What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[swathdiver]

So after driving this pig around for a week or so ive come to the conclusion that rear has been on its way out for a long time. This hoe has had a clunk for as long as i can remember (putting it in gear, on the gas from a coast, and from a stop) and maybe its in my head but it feels a little better (peppier?) from a dead stop… i didn’t do u joints or anything else, took 1 rear out and swapped another in…. I dunno, i could be making it all up but…. Thats that.

You could have taken my old one! It's been on marketplace for months and nobody wants it.

 

[PG01]

You could have taken my old one! It's been on marketplace for months and nobody wants it.

But then id have to drive ALL THE WAY TO FLORIDA AND BACK…. lol…i am due though, haven’t have my Keys vacation in a few years …

 

[Grady_Wilson]

manual says to retract the adjuster then place the open end of the parking brake shoe over the axle flange and rotate it until the shoe has cleared the flange.
it does say to disconnect the cable from the actuator

Back in the 80's I had a '75 Camaro.
The heater core started leaking so I tracked down a service manual to see about swapping it out.
First step was 'Remove right front fender'

 

[Doubeleive]

Back in the 80's I had a '75 Camaro.
The heater core started leaking so I tracked down a service manual to see about swapping it out.
First step was 'Remove right front fender'

those cars were relatively easy to work on I could have the dash out in about 15 minutes, I used to go pull them 25 years ago and sell them on ebay when there were still some around. the dash, clusters, center console, tail lights, grills, t-tops were easy money. I could get $600 for a dash, almost as much for a center console if it was in good shape.
I would hit a yard almost daily.
metal prices spiked and they all got crushed, now there unobtanium

 

[Geotrash]

Made a ton of progress this weekend, prbly just 2 more hrs of work until I can try to start the car That said, I purchased my "GM OEM" lifter trays from Cam Motion. They were packaged like the below. Since the trays are notable a source of failure, should I be nervous about these or am I over-thinking? Anyone else received them packaged like this?

- They did have an 8-10 digit (idr) part # on the bottom, a circle with raised dots all around it, and a number (like a manufacturing mth date or something).

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The definitive test for lifter trays is whether or not they hold a lifter snugly, with no twisting possible, for the entire portion of the lifter that fits into the tray. They also should be able to keep the lifters from dropping out when you hold it with the lifters sticking down. If those do that, then they should suffice. The bad ones I got could not pass either test.

 

[tuckerrnr1]

Back in the 80's I had a '75 Camaro.
The heater core started leaking so I tracked down a service manual to see about swapping it out.
First step was 'Remove right front fender'

I believe my father wrote the manual. I mean in that he would take off a fender to change spark plugs.

 

[mikez71]

I wish we could pull a fender for ours, and not the whole dash..

 

[alpha_omega]

Can anyone foresee anything wrong with spraying some brake clean in the oil pan while it’s still installed (w/ the drain plug removed)? Obviously keeping clear of the gasket, but spraying in attempt to break up some of the crap at the bottom of the pan. I’d rather not drop the pan, since I have no reason to do so given my 2011 already had the TSB parts that the ‘07-10 needed.

 

[Geotrash]

Can anyone foresee anything wrong with spraying some brake clean in the oil pan while it’s still installed (w/ the drain plug removed)? Obviously keeping clear of the gasket, but spraying in attempt to break up some of the crap at the bottom of the pan. I’d rather not drop the pan, since I have no reason to do so given my 2011 already had the TSB parts that the ‘07-10 needed.

My only worry would be the potential to break the residue into chunks that promptly clog the oil pickup screen.

 

[Doubeleive]

Can anyone foresee anything wrong with spraying some brake clean in the oil pan while it’s still installed (w/ the drain plug removed)? Obviously keeping clear of the gasket, but spraying in attempt to break up some of the crap at the bottom of the pan. I’d rather not drop the pan, since I have no reason to do so given my 2011 already had the TSB parts that the ‘07-10 needed.

meh, I don't know maybe if you cleaned it out real good afterwards brake clean is a degreaser so you don't want any contamination
I would probably try a small vacuum hose set like these and try to use some cheap wet/dry vac that can be tossed if it messes it up and try to vacuum it out
these hoses are like 2ft and 1ft so long enough to reach inside

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[Runfor5]

They also should be able to keep the lifters from dropping out when you hold it with the lifters sticking down.

Appreciate this feedback! Especially since your purchase list is what I followed haha; only delta was me going w the "stage 1" Cam Motion cam vs. you had the "stage 2" in your big thread on here.
They did pass this upside-down test you're referring to. I feel like time will tell on the 1st part test you mention. Still thing their listing on the website is misleading...

Good news this afternoon - the truck ran!!! 17min total, 3min held at 2k rpm once up to operating temp. While no CEL I do have a cam error code 'permanent' of P0010 when using my scan tool, which I'll inform PCM of NC of.
- Draining oil now to get the assembly lube out.
- Fresh oil in again tomorrow [*I am running 5W-40 for this motor now from here on out w the cam] and I'll cont. to burp the coolant system.
- If all still good no leaks then, I will proceed with putting back in the front differential and take her for a drive.

For now, a few beers to celebrate the 1st start with no leaks

 

[alpha_omega]

My only worry would be the potential to break the residue into chunks that promptly clog the oil pickup screen.

And this is why I asked.

meh, I don't know maybe if you cleaned it out real good afterwards brake clean is a degreaser so you don't want any contamination

I didn’t think about either of those issues. I was thinking the brake clean would dry quickly, but didnt take into account it thinning that corner sludge, which could mix with the fresh oil and easily clog the screen. I’ll just clean it when I drop the pan.

I did forget to swap out that VVT solenoid actuator after having already installed the magnet and wiring harness. At least those are easier to remove than everything I installed before debating on dropping the oil pan.

 

[SpareParts]

Got this job done today on the friends 08,5.3 Yukon. New pan gasket and O ring. Took 4 1/2 hours.
It was not leaking bad but enough to be changed.

 

[Charlie207]

Why were GM engineers so dumb?

 

[Charlie207]

https://imgur.com/a/ZsjuLFS

 

[Charlie207]

The last post wouldn't let me add text for some reason....

Anyways, I blew off work at lunch, an started disassembling everything to get the stick manifolds and Y-pipe out. I had installed studs when I assembled/swapped the engine last summer, so it was a breeze to disconnect those.

The manifold to Y-pipe nuts were a nightmare. I got two out on the driver's side, but the third was stripped. I grabbed a sawzall and lopped that nut off.

The only one of the passenger nuts would come off, but I was able to pull out the Y-pipe with the passenger manifold attached, so that was a pleasant surprise.

Header install was pretty non-evenful, except for the two thunderstorms that cost me a couple hours of daylight. I still have fender liners to install and then go for a drive to data-log for BBP.

I have a spare muffler to swap in if this experiment proves too have too much mullet.

 

[Sparksalot]

https://imgur.com/a/ZsjuLFS

Head out on the highway…

 

[Charlie207]

Head out on the highway…

Soon

 

[PG01]

Head out on the highway…

Lookin fir adventure…

 

[Fless]

Lookin fir adventure…

and whatever comes our way...