What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[CMoore711]

ok, i think this deserves further explanation because simply adjusting the control arm sensors is not going to change the left/right height, that will only change how the shock reacts to a bump or it might affect how much psi is applied overall not left/right

I totally understand this, I think cmoore is leaving out some details in whatever he did, as adjusting the rod will not correct "lean" alone
I believe the lean is most noticeable in the front driver area so a extra 1/4" spacer in the front left would likely correct it for the most part

First off I know for a fact @Doubeleive and @Rocket Man are super familiar with our truck platform.

Also, I’m in agreement with the way the system works as you guys describe it.

My experience is with my ‘15 Yukon XL Denali when I lowered it…. Magnetic ride control and rear auto ride.

So stock that rear driver side was 37.5” ground to fender and rear passenger side was 37” ground to fender.
I lowered the vehicle 2/3” and installed the rear Belltech 3”-4” kit and used the 1” spacer. Driver side was then 34.625” and passenger rear was 34.25”. At this height both rear sensor rods were the same 3” length end-to-end. I then did the 10-24 machine screw as ride height sensor rod and extended the passenger side only by 1/8” so new ride height sensor rod was 3-1/8” end to end on passenger side only. The result was the both rear passenger and driver side landed at about 34.5” +/- 1/8”.

It would make sense if the shorter rod was “ignored”, but I swear this leveled out my rear. So that now the rear passenger where to driver ride height closer to being the same within 1/8” instead of being off 1/2” like factory.

Maybe the rear drop kit had more to do with it?

 

[Charlie207]

Swapped out one upper control arm, but had to leave the other for tomorrow, because date night.

Also have the tie rods to replace, but I'll schedule an alignment before either commit to doing those.

 

[Doubeleive]

Swapped out one upper control arm, but had to leave the other for tomorrow, because date night.

Also have the tie rods to replace, but I'll schedule an alignment before either commit to doing those.

View attachment 453627

Fun times! disconnecting the sway bar should make it easier

 

[Rocket Man]

First off I know for a fact @Doubeleive and @Rocket Man are super familiar with our truck platform.

Also, I’m in agreement with the way the system works as you guys describe it.

My experience is with my ‘15 Yukon XL Denali when I lowered it…. Magnetic ride control and rear auto ride.

So stock that rear driver side was 37.5” ground to fender and rear passenger side was 37” ground to fender.
I lowered the vehicle 2/3” and installed the rear Belltech 3”-4” kit and used the 1” spacer. Driver side was then 34.625” and passenger rear was 34.25”. At this height both rear sensor rods were the same 3” length end-to-end. I then did the 10-24 machine screw as ride height sensor rod and extended the passenger side only by 1/8” so new ride height sensor rod was 3-1/8” end to end on passenger side only. The result was the both rear passenger and driver side landed at about 34.5” +/- 1/8”.

It would make sense if the shorter rod was “ignored”, but I swear this leveled out my rear. So that now the rear passenger where to driver ride height closer to being the same within 1/8” instead of being off 1/2” like factory.

Maybe the rear drop kit had more to do with it?

Well it’s not the air in the shocks that did it. It’s impossible. Side to side the air pressure is exactly equal, has to be with the air lines meeting at a T near the compressor. It was still probably settling after the drop. Here is a pic of the T. The white line goes to the compressor, the other ends are where the two lines from the shocks connect. You see, equal pressure to each shock. No way can one shock lift more than the other. The system in my bagged Silverado is fully capable of lifting each corner independently however. I plumbed it, I kinda know what I’m talking about.

 

[Rocket Man]

Pic of manifold and plumbing necessary to adjust each

corner independently @CMoore711

 

[Grady_Wilson]

Swapped out one upper control arm, but had to leave the other for tomorrow, because date night.

Also have the tie rods to replace, but I'll schedule an alignment before either commit to doing those.

View attachment 453627

Great job, if I'm going in that deep, I am replacing the axle while I'm in there.
No way I would want to do that again, any time soon.

 

[Doubeleive]

The airlift stuff seems to be decent, the Silverado isn't lowered anymore but I changed the bags for a lift instead of a drop, it could be used with a tank and manifold but would take a different system to have it control each wheel, still handy when needed

 

[Sir_Hiro]

Well it’s not the air in the shocks that did it. It’s impossible. Side to side the air pressure is exactly equal, has to be with the air lines meeting at a T near the compressor. It was still probably settling after the drop. Here is a pic of the T. The white line goes to the compressor, the other ends are where the two lines from the shocks connect. You see, equal pressure to each shock. No way can one shock lift more than the other. The system in my bagged Silverado is fully capable of lifting each corner independently however. I plumbed it, I kinda know what I’m talking about. View attachment 453646

I see gap between door and ground. You need to Channel the body.

 

[Charlie207]

The volume on this unit was VERY loud. Radio reception was good compared to the last one I tried. I didn't like the setup of the operating system of the wireless carplay. You could not switch from Spotify to Radio and back it would start to cut out and act stupid. The google maps and directions looked very nice.

There was a Amazon review that said you had to unlock the headunit setting (with code 000000) and turn down the source volume from 100 to 50, and then it would be more balanced with the vehicle volume.

 

[Charlie207]

Fun times! disconnecting the sway bar should make it easier

I was going for lazy, and didn't even need to remove the strut, even though I removed all the nuts/bolts. Soaking everything in PB Blaster for a few days prior was probably a good idea. You just hold the camber plates against the frame, and tap the bolts out. Luckily mine weren't rusted/fused together.

If you lift both front wheels off the ground you can leave the end-links connected. I had a short prybar, and that was enough to manipulate everything back together.

 

[Charlie207]

Great job, if I'm going in that deep, I am replacing the axle while I'm in there.
No way I would want to do that again, any time soon.

I've gotten really fast at blowing the front-end apart. The most annoying part is actually having to deal with how far I have to drag my jack & jack stands out from the walk-out basement > around the house > up the hill > over to the driveway. And, also when I realize that I needed a 7/8" wrench and all I have is metric stuff... plus every other time I forget a tool in the basement.

Once the ground dries out I just drive out back and load up the Yukon at the basement doors, but it's still mud-season.

 

[Rocket Man]

I see gap between door and ground. You need to Channel the body.

That’s because the bags had 45-50 PSI, pretty much at ride height. Aired out, the pinch welds lay on the ground. It has a stock floor body drop, the frame is custom built from 2 x 3 tube steel. No need to channel the body- that would be the easy way and look bad on the interior.

 

[89Suburban]

There was a Amazon review that said you had to unlock the headunit setting (with code 000000) and turn down the source volume from 100 to 50, and then it would be more balanced with the vehicle volume.

Maybe you have better luck than me, I didn't have the patience. Another irk was the lack of instructions and having to search reviews and youtube for help with this unit.

 

[Doubeleive]

I was going for lazy, and didn't even need to remove the strut, even though I removed all the nuts/bolts. Soaking everything in PB Blaster for a few days prior was probably a good idea. You just hold the camber plates against the frame, and tap the bolts out. Luckily mine weren't rusted/fused together.

If you lift both front wheels off the ground you can leave the end-links connected. I had a short prybar, and that was enough to manipulate everything back together.

when I did mine I unbolted the bottom of the strut and loosened the upper bolts so I could move it enough to get the upper control arm bolts out, otherwise the springs were blocking them and I was doing the lower arms as well so it all had to be unbolted.

 

[Charlie207]

when I did mine I unbolted the bottom of the strut and loosened the upper bolts so I could move it enough to get the upper control arm bolts out, otherwise the springs were blocking them and I was doing the lower arms as well so it all had to be unbolted.

I watched some YT video where the guy left the shocks in, so I just copied him. As long as the camber plates aren't rusted to the bolts, you can work the bolts free after rotating the camber plates about 180* to give wiggle room against the coil. I'll try to take some pics if I have time at lunch to do the drinker's side.

 

[NASTY GM]

Why did you remove the rear axles? In order to change the orientation of the brake backing plates because you had clearance issues? Mine are mounted forward on the rear brakes. I have a 3 link in the rear that keeps things centered. My rear end is narrowed enough to tuck 26 x 12 intros with 10” lips, no clearance issues.

Looks like you have 14" rears? When I had 14" it wasn't a problem. When I switched to 16" they had to be mounted on the rear side.
Oh, and nice truck

 

[Doubeleive]

I watched some YT video where the guy left the shocks in, so I just copied him. As long as the camber plates aren't rusted to the bolts, you can work the bolts free after rotating the camber plates about 180* to give wiggle room against the coil. I'll try to take some pics if I have time at lunch to do the drinker's side.

I didn't want to fight it more than I had to, loosening the upper bolts was easy enough to allow me some wiggle room

 

[Geotrash]

There was a Amazon review that said you had to unlock the headunit setting (with code 000000) and turn down the source volume from 100 to 50, and then it would be more balanced with the vehicle volume.

Yep, that sounds like what I had to do with mine.

 

[Charlie207]

I didn't want to fight it more than I had to, loosening the upper bolts was easy enough to allow me some wiggle room

Actually, this is helpful, because it'll remind me to remove the swaybar frame mounts, and grease those bushings up. I'm hoping that's the squeaky noise culprit. It's driving me insane with the windows down. Sounds like a high-pitched mouse "eeep eeep" noise.

 

[Geotrash]

Actually, this is helpful, because it'll remind me to remove the swaybar frame mounts, and grease those bushings up. I'm hoping that's the squeaky noise culprit. It's driving me insane with the windows down. Sounds like a high-pitched mouse "eeep eeep" noise.

I loosened the upper bolts when I did mine too. Made the job much easier.

For those with autoride struts reading this, remember to hit the electrical connector on top of them with electrical contact cleaner before reassembly (assuming you have them), or you'll get a suspension code. I've seen it happen to a few people here.