2022 Yukon AT4 wants BASS

[Fast_AT4]

uqa is it then, i guess it just depends on how many speakers you have then.
6/8/9/10+ and the year/make/model

Called the local stereo shop...$150 to get 2 leads from the Bose amp for the signal BHAAHA!!!!

 

[Doubeleive]

Called the local stereo shop...$150 to get 2 leads from the Bose amp for the signal BHAAHA!!!!

no... all you need to know is which cables are the sub output. I don't know if the 2016 is the same wires but I just patched in at the factory amp to the lc2

 

[Fast_AT4]

no... all you need to know is which cables are the sub output. I don't know if the 2016 is the same wires but I just patched in at the factory amp to the lc2
View attachment 424615

Based on your image as well as I can only assume the subwoofer wires will be thicker....I think I found the target. Thanks GMC for making me taking out the entire hatch area flooring, rear speaker pillar.....to get the side panel able to flex out enough to get back in there.

The Green w/Blk and Blue w/gray pin next to each other. While the Black w/white is in a different position on that connector.

I'll assume the Green is positive and Blue is negative?

 

[Doubeleive]

Based on your image as well as I can only assume the subwoofer wires will be thicker....I think I found the target. Thanks GMC for making me taking out the entire hatch area flooring, rear speaker pillar.....to get the side panel able to flex out enough to get back in there.
View attachment 424625

The Green w/Blk and Blue w/gray pin next to each other. While the Black w/white is in a different position on that connector.

I'll assume the Green is positive and Blue is negative?

on the 16 you just pull off the fuse box cover and amp is right there behind some filter looking material, easier to work with though by removing the jack storage cover and having 2 ways in

 

[Doubeleive]

I would poke the wire with a meter and check to verify polarity, no telling by the color anymore gm does whatever gm wants as far as wire color but they have been "better" with black being a ground more often.

 

[Fast_AT4]

on the 16 you just pull off the fuse box cover and amp is right there behind some filter looking material, easier to work with though by removing the jack storage cover and having 2 ways in

Lucky you LOL....pointing to where the harness is around.

 

[Fast_AT4]

Would you assume my thinking is right that those are most likely the sub wires due to size?

 

[Doubeleive]

Would you assume my thinking is right that those are most likely the sub wires due to size?

Most likely, I was actually surprised it was so easy to get to on the 16, on the Silverado you have to pull the backseat out, you can kinda reach it from under the seat but can't see anything

 

[Fast_AT4]

On my F250, tilt the back seat forward and the Bose amp was right there. I think I even found the pin out on a first search too lol. I would assume GMC would have a proper site for such information like amp pin out with a VIN entry then it queries YOUR specific model.

Forgot I saved this bookmark; my actual. Doesnt help much.

View attachment 424663

Now thinking about it, where is the actual sub in my AT4.

 

[Doubeleive]

On my F250, tilt the back seat forward and the Bose amp was right there. I think I even found the pin out on a first search too lol. I would assume GMC would have a proper site for such information like amp pin out with a VIN entry then it queries YOUR specific model.

Forgot I saved this bookmark; my actual. Doesnt help much.

View attachment 424663

Now thinking about it, where is the actual sub in my AT4.

usually under the center console, probably a 6". useless for my needs. i can barely hear the one in my gmt900 if I pull my jl's out.
on the silverado with no center console they make the front door speakers 6x9 sub's, rattled like hell if you turned it up
I had bought this memphis amp and a jl amp and just kinda pieced things together as I had the money, finally had all of it together wired it up and the amp was shorted internally right out of the box, so it went up in smoke and blew out the the fusible link on the battery fuse panel, so that was around $500 bucks down the drain. then I turned around and wired a pair of 10" j audio's wrong and smoked those another $500 down the drain.....
o'well lesson learned I had followed the diagram in the paperwork for the JL's but it was backwards.

 

[Fast_AT4]

@Doubeleive When looking for my second battery, do I need to have any concerns other than it being a 12v? I see many different "Group" specs. Was eyeballing this one:

XS POWER | D3400 | 2500W / 4000W

Get XS powers #1 Selling Battery XS D3400, at the lowest price guaranteed lowest! FREE Shipping + the XS Power D3400 Comes with Freebies

www.down4soundshop.com

 

[Doubeleive]

@Doubeleive When looking for my second battery, do I need to have any concerns other than it being a 12v? I see many different "Group" specs. Was eyeballing this one:

XS POWER | D3400 | 2500W / 4000W

Get XS powers #1 Selling Battery XS D3400, at the lowest price guaranteed lowest! FREE Shipping + the XS Power D3400 Comes with Freebies

www.down4soundshop.com

a d34 "should" fit in the 2nd battery tray but I cannot confirm, might require minor modification of the tray, I have only looked under the hood of the t2's once and saw they changed all kinds of stuff around, haven't had the opportunity to investigate further, I don't even want one lol, 2020 is my limit

 

[Fast_AT4]

a d34 "should" fit in the 2nd battery tray but I cannot confirm, might require minor modification of the tray, I have only looked under the hood of the t2's once and saw they changed all kinds of stuff around, haven't had the opportunity to investigate further, I don't even want one lol, 2020 is my limit

Will be mounting elsewhere....not under the hood. So size isnt "really" a factor. So other than needing it to be a 12v AGM battery...no other real specs that I need to be concerned about?

 

[Doubeleive]

Will be mounting elsewhere....not under the hood. So size isnt "really" a factor. So other than needing it to be a 12v AGM battery...no other real specs that I need to be concerned about?

as long as you are running it seperate from the main vehicle battery then no

 

[Fast_AT4]

as long as you are running it seperate from the main vehicle battery then no

I was going to run 0Gauge for power from the main battery to the second battery - Inline Fuse - to amp and LCi2 Pro....no?

 

[Doubeleive]

I was going to run 0Gauge for power from the main battery to the second battery - Inline Fuse - to amp and LCi2 Pro....no?

might be a good idea to run a battery isolator, so it can charge but is not backfeeding to the main battery, unless you needed it in case the main battery died, then you could just move a cable or flip a switch and start it up.
essentialy it goes along with the general rule "do not mix batteries"

 

[Fast_AT4]

Did a "dirty" dry test today, just to make certain all worked as expected:
ran 0gauge to amp
grounded to bolt for my testing purpose
ran remote wire from front passenger fuse box to amp
jumped out of amp to LC2i

All powered on when the AT4 was started...so no battery drain.

Cut the below board to a perfect/snug fit...doesnt even need to be mounted to the floor, can not move any more forward only backwards and backwards at a slant to get past other seat mounting brackets and such.

Looks pretty proper to me. Might need to wrap the wood board with matching carpet (or just paint it black) to look a tad better; but happy this moment with it and can still get to all the adjustments on amp and LCi2 Pro. Figured this is a nice location for good air flow and with the quick disconnects for the sub; will be easy (short of HEAVY) to remove the box if/when I need to haul something or go for vacation.

Todays goals achieved.

Now to pick a battery, take measurements and find a nice hidden place to mount it.
Excuse the dusty seats and debris on the carpet...#WorkingHere .

 

[Fast_AT4]

Looking like i'd be running the positive and negative off the battery under the AT4 and coming up thru a grommet in the hatch area to connect to battery 2.

 

[Fast_AT4]

Switching gears a bit. Going with this Lithium as it can be dropped in with an existing AGM and SUPER small/light so I can hide in the back.

Big Jeff Car Audio Compact 22AH 12V Lithium LFP Battery 6000W BJ-LI-22AHDefault Title

Powerful Performance: With a remarkable max power rating of 6000 watts, this lithium battery will effortlessly handle the most demanding car audio systems. Enhanced Energy Storage: The battery boasts a total energy capacity of 293 Watt hours, guaranteeing long-lasting power for extended...

bigjeffaudio.com

Hope to be ordering in the next few days w/charger. Then its GO time!

 

[Fast_AT4]

Progress:
Picked up an D4S LTO battery over the weekend.
Mocked up a piece of wood to mount the Amp/LC2/LTO. Can mount these under the seat as expected....3rd row wont fold down if mounted there.
Ran my 0GA from front stock battery (w/inline fuse) to the back area.
Remote wire ready

To Do:
Run Negative from front to back
Tap into Bose for Sub signal
Purchase Lithium battery charger

Taking a bit long than expected...but life happens.