Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"

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Rocket Man

Rocket Man

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Also got the Blackstone oil analysis.They say it looks great, all within averages and even though the oil life monitor stated it was time to change it, it showed no need according to Blackstone. All in all I’m happy with it. I am using a Range device to keep it in V8 mode but the hardware is still in it. Oil pressure at an idle is 40 and it runs about 50-60 at higher RPM’s which I feel is great for this generation and especially good at 177,*** miles.
 

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Rocket Man

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Finally got a break in the weather today so I installed the new rotors and pads. The lowering springs and shock relocators were supposed to be delivered yesterday via FedEx and then it was changed to today
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and now they say “weather delay” even though they’re in town and the weather is nice. So maybe tomorrow? Stupid FedEx is the worst. I have the bolts and spacers for the front to remount the struts to under the control arm for a 2” front drop. The springs are for a 4” rear drop. I pulled the rear ride height sensor rods off to modify.
 
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Did the drop today, and so far it’s a 2/3 not a 2/4 but the rear is still settling I believe. Plus I need to do a ALC trim set with the Tech 2. I shortened the rear ride height rods from 4” to 3” on a guess and I might have to tinker with them. The compressor came on but didn’t lift it but I had started it up while the suspension was hanging so the shocks might have had extra air in them. It should have exhausted any extra on the test drive though. Turns out the front LCA’s are aluminum so I didn’t need the spacers I bought. Just flipping the struts to under them gave me a near perfect 2” front drop. I have a tiny bit of rubbing on the LF on sharp right hand turns due to an inner fender liner hanging a bit but otherwise the test ride was great, the EBay springs ride nice. It cost a whopping $230 in parts. The yard shot is before.
 

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89Suburban

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At full droop in the rear do the new springs sit snug in the perches? They don’t wobble around do they?

Bump stops aren’t bottoming out?
 
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At full droop in the rear do the new springs sit snug in the perches? They don’t wobble around do they?

Bump stops aren’t bottoming out?
With the suspension hanging, the rear springs are just touching the top of the perches, they don’t move unless I pry them a little which I did to center them. They’re not as tight as the originals were in the same state. I removed the bump stops, not sure what I’ll do to add some shorter ones, maybe cut some stock ones down. These were rotted at the tops where they are held in. I might also get some new shorter end links all the way around. The sway bars aren’t parallel to the ground now. If I do that, the rear probably wont hang as far down when at full droop so the springs will be tighter.
 

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Did the drop today, and so far it’s a 2/3 not a 2/4 but the rear is still settling I believe. Plus I need to do a ALC trim set with the Tech 2. I shortened the rear ride height rods from 4” to 3” on a guess and I might have to tinker with them. The compressor came on but didn’t lift it but I had started it up while the suspension was hanging so the shocks might have had extra air in them. It should have exhausted any extra on the test drive though. Turns out the front LCA’s are aluminum so I didn’t need the spacers I bought. Just flipping the struts to under them gave me a near perfect 2” front drop. I have a tiny bit of rubbing on the LF on sharp right hand turns due to an inner fender liner hanging a bit but otherwise the test ride was great, the EBay springs ride nice. It cost a whopping $230 in parts. The yard shot is before.
Looks great!!
 

89Suburban

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With the suspension hanging, the rear springs are just touching the top of the perches, they don’t move unless I pry them a little which I did to center them. They’re not as tight as the originals were in the same state. I removed the bump stops, not sure what I’ll do to add some shorter ones, maybe cut some stock ones down. These were rotted at the tops where they are held in. I might also get some new shorter end links all the way around. The sway bars aren’t parallel to the ground now. If I do that, the rear probably wont hang as far down when at full droop so the springs will be tighter.


This company offers multiple size links. I took the part number from their website and bought from their store on Amazon. They are fairly robust for the price and leveled my front bar out nicely. For the rear I got the DMJ offset links kit.


 
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Yes, I used their stuff on my 02. I actually have their entire catalog in PDF form. :happy107:
This company offers multiple size links. I took the part number from their website and bought from their store on Amazon. They are fairly robust for the price and leveled my front bar out nicely. For the rear I got the DMJ offset links kit.


 
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It looked like DJM was my only option for shortened rear end links with a price of about $100 shipped until I came across a thread on a forum where a member found out that 1999 Suburban ones he found in a junk yard were close in length to the ones made by DJM and worked perfect for his 4” drop on a 2007 Tahoe. Aha I thought until I looked up the number 19561007 and found out they’re not longer available anywhere. But then I searched for aftermarket ones for a 99 suburban and found some Moog ones that fit. There’s no measurements online so I ordered from Amazon and I’ll measure them when they arrive to be sure they will work. They cost me about $36 delivered, perfect for this budget build. Fingers crossed. I do not need to move the sway bar over so I see no need for the offset that the DJM’s have.
 
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Figured out how to install the hitch cover. There’s 2 styles depending on your bumper. Mine is the more rounded type that requires a bracket to be added at the top. Just waiting on paint from automotive touch up.
 

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The Moog end links for the rear came in but they’re 2” too short. Whoever said they would work in that thread I read was wrong unless they had a 7” rear drop. Returned to Amazon and I ordered the DJM ones. They have the market for these. Nobody else makes the right length, only longer ones for lifts. :mad:
 
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Out of surgery Tuesday, didn’t have to wear a catheter home this time. Today I installed the DJM rear end links and took it for a test drive. I still have a bit of tire rub on the driver side on heavy bumps. It’s the fender liner; I heated it up and massaged it but I might have to cut some out. The tires are a bit big, 275/50-20. Almost done with suspension work.
Edit: they’re 275/55-20’s.
 
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Not much happening with the trucks lately. Been busy with some outdoor backyard stuff. Some of my 6’ cedar fence rotted off at the concrete so I invented a way to use my floor jack, chain, and either concrete anchor drilled into the plug or a 12” long 1/2” lag bolt that I drilled into the rotten cut-off posts in order to lift the whole plugs of concrete out without digging and making a huge hole. Then I just had to use a post hole digger to make the holes a bit bigger for strength and reset the new posts in exactly the same location so the rest of the fence went right back the way it came apart. I did 11 posts.
 

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I had great news on the cancer as to what they found when they did that last surgery. Seems the radiation should finish it off and the route that I chose with the request for tri-modal therapy was a good choice. This is the second week of 4 for radiation. Mondays are a *****, I do chemo in the morning and then radiation. Between everything it’s a full 8 hours on-site. Good thing my sister likes to take me and then hang out with me. It makes it seem more normal. Tuesday-Friday is radiation only and it’s only a 15- minute thing if all goes well. The drive is 30-45 minutes each way though. I just go by myself on those days. None of the treatments have had any ill effects on me yet. 2 1/2 weeks to go!
 

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Not much happening with the trucks lately. Been busy with some outdoor backyard stuff. Some of my 6’ cedar fence rotted off at the concrete so I invented a way to use my floor jack, chain, and either concrete anchor drilled into the plug or a 12” long 1/2” lag bolt that I drilled into the rotten cut-off posts in order to lift the whole plugs of concrete out without digging and making a huge hole. Then I just had to use a post hole digger to make the holes a bit bigger for strength and reset the new posts in exactly the same location so the rest of the fence went right back the way it came apart. I did 11 posts.

That right there is a lot of work, but you've found a good way to make it easier! BTDT but not that way....
 

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