What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Geoffsfas10]

well....oil leak still happening. guess its either rear main or oil pan gasket. damn it.

 

[j91z28d1]

well....oil leak still happening. guess its either rear main or oil pan gasket. damn it.

ls oil pan gaskets all leak like clock work it seems. it's a damn shame gm used all rubber and o'ring style gaskets but speced them to leak around the same milage as old cork gaskets on a Gen one small block chevy. once they went to rubber on those they didn't even leak much.


I honestly have never figured out how gm did such a good job designing the ls and such a bad job sourcing quality parts. any run of the mill cheap felpro oil pan gasket is atleast made if oil resistant rubber.


it's very annoying.

 

[Geoffsfas10]

ls oil pan gaskets all leak like clock work it seems. it's a damn shame gm used all rubber and o'ring style gaskets but speced them to leak around the same milage as old cork gaskets on a Gen one small block chevy. once they went to rubber on those they didn't even leak much.


I honestly have never figured out how gm did such a good job designing the ls and such a bad job sourcing quality parts. any run of the mill cheap felpro oil pan gasket is atleast made if oil resistant rubber.


it's very annoying.

im inclined to think this is the pan gasket, if i pull the inspection cover on the bellhousing, its all dry up on that back side. but the block is wet around the mating surface of the pan. its also a very slow leak, and doesnt leak when its parked up. if i wipe it all clean, and dont drive it for a few days, it stays dry

 

[89Suburban]

im inclined to think this is the pan gasket, if i pull the inspection cover on the bellhousing, its all dry up on that back side. but the block is wet around the mating surface of the pan. its also a very slow leak, and doesnt leak when its parked up. if i wipe it all clean, and dont drive it for a few days, it stays dry

Don’t forget besides just a rear main seal there is the cover gasket that it is mounted in that can also start to fail and leak. Either can most certainly leak and it still look bone dry inside that inspection cover.

 

[Doubeleive]

im inclined to think this is the pan gasket, if i pull the inspection cover on the bellhousing, its all dry up on that back side. but the block is wet around the mating surface of the pan. its also a very slow leak, and doesnt leak when its parked up. if i wipe it all clean, and dont drive it for a few days, it stays dry

take a look at the dip stick tube also where it goes in on the right side, it has a o-ring and believe the crank position sensor has a o-ring as well, sort of behind the starter.

 

[mikez71]

bummed about my leak too! Have to look some more as well...

Got new rear calipers today.. last set at rockauto..
acdelco, supposed to be heavier duty with silicone seals..

Bought some crush washers too, but they came with some wider ones anyway..

 

[Doubeleive]

bummed about my leak too! Have to look some more as well...

Got new rear calipers today.. last set at rockauto..
acdelco, supposed to be heavier duty with silicone seals..
View attachment 448667

Bought some crush washers too, but they came with some wider ones anyway..
View attachment 448668

I bought the same heavy duty black ones for the front, so far they have been holding up well to my abuse about 3 years now. Went thru 2 sets before them one leaked and one was sticky. they were $207 for the pair, now they are $313.99 thanks Joe

 

[mikez71]

These were $243 for the pair, almost $100 more for the set compared to standard delco gold ones.
They look the same but without coating, different seals, pressure testing and hi-temp lube.

I see them on rockauto again, so I guess they got more in stock..

Glad to hear your's have been holding up, but sad to hear your old ones were not!

 

[Doubeleive]

These were $243 for the pair, almost $100 more for the set compared to standard delco gold ones.
They look the same but without coating, different seals, pressure testing and hi-temp lube.

I see them on rockauto again, so I guess they got more in stock..

Glad to hear your's have been holding up, but sad to hear your old ones were not!

I am pretty rough on brakes more than almost anyone, I have warmed these up pretty good a few times and there still good to go
one of these days I am going to figure out how to make some air vents like these work, just need some "free" time
maybe feed the air in from around the tow hooks or something

 

[j91z28d1]

I used sub ports when I built mine. not in the yukon but other car. they look nice in a flat surface, come in different sizes. I couldn't run 3in all the way like race car stuff, 2.5in fit nicely and they have a grid to block leaves and trash for street/highway driving.

worked pretty good. still over heated the pads in track but took a few laps longer. I need to bit the bullet and go with straight race pads and just swap them at the track. high temp street pads couldn't handle it.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

I am pretty rough on brakes more than almost anyone, I have warmed these up pretty good a few times and there still good to go
one of these days I am going to figure out how to make some air vents like these work, just need some "free" time
maybe feed the air in from around the tow hooks or something
View attachment 448700

You? Heating up brakes?! Nooooooo..... Haha

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

197,500mi
Added some coolant because I still haven't fixed the leak in radiator.
Added a quart of oil since she always uses 2 quarts through a 5, 000mi change interval.
Trying to get to 200,000 on these tires which is definitely pushing my luck, but of course, I just got a screw in them, first puncture of these tires, almost at 50,000 on them.

Figured what the heck and played with my plug kit and actually got it to seal up on the first shot pretty good.
Was only going to do that to run over to the tire shop and get it patched anyway instead of throwing the spare on. But it's holding way better than I thought so I'll just leave it and get the next set of tires on order.

Tire was down to 22 PSI but still didn't trigger the low pressure warning light
Got down to three PSI when I pulled the screw out and reamed the hole to put the plug in.
It's been holding for 24 hours now and I put 50 miles on it.

 

[j91z28d1]

plug are solid these days.

I don't even patch things anymore. not worth the hassle. my new tires got a nail in it few weeks after I got them. tire rack has free road hazard but honestly not worth the hassle to deal with. plug it and done. should he solid till at least the wear bars.

 

[Doubeleive]

You? Heating up brakes?! Nooooooo..... Haha

My wife will go what's that smell? Lol

 

[Grady_Wilson]

plug are solid these days.

I don't even patch things anymore. not worth the hassle. my new tires got a nail in it few weeks after I got them. tire rack has free road hazard but honestly not worth the hassle to deal with. plug it and done. should he solid till at least the wear bars.

I agree, I've been using plugs for years and years now and I have not had an issue with one for almost 2 decades.
Only tire I will actually have patched after I plug it is a motorcycle tire.

 

[89Suburban]

2 weeks ago I was out running errands one Sunday and I ran into a no crank issue. I tried several times until it finally cranked and fired up. In those attempts I did hear the relay single click each time. Though I was going to be stranded. Figuring my starter or the solenoid was going out. Plus recently having the engine replaced it could have been a loose wiring issue. As you could imagine my OCD went into orbit.

However when it did fire up it was very strong and sounded like it was fine. It did it again the next few stops. But those times it only took 3-2 tries. I got it home. First thing I checked was the battery cables and stuff that could have been disturbed during the motor install, grounds and such. Everything looked fine.

On a whim and following my gut instincts, I decided to pop open the under hood fuse box and start poking around. I wanted to check the relays and swap some around as a test. When I removed the starter relay I saw this:

 

[89Suburban]

Very slight bit of that green corrosion on the blades. I swapped a fan relay into there and "see sawed" it in and out to try and clean the socket prongs. It fired up no problem after that. Of course I was still puckered in case it was another problem. I ordered a couple new relays and they showed up a few days later. I installed them. So far it's been performing flawlessly. Knock on wood.

 

[Grady_Wilson]

2 weeks ago I was out running errands one Sunday and I ran into a no crank issue. I tried several times until it finally cranked and fired up. In those attempts I did hear the relay single click each time. Though I was going to be stranded. Figuring my starter or the solenoid was going out. Plus recently having the engine replaced it could have been a loose wiring issue. As you could imagine my OCD went into orbit.

However when it did fire up it was very strong and sounded like it was fine. It did it again the next few stops. But those times it only took 3-2 tries. I got it home. First thing I checked was the battery cables and stuff that could have been disturbed during the motor install, grounds and such. Everything looked fine.

On a whim and following my gut instincts, I decided to pop open the under hood fuse box and start poking around. I wanted to check the relays and swap some around as a test. When I removed the starter relay I saw this:


View attachment 448822View attachment 448823View attachment 448824View attachment 448825

You post makes me a want to go out and pull every relay and check the condition of the contacts.

 

[89Suburban]

I dissected the old one for your viewing pleasure and commentary.

 

[89Suburban]