What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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the_tool_man

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What a handy little set, are you missing pieces or was that for optional bits?
It came that way. I ordered it from McMaster Carr back in the 1990's. I don't think they sell it anymore. The manufacturer is Wadsworth. I found them for sale from other sites. The price has more than doubled since I bought mine. And the sets I see listed have more bits in them. For example, mine didn't come with Torx bits. Luckily the Torx screw in the column wasn't very tight, so I was able to use a hex bit on it. Subsequent to this occasion, I ordered Torx bits directly from Wadsworth to complete my set.
 

alpha_omega

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By "The new ones you can damn near bend by hand," I take it you mean nickel-copper/NiCopp/Cunifer. I started using it for every hard line about five years ago, and it's a pleasure to work with. Easy to fabricate and easy on the tooling.
You’re absolutely right. Technically not “new”, but newer than what some of us grew up pissing around with.
 

the_tool_man

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I thought there was a relatively cost affective way to upgrade to the 4-piston front calipers from the T1XX SUVs/Trucks? Maybe worth looking into.

Have you considered upgrading to stainless steel brake lines? Even with stock calipers they have a noticeable impact on increased pedal feel and response.

Personally, I would stay away from drilled rotors for a DD street vehicle. You end up with hairline cracks spider webbing from the drilled holes. I would stick with slotted, dimpled, or plain rotors.

I second the braided SS brake lines. I put those on my Yukon and noticed a difference.

I, too, use drilled rotors. I started buying them from Brake Performance back when I had my Cobra. Back then, they advertised that their rotors were cryo-treated to prevent warping. Nowadays, they don't say that. But I've been using theirs on all of my vehicles. I've never had a drilled rotor crack. From the research I've done, it seems that if the holes aren't properly deburred/countersunk, they can form a stress riser that leads to cracking. Obviously extreme heat cycling, such as racing, could do it, too. But for a street driven vehicle, they're fine if properly done.
 

89Suburban

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You can program any of the factory or aftermarket fobs without a programmer for this platform. I personally love the look and feel of the 2015 style that I was using on 3 of my trucks over the stock style for their respectable years (2002 and 2008)and since I have to replace the one I lost, I figured since they came out with the 2020 style, I’d upgrade for a few more bucks. I’m also one of those guys who does a lot of modifications to my vehicles, I never leave them stock.

How to do program it? I would love to replace mine, it looks like crap.


IMG_7954.JPG
 

tuckerrnr1

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Do you have one of these? The reviews are not too inspiring.

This is the company that made the ones that I purchased. I just swapped the guts into the new shell. I had a flat titanium key ring that would eat the top of the fob.

How many buttons on yours? I can see if I still have some somewhere, I am bad about getting rid of things I don't need.
 

89Suburban

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This is the company that made the ones that I purchased. I just swapped the guts into the new shell. I had a flat titanium key ring that would eat the top of the fob.

How many buttons on yours? I can see if I still have some somewhere, I am bad about getting rid of things I don't need.
Four
 

Grady_Wilson

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I second the braided SS brake lines. I put those on my Yukon and noticed a difference.

I, too, use drilled rotors. I started buying them from Brake Performance back when I had my Cobra. Back then, they advertised that their rotors were cryo-treated to prevent warping. Nowadays, they don't say that. But I've been using theirs on all of my vehicles. I've never had a drilled rotor crack. From the research I've done, it seems that if the holes aren't properly deburred/countersunk, they can form a stress riser that leads to cracking. Obviously extreme heat cycling, such as racing, could do it, too. But for a street driven vehicle, they're fine if properly done.
I installed stainless braided lines on my Altima and it made a huge difference in pedal feel.
But I have not done so on any car with antilock brakes because when the antilock kicks in it just pulses.
I have been using R1 Concepts rotor, both slotted, drilled, both or plain, on cars for over 20 years and they have been great.
Have a set of slotted/drilled on my Altima with about 240k miles on them and they have never had any issues.
 

Runfor5

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Haven't been on here in awhile (perhaps a good thing!) but unfortunately, I believe the truck has experienced a collapsed lifter or similiar. Oil was somewhat glittery and the car has a loud 'squealing' type noise. In driving the 2 days before draining oil, the car was super sluggish to take off, would upshift very early keeping revs down, and stayed in V8 mode at all times.

In anticipation of this job (and Geotrash's 10/10 write-up) I have assembled a parts list I might share later for the groups feedback. I am comitting to the full AFM/DoD/VVT delete. For now, I started with the big purchase and picked up the Cam Motion Stage 1 truck cam - "Drop-in" option | 5150 Steel, 3-bolt cam.


- I didn't go with the Stage 2 offering as I don't plan to touch the valve springs, but I might do the rocker trunnion upgrade + 7.400" pushrods.

My total parts list cost at this time is just under $2,600. Not cheap but significantly less than the EJ205 motor I'm re-building following a spun bearing; yes when it rains it pours in terms of bad timing of car-related issues right now it seems LOL.
 

Stingray1976

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I dedicated a lot of time to some mods on my Tahoe this weekend. I replaced my low beam halogen lights with one of HID Guy's kits, plasti dipped my chrome surround on my grille, tried to repaint my front bowtie (FAIL!), replaced my interior lights with LEDs, installed my holster under my steering column, and replaced a seatbelt latch on the driver's seat. Now I'm waiting on my rear door actuators to come in as well as the billet bowties I ordered. As soon as they get here I'll get to installing them too. Long weekend but I got it done. What did you do to your Tahoe/Yukon?
Installed weathertech front hood protector and side window deflectors on my new 2025 LT. It all looks great. Splash guards for the wheels are next I think.
 

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