What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Charlie207]

....well, i got what I paid for i guess, the "quality" of the bbk shortys leaves a lot to be desired.
the welder was unskilled, or not paid enough, not allotted enough time to do a decent job...

also, theres no "ball" connector on the 3 bolt flange...its just flat... and has extra ports(with block off plates) for the older systems I suppose.

I'll grab pics in a bit.

Damn. I was hoping these would be the bee's knees.

I did reply to their previous email about the coating with another question about whether they did the inside of the pipes & collector, and as you can probably already observe, they only spray-coat the outside.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Damn. I was hoping these would be the bee's knees.

I did reply to their previous email about the coating with another question about whether they did the inside of the pipes & collector, and as you can probably already observe, they only spray-coat the outside.

Put pics in my build thread.
I could have made these so much cleaner my self.
Debating returning them...

Bought BBK headers...
There's plastic bb's stuck inside and outside of the tubes, welding spatter everywhere including on the mating surfaces. Thick welds inside the tubes, might as well be smaller diameter tubes.
The collectors are anything but a smooth high-flowing transition.
One collector isn't even centered up on the tubes.

There's no ball-joint on the collector flange like the factory manifold or other aftermarket headers.
These were definitely designed for the '99-'06 gmt400, given the 3 egr/air injection ports. They do supply block-off plates for them though.

The threads on the flanges need to be chased to get the ceramic coating out of them.

 

[Charlie207]

Put pics in my build thread.
I could have made these so much cleaner my self.
Debating returning them...

Build thread fro the curious: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...ogression-of-my-stupidity.129351/post-1893872

That stinks, especially how they keep the EGR plates that aren't needed on GMT900s.

 

[Doubeleive]

Build thread fro the curious: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...ogression-of-my-stupidity.129351/post-1893872

That stinks, especially how they keep the EGR plates that aren't needed on GMT900s.

Because it's cheaper to manufacturer one universal product

 

[Charlie207]

Because it's cheaper to manufacturer one universal product

I feel like it would be cheaper to leave a set amount of the those headers off to the side, and not drill holes & weld up the EGR stuff.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Put pics in my build thread.
I could have made these so much cleaner my self.
Debating returning them...

Damn, those look like shit. Guess they don't make them like they used to. My BBK ceramic coated longtubes are about 20 years old and built really well with nice clean welds.

 

[Doubeleive]

Can anyone take a look and see which way this wire harness goes around the heater hose t's? this doesn't look right to me, should go over or under

 

[gooffeyguy]

Got the Morimoto headlights installed Saturday with switchbacks for the turn signals. I still need to fine tune the aiming adjustment though. Forgot to post the obligatory pics

 

[gooffeyguy]

Can anyone take a look and see which way this wire harness goes around the heater hose t's? this doesn't look right to me, should go over or underView attachment 433349View attachment 433352

Here's mine

 

[Doubeleive]

Here's mine

View attachment 433356

Hmm, ok mine seems really tight up in there guess I'll have take a better look

 

[89Suburban]

 

[Doubeleive]

View attachment 433360

So yours goes under?

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Damn, those look like shit. Guess they don't make them like they used to. My BBK ceramic coated longtubes are about 20 years old and built really well with nice clean welds.

Yeah, that's what I thought I was getting, these aren't how I like to do things.
Suppose I could exchange them for jba or something else, they're all 1-5/8.

 

[89Suburban]

So yours goes under?

Yeah. Mine doesn't look as stressed as yours though yours looks tight.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Yeah, that's what I thought I was getting, these aren't how I like to do things.
Suppose I could exchange them for jba or something else, they're all 1-5/8.

JBA is a good brand, better than BBK in my opinion

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

JBA is a good brand, better than BBK in my opinion

I basically only have 5 options in C0MM1E land.
BBK
JBA
Flowtech
Gibson
Doug's

 

[Grady_Wilson]

I basically only have 5 options in C0MM1E land.
BBK
JBA
Flowtech
Gibson
Doug's

One of the many reasons I am moving to a free state.
I will be able to install whatever I damn well please.

 

[blackelky]

So today I ordered sway bar links and sway bar bushings. When I changed the oil the other day I noticed there was no left sway bar link...lol so 3 dealer oil changes, alignment, and transmission fluid changes later and not one tech noticed??? Wtf oh and passed va state inspection with no sway bar link..smh

 

[89Suburban]

Yep.....

I'm an absolute ******* moron. I was trying to undo the red-circled nuts on the driver's side. Fuuuuuuuuu

So I pulled mine out Saturday afternoon. Took me about 1 1/2 hours including the driveshaft. (I already had the half shafts removed.) All those inner nuts and bolts come right out, leaving the mounts behind. No need to access the top. Have to drop the crossmember from under the engine too, only 4 bolts. So the diff housing can clear.

There is a boot on the driveshaft connected to the t-case flange. There is a band clamp you need to cut to get the shaft to slide out of the housing. So I am currently running with no front drivetrain at all.

And like I expected there was enough slack in the wire harness to run the diff actuator up into the engine bay and tie up out of the way. I mounted it into a pill bottle with a beer huggie wrapped around it for vibration noise and tied it up to the spare battery tray. This keeps it from throwing any service 4WD codes.

And yes the truck looks worse underneath with oil buildup than this diff does.

 

[Charlie207]

So I pulled mine out Saturday afternoon. Took me about 1 1/2 hours including the driveshaft. (I already had the half shafts removed.) All those inner nuts and bolts come right out, leaving the mounts behind. No need to access the top. Have to drop the crossmember from under the engine too, only 4 bolts. So the diff housing can clear.

There is a boot on the driveshaft connected to the t-case flange. There is a band clamp you need to cut to get the shaft to slide out of the housing. So I am currently running with no front drivetrain at all.

And like I expected there was enough slack in the wire harness to run the diff actuator up into the engine bay and tie up out of the way. I mounted it into a pill bottle with a beer huggie wrapped around it for vibration noise and tied it up to the spare battery tray. This keeps it from throwing any service 4WD codes.

And yes the truck looks worse underneath with oil buildup than this diff does.


View attachment 433555View attachment 433556View attachment 433557

Yeah, when I get some free time I'll pull mine. The half shafts are out, and when I spun the driver's side of the front diff it's gritty/crunchy.

What did you tie the front driveshaft to?