What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Grady_Wilson

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Heat, heat, and heat. That area is a rust-trap for the bolt threads that point up. I soaked them in so much PB Blaster, and one of them still broke. It had probably been fused for years.

At least you'll have good practice drilling....

Actually, stock up on quality left-hand drill bits now.
Antique car guys all swear by a 1 to 1 mixture of ATF and acetone to break rusted bolts loose.
The consensus is it works far better than PB Blaster.
Also, the crayon method has good reviews as well.
 

Grady_Wilson

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Grady_Wilson

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On reflection, does anyone know the torque spec. for the inboard swaybar clamps off the top of their head. It looks like I had them too tight.

EDIT: Oh yeah... Should be 37 ft-lb on the shells, and 17 ft-lb on the end links. I bet I had 59 ugga-duggas on those.
Back when dinosaurs roamed the earth, front sway bar bushings were tightened until the rubber squished out just even with the washers top and bottom.
But, I'm an old fart, so your mileage may vary.
 

Grady_Wilson

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if you have some money burning a hole in your pocket these factory printed manuals just dropped on ebay
Nice find, I will order one and see if I can not renew my AllData sub.
 

Doubeleive

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Nice find, I will order one and see if I can not renew my AllData sub.
those books are far too pricey for me, I already have the .pdf cd version which is functional but you have to search it with keywords, the .pdf hacked ones are not hyperlinked, so when it tells you see "setting the guide pin" or something you have to go find it and it's like 15,000 pages so.. lol.
then I have Chilton hardback which was probably a library book at some point, not as in depth but it comes in handy sometimes.
 

Geotrash

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Speaking of front end work. Got one new lower control arm on the 2012 this afternoon.

IMG_3240.jpeg
 

Charlie207

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I really need to do my fronts, just haven't shelled out the $1k in parts to get it done.
Did the rears about a month a half ago and it made a big difference as one air bag had developed a very slow leak.

I rented two spring kits from AutoZone, for a total of four clamps, but only used three on the coil. That seemed much more controllable than just two.

I wish they still rented the big single-piece tool. When I did my Armada coils it was so much easier dealing with a single tool that didn't shift around.

1747398541072.png


I also just want to reiterate how stupid GM truck upper strut mount design, with the shock shaft nut recessed down inside the mount so far that it's a huge PITA to screw it off/on. Why are people allowed to be that dumb?
 

89Suburban

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Today I replaced the tie rods, which had given up after just under 12,000 miles. I also re-measured my axles with my new, inexpensive wheel alignment device. This has significantly improved my truck's handling. It now steers as lightly as a Mazda MX-5 and as precisely as a McLaren... :Big Laugh:


Love your toys. Jealous. Thanks for sharing.
 

nonickatall

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Love your toys. Jealous. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you...:)

The only alternative for good tools is; more good tools.. :Big Laugh:

Today I welded a holder for a transmission fix...

I will repair my first 4L60E...

I hope NickTransmissions like Germans...;)
 

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Geotrash

Dave
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Thank you...:)

The only alternative for good tools is; more good tools.. :Big Laugh:

Today I welded a holder for a transmission fix...

I will repair my first 4L60E...

I hope NickTransmissions like Germans...;)
I don't know about the 4L60E, but the 6L80 is based on a German design (ZF), and we know Nick likes those!
 

j91z28d1

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Antique car guys all swear by a 1 to 1 mixture of ATF and acetone to break rusted bolts loose.
The consensus is it works far better than PB Blaster.
Also, the crayon method has good reviews as well.


I feel like I've seen that debunked a few times. I believe the acetone is supposed to make atf super thin and then evaporate.

I tend to agree with that south main auto guy, it's all just to make you feel better. I don't think any of it has actually helped me break a bolt loose, but it does 100% help once you get it to break loose to not gaul up the threads the rest of the way out. but anything thing will help with that. I once had a Isuzu exhaust bolt that was on the edge of snapping off, would only budge a tiny bit either way before locking up. soft metric crap bolt too, tried everything in the cabinet and it didn't help. we had at least 6 different brands haha. in the end hours later I got annoyed, soaked it down with brake cleaner and it moved. had to keep spaying it since it drys so fast.


tried the same brake clean a few times since and never made a difference. something about that one rusty bolt I guess.
 

nonickatall

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Where did you get your hands on that aligner setup?

@NickTransmissions
That was extreme luck. The system used to be property of my neighbor. We are good friends and help each other often. He bought that system used year's ago, but didn't use it much.
He has a much smaller shop than me, and permanent space problems so he asked me if I want to have the system for free. And he could use it, if he needs to.

So the system came exact in that moment, when I had to replace my tie rods...

Sometimes you need not only a truck, you also need some luck...
Even if it's luck, to own a truck...
:Big Laugh:
 

nonickatall

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I feel like I've seen that debunked a few times. I believe the acetone is supposed to make atf super thin and then evaporate.

I tend to agree with that south main auto guy, it's all just to make you feel better. I don't think any of it has actually helped me break a bolt loose, but it does 100% help once you get it to break loose to not gaul up the threads the rest of the way out. but anything thing will help with that. I once had a Isuzu exhaust bolt that was on the edge of snapping off, would only budge a tiny bit either way before locking up. soft metric crap bolt too, tried everything in the cabinet and it didn't help. we had at least 6 different brands haha. in the end hours later I got annoyed, soaked it down with brake cleaner and it moved. had to keep spaying it since it drys so fast.


tried the same brake clean a few times since and never made a difference. something about that one rusty bolt I guess.
My experience is:
The only things that really works to remove rusted bolts is:
Heat
Impact wrench
Sensitive applied force
Patience
Feeling for the material

Or

Drill

All the oil and Magic Fluids help not very much...
 

Jdsfx1

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Shortened my driveshaft to match my shortened frame. Time will tell if it needs re-balancing. I used 1-1/2 angle tacked to the shaft prior to cutting. This maintains u-joint clocking and helps align for welding. I put another piece of angle over the cut pieces and clamped it for the weld.

IMG_4160.jpeg
IMG_4168.jpeg
IMG_4169.jpeg
IMG_4172.jpeg
 

Charlie207

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Didn't Project Farm test that homebrew mixture in one or more comparisons? It never did that well.
I feel like I've seen that debunked a few times. I believe the acetone is supposed to make atf super thin and then evaporate.

I tend to agree with that south main auto guy, it's all just to make you feel better. I don't think any of it has actually helped me break a bolt loose, but it does 100% help once you get it to break loose to not gaul up the threads the rest of the way out. but anything thing will help with that. I once had a Isuzu exhaust bolt that was on the edge of snapping off, would only budge a tiny bit either way before locking up. soft metric crap bolt too, tried everything in the cabinet and it didn't help. we had at least 6 different brands haha. in the end hours later I got annoyed, soaked it down with brake cleaner and it moved. had to keep spaying it since it drys so fast.


tried the same brake clean a few times since and never made a difference. something about that one rusty bolt I guess.
 

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