use a resonator when i want less rasp and drone noise.
 

Charlie207

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I use a resonator when i want less rasp and drone noise.
I have a Dynomax Bullet in-line, before my main muffler, and it does cut down on the rasp so I'm hoping the cat. will add enough reduction so I can just hear the furious noise of my ~300-450hp... Because who knows how much it really makes.
 

j91z28d1

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I swapped out my cigarette lighters for switched USB-A and USB-C outlets. I had to enlarge the holes a little and do some cutting on the bezel to make room for the retaining nuts. But they fit and look factory if you ignore the color mismatch of the LEDs.

View attachment 465895

Closeup of surgery. This cutout allows the nut to align with the hole so everything ends up square.
View attachment 465896

View attachment 465897

Connections made. I'm liking this Deutsch connector kit I bought when I fixed the headlights. A couple of 2-conductor plugs did the trick. I bought this part at LKQ and kept the original just in case.
View attachment 465898
View attachment 465899

They're backlit blue when on. Now I can switch off devices that are plugged in rather than unplugging them.
View attachment 465900


any chance you can link them? Amazon has so many I don't know which would fit
 

alpha_omega

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Today I realized that a dumb mistake was made. Amidst all of the new parts I had ordered and multiple boxes that arrived, I didn’t double check the length of the ARP balancer bolt against the OEM GM Genuine bolt I removed. I had already installed the APR bolt, but noticed it wasn’t sitting flush against the front of the harmonic balancer. So I tried to tighten it down. Thank god I didn’t break the bolt, because I could hardly get the SoB off.

Long story short - wrong bolt was delivered. About 1” too long. New bolt was ordered, so now I’m still waiting to install the starter until after I finish correcting my own mistake.

Back to driving the Audi or the other Yukon for now.
 

j91z28d1

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I’d better recheck the balancer nose distance at the snout, before installing the correct ARP bolt. Granted it shouldn’t have moved, since the longer bolt bottomed out before the head even touched the washer.


I'm probably then only weird person that feels like the oem bolt is better than the arp.

arp is nice that it's reusable, but the oem bolt just gets tightened to what feels like double the tq, has lock tight on the threads and some kinda sealer under the head. for the price, it feels like a good deal.

not that either is going to slip on our suv's
 

Charlie207

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On second thought, it's gonna take some more enginerding than I want to get into right now, bummer.

The crossover pipe that runs along the transmission cross member is not parallel to the cross member, so there's not enough space to install the vband where I want to.

Plus, I'd have to pull the headers off the block, and I'm too lazy to do that today.
 

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