2022 Yukon AT4 wants BASS

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Fast_AT4

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Looking to add 1 Sundown 15", amp, and assuming LC2? What all might be needed (maybe a second battery as well)? Would look for the future to hold replacing the front/rears as well...on an amp naturally. Much thanks.
 

Joseph Garcia

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What is your objective?

Good clean sound louder than stock volume, or crazy loud sound with the volume to set off car alarms and for your friends to hear you coming 2 blocks away?

The first option can be achieved with your existing battery and alternator. The second option may require a larger alternator and/or a second battery.
 
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Fast_AT4

Fast_AT4

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What is your objective?

Good clean sound louder than stock volume, or crazy loud sound with the volume to set off car alarms and for your friends to hear you coming 2 blocks away?

The first option can be achieved with your existing battery and alternator. The second option may require a larger alternator and/or a second battery.
With having a system in every car I've ever owned...BASS. Only looking to do like 2,500-3,000watt...so nothing too crazy. But yes, want to see what I can do with this open space (with 3rd row up position). Just not certain on if I need an LC2, some type of custom harness to get a remote trigger from the stock system for LC2 and amp. Already have some 0GA from my last system.
 
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Fast_AT4

Fast_AT4

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Step 1 complete, box will be sanded down and painted black.

433476408_10228909057124092_7603746877797740185_n.jpg
 

Doubeleive

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Step 1 complete, box will be sanded down and painted black.

View attachment 424349
if you want it to sound at least half way decent on the oem system then I would get a lc2 pro or even a higher model so you can fine tune it a bit, a lot of the sound is filtered already
if it is like the k2's then the factory amp should be right there in the left kickpanel
 
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Fast_AT4

Fast_AT4

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if you want it to sound at least half way decent on the oem system then I would get a lc2 pro or even a higher model so you can find tune it a bit, a lot of the sound is filtered already
if it is like the k2's then the factory amp should be right there in the left kickpanel
Perfect video for the LC2 Pro:

Amp:
Think im going to pair with this amp: https://www.down4soundshop.com/down4sound-jp23-v1-5-elite-black-2300w-rms-amplifier/

Sundown x15 V2 D2: https://www.down4soundshop.com/sundown-audio-x-series-v-2-15-1500-watts-dvc-2ohm/
 
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Wife does antique furniture so asked her opinion....here is the outcome.

Hit it with an orbital sander and used this gel stain product she has...wax on / wax off.

433475646_10228910978172117_7472985263171181630_n.jpg


Love how it turned out. Just letting her air out while I wrap up the other above items. Then a good wipe down. Maybe i'll have her use her Wagner to clear coat. #MorningCoffeeGoalsOnLanai
 
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Fast_AT4

Fast_AT4

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433493528_10228913626238317_7623975312929336652_n.jpg


Amp will be mounted under driver side 3rd row seat.
LC2i Pro will be mounted under passenger side 3rd row seat.
Both will be nearly out of sight once installed.

Now to find a proper (hidden) location for the 2nd XP Power Battery. Need to open the side panels in the rear or see if I can mount it anywhere under the hood.

Goal with the system is to be able to "quickly" remove the box if/when needed for vacations or hauling large items.
 

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I’ve had good luck with my jp23 but you will need a secondary battery to get it to full power unless you wire it to 1000watts I can’t turn mine up more then halfway with the radio all the way up or the voltage drops. I’ve done the big 3 but I want to swap to lithium yinlong cells next so I won’t have the voltage drop issues anymore.
 
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Fast_AT4

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if you want it to sound at least half way decent on the oem system then I would get a lc2 pro
433452839_10228914020128164_1607568640335652685_n.jpg


So based on this, looks to be the proper location for the remote wire into the LC2i Pro. Already have a remote jump for my cameras...adding in another remote jumper be ok? Will find a more "proper" way to do it vs wrapping around legs and pushing in :party36: .

I’ve had good luck with my jp23 but you will need a secondary battery to get it to full power unless you wire it to 1000watts I can’t turn mine up more then halfway with the radio all the way up or the voltage drops. I’ve done the big 3 but I want to swap to lithium yinlong cells next so I won’t have the voltage drop issues anymore.
Was looking at the D4S amps, picking up an Orion XTR 2500.1 local for a good deal later today; fits perfectly under the 3rd row seat w/good air flow around it....as I always have the AC turned on for the feet as well as vents. Was running an X15 with SCV-3000D in my F250, but that already had 2 batteries and didnt drop below 11.5 if I recall. But I will be needing a secondary in the AT4.
 
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Fast_AT4

Fast_AT4

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I have a second battery in the truck that I use as a spare, and that is how I have it connected into the system, so that I can easily connect/disconnect it at any time.
Care to share your setup pics? Not going to be a fan of having the battery in sight, so I think i'll set the sub box on a flat piece of wood and make a open box to drop it in for "quick" removal.
 

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View attachment 424401

So based on this, looks to be the proper location for the remote wire into the LC2i Pro. Already have a remote jump for my cameras...adding in another remote jumper be ok? Will find a more "proper" way to do it vs wrapping around legs and pushing in :party36: .


Was looking at the D4S amps, picking up an Orion XTR 2500.1 local for a good deal later today; fits perfectly under the 3rd row seat w/good air flow around it....as I always have the AC turned on for the feet as well as vents. Was running an X15 with SCV-3000D in my F250, but that already had 2 batteries and didnt drop below 11.5 if I recall. But I will be needing a secondary in the AT4.
WELL..... not ideal in my opinion, they make fuse tap adapters to connect a wire properly, basicaly it's a fuse holder with a lead soldered on which is much cleaner
tons of different ones on amazon, not sure what size that is in your photo, gm has decided to use like 5 different kinds now

 
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Fast_AT4

Fast_AT4

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WELL..... not ideal in my opinion, they make fuse tap adapters to connect a wire properly, basicaly it's a fuse holder with a lead soldered on which is much cleaner
tons of different ones on amazon, not sure what size that is in your photo, gm has decided to use like 5 different kinds now

So running 2 remotes from that fuse would not be an issue? I actually have some of those circuit adapter holders here....apparently got lazy when I was doing my camera install lol.

433492959_10228914544501273_4525289938456106158_n.jpg


Perfect fit. Now to mock up a panel to mount it to with short rubber stand offs for shock damper and also air flow under the amp.
 

Doubeleive

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So running 2 remotes from that fuse would not be an issue? I actually have some of those circuit adapter holders here....apparently got lazy when I was doing my camera install lol.

View attachment 424408

Perfect fit. Now to mock up a panel to mount it to with short rubber stand offs for shock damper and also air flow under the amp.
no it should be fine, you can piggyback off anything else already on a trigger, all it is looking for is a small voltage signal there is no amp draw per sey.
 

Trey Hardy

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View attachment 424401

So based on this, looks to be the proper location for the remote wire into the LC2i Pro. Already have a remote jump for my cameras...adding in another remote jumper be ok? Will find a more "proper" way to do it vs wrapping around legs and pushing in :party36: .


Was looking at the D4S amps, picking up an Orion XTR 2500.1 local for a good deal later today; fits perfectly under the 3rd row seat w/good air flow around it....as I always have the AC turned on for the feet as well as vents. Was running an X15 with SCV-3000D in my F250, but that already had 2 batteries and didnt drop below 11.5 if I recall. But I will be needing a secondary in the AT4.
Those yinlong cell swaps are around the same price as adding a secondary battery and wiring for it. You’ll have better voltage with the lithium for your money
IMG_5336.png

IMG_4141.jpeg
 
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Fast_AT4

Fast_AT4

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Those yinlong cell swaps are around the same price as adding a secondary battery and wiring for it. You’ll have better voltage with the lithium for your money
View attachment 424412
View attachment 424413


With Buss bars and balancer: https://bigjeffaudio.com/collection...ium-titanate-oxide-lto?variant=43785197093112
How to Build:

I can laser cut out my own acrylic box for protection.

So once ready to drop into the vehicle, run a + and - from the battery (inline fuses needed?) straight to the lithium box and then straight to the amp?

LithiumBank.PNG
 

Trey Hardy

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With Buss bars and balancer: https://bigjeffaudio.com/collection...ium-titanate-oxide-lto?variant=43785197093112
How to Build:

I can laser cut out my own acrylic box for protection.

So once ready to drop into the vehicle, run a + and - from the battery (inline fuses needed?) straight to the lithium box and then straight to the amp?

View attachment 424457
I’m pretty sure you do away with the battery if I’m not mistaken I’d have to check with my two buddy’s I haven’t actually done this setup yet but a couple of my bass head buddy’s have and had great results. Plus the lithium is supposed to last 10years or so supposedly over a normal battery which might get what 3 years? Before needing to be replaced
 

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