2011 Chevy Tahoe overhaul needed?

[The Grey Beast]

Hi to all. I took my Tahoe to the oil stop today and got some disturbing news. Metal shavings were found on the magnetized metal transfer case plug. I was told it was large amount. They also stated my engine seals are weeping perhaps leaking. I had 3k miles on last oil change and half a quart low of oil. The shavings from the transfer case are another story. What would be your next move. The engine has 179k miles runs great. I last had the service done 32k miles ago. With Chevy doing multiple inspections. I’m not sure if Chevy or oil stop has checked it before.

I’m looking to price out and overhaul of the engine. Would you recommend a light end or a top end overhaul? Would you start with a new refurbished block engine or use the old engine? I want to keep the Tahoe but I don’t want to spend money on a car that’s not worth the money. I have references for mechanic's my guess would be to take the Tahoe into a mechanic and have them look it over. Any suggestions would be great.

Thank you.

Ken

 

[The Grey Beast]

 

[tom3]

For sure I'd change that Xfer case lube, maybe two quick changes to get it cleaned out. On the engine with that mileage I'd change the oil with some of the "High Mileage" formulated oil before going all out on the overhaul.

 

[Foggy]

Change your fluids .... Keep Driving it !!!!

 

[The Grey Beast]

Tom3 and Foggy thank you.. I’m going to take it to a reputable mechanic and see what they think. However I like both of your advice. Much appreciated.

Ken

 

[15burban]

I agree with the above. A half quart in 3k miles is great compared to a lot of guys in newer lesser mileage vehicles getting the run around from "insert brand name here" when they're going through a quart ever 1k and the warranty/manufacturer says that's normal.

And if you didn't change the oil last time did you check it right after and make sure they even filled it up to the top mark?

 

[donjetman]

Hi to all. I took my Tahoe to the oil stop today and got some disturbing news. Metal shavings were found on the magnetized metal transfer case plug. I was told it was large amount. They also stated my engine seals are weeping perhaps leaking. I had 3k miles on last oil change and half a quart low of oil. The shavings from the transfer case are another story. What would be your next move. The engine has 179k miles runs great. I last had the service done 32k miles ago. With Chevy doing multiple inspections. I’m not sure if Chevy or oil stop has checked it before.

I’m looking to price out and overhaul of the engine. Would you recommend a light end or a top end overhaul? Would you start with a new refurbished block engine or use the old engine? I want to keep the Tahoe but I don’t want to spend money on a car that’s not worth the money. I have references for mechanic's my guess would be to take the Tahoe into a mechanic and have them look it over. Any suggestions would be great.

Thank you.

Ken

Has your vehicle had GM Technical Service bulletin # 10-06-01-008M done on it?
https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63...il+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf
If not? do it then send it but you are late to the game.
also
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...tor-oil-consumption-tsb-10-60-10-008m.108493/
and
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/valve-cover-change-cleanup.108604/
and
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-job-pan-etc-07-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/

 

[Marky Dissod]

... looking to price out and overhaul of the engine. Would you recommend a light end or a top end overhaul?
Would you start with a new refurbished block engine or use the old engine?
I want to keep the Tahoe, but I don’t want to spend money on a car that’s not worth the money.

Not hard to take the valvecovers off to see if anything gets your attention.
Removing any other stuff is much more labor intensive, but may be needed if the valvecover inspection
or the next oil change does not look good. If the engine is still good, use it up.
Would not go so far as to say 'run it into the ground', 'cause that might damage other things,
but if the engine is still pleasantly serviceable, by all means, keep enjoying it.

If/When the day comes to replace the engine ...
Unless you find an entire vehicle in very good shape, for UNDER the price of a used 6.0L in very good shape,
I'd upgrade to a 6.0L (unless the rest of the vehicle is in very bad shape).

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I'm in general agreement with the above comments. I'd get another oil change within 1000 miles and see if there is additional presence of metal. If there is, I'd get a sample of oil and the metal debris and send it to Blackstone Labs for analysis. They might be able to advise you on where the metal is coming from, based on its specs. I'd also start a saving fund specifically for addressing this issue, if and when it becomes a major issue. As stated above, you may choose to replace parts on the truck, or purchase another truck, and if you have a savings fund, you will be in a better position to go either way.

In the meantime, just keep on truck'n.

 

[The Grey Beast]

Thank you all. Hey so this is going to tell you how uneducated I am. The transfer case I know has its own fluid and that’s where the metal shavings came from. I was not told that it came from the engine oil itself. I’ve leaned that the oils from the engine is separate from the transfer case. The transfer case is for power distribution for the 4x4. If my information is correct or needs adding pleas feel free to do so.

Do you recommend stopping the AFM on my 2011 Tahoe. I’ve alway thought that would be the big worry for my used Tahoe but it’s working fine.

Thank you

Ken

 

[Marky Dissod]

Do you recommend stopping the AFM on my 2011 Tahoe? I’ve always thought that would be the big worry for my used Tahoe but it’s working fine.

YES (for a decade, give or take. Please pass it on, be better than those who failed to warn you previously).
It works fine, for a while, til it doesn't. Eventually,
*the part-time cylinder bores / rings wear worse than the full-time cylinders, increasing oil consumption and lowering MpGs even with V4 mode in working order
*the two-mode lifters are not as durable / long lived as the simpler lifters; the two-mode lifters tend to fail sooner than the simpler ones -
when they fail, it's not like you still have a V4 that still works, you have an engine that needs fixing or replacing
*V4 mode is also responsible for shortening the life of the torque converter clutch. When the TCC fails, it usually takes out the entire 6L80 with it.

Even if you use the best oil filtration, the best motor oil, and change them 2x as often as GM recommends,
and you put off the two-mode lifter failure til you get rid of the vehicle, your TCC is still gonna fail sooner.

TLDR: If you can't afford to physically delete the V4 mode hardware, at least disable it at your first opportunity.

 

[rdezs]

Oil seals that are seeping isn't much to worry about. When it leaves a puddle under the vehicle, then you can worry. I'd recommend using one of the full synthetic motor oils that stay high mileage on the label. Such as Valvoline or mobile one both have a version. They contain seal conditioners that helps soften seals that have become hard with age.... And do help minor seeping.

The AFM.... It's never too late to turn it off. You can buy a device and plug it into the diagnostic port below your steering wheel and to the left..... Or you can buy a programmer such as the Diablo sport predator and actually turn it off in the ECM..... Ideally you would turn it off in the ECM, and do a full physical delete of the components. Cost-effective if you work on your own vehicles, probably expensive to have somebody do it for you. If that's your situation, get the one that just plugs into the diagnostic port.

Transfer case seems to be the main concern with metal shavings. I'd suggest changing the fluid again in a couple weeks, but find a different service provider. See what they say after they drain it. And as usual, be wary of expensive recommendations to fix something. Always get a second opinion.

 

[Fless]

Next time the transfer case is drained have them provide you with a pic of the drain plug before anything is wiped clean.

 

[j91z28d1]

limit slip additive in the front and rear differential?

I wouldn't put a lot stock in what that place says.

for reference, this was my transfer case drain plug when I got mine at 135k fluid was pretty black. it's now 166k and never shown any problem. I did change the fluid a 2nd time and there was no metal and fluid was clean.

if it's not worst than this and looks good the next time 5 - 10k later. I wooldnt worry about it until you see signs of failure

 

[The Grey Beast]

Thank you all. Very good posts. I just ordered the Diablo and it should arrive 21 Feb. just put a new set of Toyo Tires Open country AT III’s look great. Breaks are next have not done them since purchased used May 23. Thank you all for the distinct and accurate information. When I end up doing more things on the Tahoe I post the results.

Thank you.

Ken

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@The Grey Beast Yes the transfer case is separate from the engine and it doesn’t sound like you are leaking much engine oil either.

If the Tahoe still moves down the road I don’t see a problem, keep the fluids clean until something breaks and then fix it but no point in spending money if the thing still drives down the road.

 

[ivin74]

They also stated my engine seals are weeping perhaps leaking. I had 3k miles on last oil change and half a quart low of oil. What would be your next move. The engine has 179k miles runs great.

I’m looking to price out and overhaul of the engine.

These engines are known for the seals to go out after 120k miles. Did the shop tell you what seals are leaking?

Most common failures
Valve cover gasket
Rear main seal
Valley cover gaskets
Oil pan gasket
Oil cooler gasket

I have seen these LS engines go past 300k miles with no overhauls. I suggest replace those seals and you are good for another 120k miles.

I would not be to worried about the oil consumption. Like others stated verify what valve cover you have. Replace it if it's not the newest version.

 

[tom3]

When doing the brakes check the slider pins on the calipers. Pull the pins out, clean and regrease with some good brake safe lube. You'd be surprised how those can get rusted and seize up tight.

 

[The Grey Beast]

Thank you both I will reference these post in the future. Thank you

 

[The Grey Beast]

Hi to all.

So I purchased the Diablo sprint and plugged it in. It flashes red and then one red light. I’m assuming this is some kind iof error. However the AFM seems to be disabled. Go to work later and will drive it in the hwy and will see. Any thoughts on what is going on?

Thank you ahead of time.

Ken