Broken Motor Mounts

[j91z28d1]

The job isn't completely horrible. Especially the D/S. I used my electric impact gun on the mount to frame bolts, jacked the engine up on the cat and then folded up the heat shield and used a swivel head socket and some swivel attachments. After twisting the mount around like a rubix cube I got it to slide out from the bottom without removing anything. I tried doing it with gloves on but didn't work so had to do it bare handed which means your hands will be completely shredded. Also MAKE SURE you jack holding the engine up is secure. If it slips out when you have your fingers under the mount it's gonna be messy. Also like I said before I would consider the newer style swivels mandatory.

ordered one. I'll see how bad the drivers side is and decide how bad the pass needs it later

 

[mikez71]

FWIW my passenger side was not torn, but possibly leaking. With just driver side replaced, it felt great!

Both H3 mounts installed on a stock engine, I do feel a very slight increase in vibration through the steering wheel at idle. Not bad at all, but not 'zero' difference.
I like the added durability of the H3 mounts, so am still happy I went with them, despite being overpriced...

Replacing the mounts was really NOT BAD at all!!
The number of screws and parts that need removed are small.
Only a couple are harder to reach, and the frame bolts feel like they are threaded into locknuts so it is a little slow.
BUT, zero surprises! Once you have the right length of stubby extension and/or swivel joint, you are set.
Get intimate with your strut towers, strengthens the owner/vehicle bond.

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

ordered one. I'll see how bad the drivers side is and decide how bad the pass needs it later

If you have 4WD get ready for a real fun-fest. I changed my driver-side mount this weekend. Spent about 12 hours and really tore my left arm up badly. See my post. Beware the black rectangular connector block for the ECU/Ignition harnesses (between radiator and #1 cylinder). The exposed corner is razor-blade sharp. Took me 12 hours and I have all the wobble sockets, extensions, airtools, etc... Do yourself a BIG favor and find a shop that will do it for you!

 

[PatDTN]

If you have 4WD get ready for a real fun-fest. I changed my driver-side mount this weekend. Spent about 12 hours and really tore my left arm up badly. See my post. Beware the black rectangular connector block for the ECU/Ignition harnesses (between radiator and #1 cylinder). The exposed corner is razor-blade sharp. Took me 12 hours and I have all the wobble sockets, extensions, airtools, etc... Do yourself a BIG favor and find a shop that will do it for you!

Funny, I have a 2009 4wd tahoe and somehow dodged that whole nightmare TWICE having replaced a broken mount on my 5.3 then swapped the engine to a 6.2.

It's much simpler with the wheel off and the fender liner removed.

 

[j91z28d1]

If you have 4WD get ready for a real fun-fest. I changed my driver-side mount this weekend. Spent about 12 hours and really tore my left arm up badly. See my post. Beware the black rectangular connector block for the ECU/Ignition harnesses (between radiator and #1 cylinder). The exposed corner is razor-blade sharp. Took me 12 hours and I have all the wobble sockets, extensions, airtools, etc... Do yourself a BIG favor and find a shop that will do it for you!

yep, mines a 4wd. ugh. I have a loose plan to do it tomorrow. I might just have to pull the wheel and liner out. I have decent tools here, but most of the oddball stuff is at work. plus no top side creeper here.

throw in my battery is in the left front plus a few extra things and a aux fuse box. I'm not looking forward to it but it needs it badly.

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

I will say, it's really a nice feeling to hit the accelerator now and not hear/feel the clunk!
Hope yours goes better than mine did! Kevin

 

[Geotrash]

yep, mines a 4wd. ugh. I have a loose plan to do it tomorrow. I might just have to pull the wheel and liner out. I have decent tools here, but most of the oddball stuff is at work. plus no top side creeper here.

throw in my battery is in the left front plus a few extra things and a aux fuse box. I'm not looking forward to it but it needs it badly.

I have to say that I didn't find it to be too bad. I'm built like a grizzly bear with similarly-sized paws, and I did a handful of things that helped:

1/ I separated the steering shaft. It was a pain to do and took some patience, but it improved access significantly.
2/ As others have said they did also, I took the front wheel off along with the fender liner. Takes 10 minutes to do both. Game changer.
3/ I removed the heat shield from the exhaust manifold after patiently waiting for the penetrating oil to do its job on the bolts.
4/ I used a block of wood under the oil pan with a good quality floor jack that made it easy to support the engine and carefully raise it incrementally as needed.
5/ I cut away the heat shield from the motor mount with a pair of tin snips to get better access to the bolts.
6/ I used a wobble joint on the socket wrench.

Having done the job now, I wager I could do it again in a couple of hours and less than 3 beers, taking my time.

It's also a really good time to change the engine oil cooler lines, if so equipped.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

I paid $58 for this mount in 2019, how is it $271 now!?

I should of kept my h3 mount from the last Tahoe lol

 

[kbuskill]

I paid $58 for this mount in 2019, how is it $271 now!?

I should of kept my h3 mount from the last Tahoe lol

Not to get too political but E-lections have Con-sequences..... lol

 

[j91z28d1]

I paid $58 for this mount in 2019, how is it $271 now!?

I should of kept my h3 mount from the last Tahoe lol

my guess is since it's a discontinued H3 and it's literally the only mount listed for those trucks, there's no auto parts store replacement and they don't seem to fail. gm is probably like why do we keep running out of stock on these parts. (no clue who the vendor is) I'm curious what's going to happen in a few years when it hits the time gm stops supporting parts for for the H3. I guess we'll all have to go aftermarket poly at that point.


inflation is real, but this feels different.

on a side note I didn't get to mess with mine this weekend. maybe next

 

[Geotrash]

my guess is since it's a discontinued H3 and it's literally the only mount listed for those trucks, there's no auto parts store replacement and they don't seem to fail. gm is probably like why do we keep running out of stock on these parts. (no clue who the vendor is) I'm curious what's going to happen in a few years when it hits the time gm stops supporting parts for for the H3. I guess we'll all have to go aftermarket poly at that point.


inflation is real, but this feels different.

on a side note I didn't get to mess with mine this weekend. maybe next

Fortunately, there are other suppliers out there of mounts for these of various materials, including poly.

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

I have to say that I didn't find it to be too bad. I'm built like a grizzly bear with similarly-sized paws, and I did a handful of things that helped:

1/ I separated the steering shaft. It was a pain to do and took some patience, but it improved access significantly.
2/ As others have said they did also, I took the front wheel off along with the fender liner. Takes 10 minutes to do both. Game changer.
3/ I removed the heat shield from the exhaust manifold after patiently waiting for the penetrating oil to do its job on the bolts.
4/ I used a block of wood under the oil pan with a good quality floor jack that made it easy to support the engine and carefully raise it incrementally as needed.
5/ I cut away the heat shield from the motor mount with a pair of tin snips to get better access to the bolts.
6/ I used a wobble joint on the socket wrench.

Having done the job now, I wager I could do it again in a couple of hours and less than 3 beers, taking my time.

It's also a really good time to change the engine oil cooler lines, if so equipped.

Glad it went smoothly for you! Sounds like you did all the same things as me, for whatever reason I had a lot of trouble with the four mount-to-block bolts. Regardless, definitely one of those jobs worth having behind you!

 

[Geotrash]

Glad it went smoothly for you! Sounds like you did all the same things as me, for whatever reason I had a lot of trouble with the four mount-to-block bolts. Regardless, definitely one of those jobs worth having behind you!

Yeah, it's not like I'm going to seek out the chance to do that job again!

 

[Ilikemtb999]

my guess is since it's a discontinued H3 and it's literally the only mount listed for those trucks, there's no auto parts store replacement and they don't seem to fail. gm is probably like why do we keep running out of stock on these parts. (no clue who the vendor is) I'm curious what's going to happen in a few years when it hits the time gm stops supporting parts for for the H3. I guess we'll all have to go aftermarket poly at that point.


inflation is real, but this feels different.

on a side note I didn't get to mess with mine this weekend. maybe next

It’s also listed for 13-14 tahoes and suburbans too, like they tried to fix a known issue with a running change

 

[j91z28d1]

It’s also listed for 13-14 tahoes and suburbans too, like they tried to fix a known issue with a running change

oh yeah? same part number? comes on it it gotta replace the stock ones with it?

 

[j91z28d1]

ugh.. that wasn't fun. but gotta say, probably the first time being a hybrid helped out. no power steering pump in the way, it slid forward and out in one piece without removing much but some wiring clips and grounds.


it was definitely broken. truck feels significantly smoother. must have been bad since I got it. because know you can't even feel the engine start and stop, before it wasn't bad but sometimes it did make some noise I thought was probably normal.

for anyone doing it, besides the 15mm impact wobbly above, a 28ish inch transmission extension would be very handy working from the top for the frame bolts and thru the fender well for the block bolts. if you haven't seen them, it's a special extension meant to get to the top bolts of a tranny bellhousing. it's 1/2in on the impact end and 3/8 on the socket end, hardened so it doesn't waste you impact power like normal extensions do.

byond that, it's just mostly miserable. took me about 3 hours start to finish.

 

[claustralia]

Just finished reading this thread and although I don't have much clunk on accelerating I do notice a slight groaning sound before the engine warms up when going over bumps. Thought it might be the mounts. Do yall think this is normal movement or is this mount on the way out?

https://imgur.com/b6SlWkj

 

[solli5pack]

Just finished reading this thread and although I don't have much clunk on accelerating I do notice a slight groaning sound before the engine warms up when going over bumps. Thought it might be the mounts. Do yall think this is normal movement or is this mount on the way out?

https://imgur.com/b6SlWkj

I do believe that is to much movement and the mount is likely failed. Not sure if it would cause a groaning sound on a cold motor though.

 

[j91z28d1]

you know, it's hard to say for me. that's definitely more movement than I'd like to see, but also it doesn't have the abrupt lift and hit the stop that mine had. yours looks like it has some smoothness to it. but you'd need to find someone with a oem non hummer mount to compare.

groaning over speed bumps when it's cold seems to be sway bar end links and bushings for most people. mine does it, but they look fine and it's not cold here long enough for me to care much yet.

 

[j91z28d1]

so I got bored and took my old mount apart, I'm guessing this isn't a oem mount. so it was probably done before. I definitely don't see any way these have fluid in them?