The KidWagon

[KidWgn]

Something else may be going on there. My trans temp with the stock cooler has never gone over 205, when not towing, in the same climate.

What is the engine coolant temp when your trans is 223? Is your fluid and filter fresh? Cooler fins clear? Do you have the oil cooler also? Electric fans working properly?

I can't imagine the differences in the front grill openings between a Tahoe and Yukon making that much of a difference

EDIT: I have had a Diablo tune installed since day one of having this rig. It may have the fan on/off temps come on a few degrees cooler than stock, which I'm sure effects trans temp

What gears are in yours, how do you drive, and what stall do you have?

I have a 3200 circle d stall in a brand new transmission, with a new filter and Amsoil fluid, with 3.08 gears. The 308’s create a LOT of downshifting.

 

[gooffeyguy]

What gears are in yours, how do you drive, and what stall do you have?

I have a 3200 circle d stall in a brand new transmission, with a new filter and Amsoil fluid, with 3.08 gears. The 308’s create a LOT of downshifting.

Stock trans, stock stall, stock 3.42 gears and a 6.2l AWD XL at 500lbs heavier. I currently have a Derale stacked plate cooler that is a bit taller than the OE cooler and I've never seen trans temps over 210. I just got home from being out and it stayed pretty much 170ish while driving down the highway.

Would a higher stall converter cause more heat?

 

[KidWgn]

Stock trans, stock stall, stock 3.42 gears and a 6.2l AWD XL at 500lbs heavier. I currently have a Derale stacked plate cooler that is a bit taller than the OE cooler and I've never seen trans temps over 210. I just got home from being out and it stayed pretty much 170ish while driving down the highway.

Would a higher stall converter cause more heat?

A higher stall, by nature, generates more heat as it slips.

You have the benefit of a 6.2 and shorter gearing to help keep the trans from up and down shifting so much.

My truck didn’t have the auxiliary cooler at all, just the version that is integrated with the radiator.

A stacked plate design will always cool better than tube and fin.

 

[gooffeyguy]

A stacked plate design will always cool better than tube and fin.

Yup, that's why I installed it. Takes up half the space of a TruCool 40k and is rated same BTUs. It is about 2" thick though.

Your truck not having an auxiliary cooler and just the radiator tank one would be one reason that explaind the higher temps (223*) that you've seen.

 

[KidWgn]

Yup, that's why I installed it. Takes up half the space of a TruCool 40k and is rated same BTUs. It is about 2" thick though.

Your truck not having an auxiliary cooler and just the radiator tank one would be one reason that explaind the higher temps (223*) that you've seen.

Which Derale do you have? The only 2 I see on their site are rated for 14,000 BTU. The TruCool 40k is rated for 45,000 BTU

Trans Cooler Kits

Trans Cooler Kits. Read more

derale.com

 

[gooffeyguy]

Which Derale do you have? The only 2 I see on their site are rated for 14,000 BTU. The TruCool 40k is rated for 45,000 BTU

Trans Cooler Kits

Trans Cooler Kits. Read more

derale.com

It's a 10000 series. Think it's the 51978 or the 52578

 

[KidWgn]

It's a 10000 series. Think it's the 51978 or the 52578

Found it! It is almost literally half the size. Wow. Not quite the same BTU (37,000 vs 45,000), but I’d imagine that unless you’re towing HEAVY, it likely won’t make a difference.

Seeing that my TruCool is dropping me down to 160 at the peak, I think I could actually get away with the 10-row Derale to keep the fluid 160-180°

 

[KidWgn]

Been toying with how short of gears I want, so I made a little Excel sheet. I'm really thinking 4.11 is going to be the way to go. First gear is going to be a tire-fryer, but that's okay with me

With a 32.1" tall tire (285/45r22), that puts 70 mph in 6th gear at 2018 RPM
With a 30.7" tall tire (275/40r22), that puts 70 mph in 6th gear at 2110 RPM

 

[KidWgn]

It’s been a week. I’ve yet to see 170° on the trans temp, and the ambient temps here have been mid 90’s. Photo is after my 21 mile drive to work, ROMPING on it, trying to see how hot I could get it.

I think it’s safe to say it works! It almost works too well. I think I’d have been okay with a 34k, and probably even a 24k. I went with the 40k because it uses 3/8 inverted flare fittings instead of a brazed-on 3/8 hose barb, meaning I can convert to AN fittings later.

To whomever it was that said that a 3200 stall would produce more heat than "even a 40k" could relieve...

@Foggy

Motor mounts are seperate from trans install... You've got quite the list..
Prob just wait on those.
I highly doubt that they will honor any warranty with an aftermarket HP High Stall
Torque Converter.. 3200 stall (from what I read) is a really high stall for a 6k lb
truck. It will create way more heat than even a true cool can handle (unless you live
where it's always cold/cool)
Unless you are operating in the high rpm range all the time, you'll want something
around a 2000 stall... Factory is 1600 rpm... so use that as comparison.
The thing you want/need in a 6L80e TC is a "better" lockup clutch... That's what fails

 

[KidWgn]

Can’t remember if I posted a side shot on the 22’s yet.

 

[KidWgn]

Almost done gutting the Subaru in the garage...and then I can finally get the Tayhoe in the garage and so some much needed work. 24's need to get powder coated, new tires on them, and then I'm coming down another inch in the front and rear, once I get the RF wheel jut figured out.

EDIT: OH! And I can install the thermostatic transmission outlet, and a smaller Derale trans cooler. The 40k--not looped through the radiator--is leaving me no hotter than 156° after really hammering on it on the highway, quickly dropping back into the 140's. I'd like to see consistent temps in the 170°s, and "high" temps closer to 200°

EDIT2: Thanks to @gooffeyguy for turning me on to Derale's coolers

 

[89Suburban]

Almost done gutting the Subaru in the garage...and then I can finally get the Tayhoe in the garage and so some much needed work. 24's need to get powder coated, new tires on them, and then I'm coming down another inch in the front and rear, once I get the RF wheel jut figured out.

EDIT: OH! And I can install the thermostatic transmission outlet, and a smaller Derale trans cooler. The 40k--not looped through the radiator--is leaving me no hotter than 156° after really hammering on it on the highway, quickly dropping back into the 140's. I'd like to see consistent temps in the 170°s, and "high" temps closer to 200°

EDIT2: Thanks to @gooffeyguy for turning me on to Derale's coolers

So you at 5" rear drop and not bottoming out at all? I did the free travel mod and mine still does.

 

[KidWgn]

So you at 5" rear drop and not bottoming out at all? I did the free travel mod and mine still does.

Oh it does

My fender to hubs are currently:
FL: 17.5
FR: 17.5
RL: 17.5
RR:17.625

1/4 tank of fuel

 

[89Suburban]

Oh it does

My fender to hubs are currently:
FL: 17.5
FR: 17.5
RL: 17.5
RR:17.625

1/4 tank of fuel

Cool glad I am not alone. A few have suggested here that it is the short WB rear drivetrain bottoming out into the transmission housing.

 

[KidWgn]

Cool glad I am not alone. A few have suggested here that it is the short WB rear drivetrain bottoming out into the transmission housing.

I'm not following what you're saying, but I'm also short on sleep and attention span lately.

Do you mean the rear axle tube bottoming out? Mine is the frame hitting the axle pad lol

Also, what's your hub-center to fender measure at?

 

[89Suburban]

I'm not following what you're saying, but I'm also short on sleep and attention span lately.

Do you mean the rear axle tube bottoming out? Mine is the frame hitting the axle pad lol

Also, what's your hub-center to fender measure at?

Some here were worried that my actual rear driveline was bottoming out via full collapse of the rear driveshaft slip joint into the rear of the transmission/transfer case. Because it is a 4WD SWB vehicle with a 5" rear drop. My gut tells me that is not what is happening.

These are my suspects in this investigation:

It's either the coil springs or drop shocks hitting full compression.

But more likely IMHO I believe it is the lower bump stop steel axle pads hitting the frame as you have mentioned. I have an inkling to enact a "Full Travel Mod - 2.0" on those things and cut them the hell off or modify them to see where that leaves me. If it's up sh*ts creek so be it. fkit.

But I appreciate your input. I will get a do the measurement you asked about and report back when I can.

 

[89Suburban]

I'm not following what you're saying, but I'm also short on sleep and attention span lately.

Do you mean the rear axle tube bottoming out? Mine is the frame hitting the axle pad lol

Also, what's your hub-center to fender measure at?

Well you certainly called that one. I didn't get the fender measurement yet I keep forgetting. Both axle pads are hitting the frame for sure. This is the driver's side. When I did the free travel mod I left about a 1/4" to 1/2" of flange hanging and that's what it is hitting.

I cut the rest off yesterday and see how it does this week. I already hit the one bump I know always bottoms out on the way to work this morning and it didn't do it so I am hoping I got this under control now. If it still does it I may notch those pads. I don't want to remove them because it looks like its part of the structural bracket for the lower control arm mount.

 

[KidWgn]

Well you certainly called that one. I didn't get the fender measurement yet I keep forgetting. Both axle pads are hitting the frame for sure. This is the driver's side. When I did the free travel mod I left about a 1/4" to 1/2" of flange hanging and that's what it is hitting.

I cut the rest off yesterday and see how it does this week. I already hit the one bump I know always bottoms out on the way to work this morning and it didn't do it so I am hoping I got this under control now. If it still does it I may notch those pads. I don't want to remove them because it looks like its part of the structural bracket for the lower control arm mount.



View attachment 434494View attachment 434495View attachment 434496

Do you have the rear end centered fore-to-aft? I used Spohn adjustable upper and lower control arms to do so.

 

[89Suburban]

Do you have the rear end centered fore-to-aft? I used Spohn adjustable upper and lower control arms to do so.

No but it really doesn't stand out looking at it that it is off center. I have the factory control arms and track bar.

 

[KidWgn]

No but it really doesn't stand out looking at it that it is off center. I have the factory control arms and track bar.

Holy crap. You’re dropped 5 rear with the stock track bar?!