2022 Yukon AT4 wants BASS

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Fast_AT4

Fast_AT4

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I have a second battery in the truck that I use as a spare, and that is how I have it connected into the system, so that I can easily connect/disconnect it at any time.
Care to share your setup pics? Not going to be a fan of having the battery in sight, so I think i'll set the sub box on a flat piece of wood and make a open box to drop it in for "quick" removal.
 

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View attachment 424401

So based on this, looks to be the proper location for the remote wire into the LC2i Pro. Already have a remote jump for my cameras...adding in another remote jumper be ok? Will find a more "proper" way to do it vs wrapping around legs and pushing in :party36: .


Was looking at the D4S amps, picking up an Orion XTR 2500.1 local for a good deal later today; fits perfectly under the 3rd row seat w/good air flow around it....as I always have the AC turned on for the feet as well as vents. Was running an X15 with SCV-3000D in my F250, but that already had 2 batteries and didnt drop below 11.5 if I recall. But I will be needing a secondary in the AT4.
WELL..... not ideal in my opinion, they make fuse tap adapters to connect a wire properly, basicaly it's a fuse holder with a lead soldered on which is much cleaner
tons of different ones on amazon, not sure what size that is in your photo, gm has decided to use like 5 different kinds now

 
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WELL..... not ideal in my opinion, they make fuse tap adapters to connect a wire properly, basicaly it's a fuse holder with a lead soldered on which is much cleaner
tons of different ones on amazon, not sure what size that is in your photo, gm has decided to use like 5 different kinds now

So running 2 remotes from that fuse would not be an issue? I actually have some of those circuit adapter holders here....apparently got lazy when I was doing my camera install lol.

433492959_10228914544501273_4525289938456106158_n.jpg

Perfect fit. Now to mock up a panel to mount it to with short rubber stand offs for shock damper and also air flow under the amp.
 

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So running 2 remotes from that fuse would not be an issue? I actually have some of those circuit adapter holders here....apparently got lazy when I was doing my camera install lol.

View attachment 424408

Perfect fit. Now to mock up a panel to mount it to with short rubber stand offs for shock damper and also air flow under the amp.
no it should be fine, you can piggyback off anything else already on a trigger, all it is looking for is a small voltage signal there is no amp draw per sey.
 

Trey Hardy

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View attachment 424401

So based on this, looks to be the proper location for the remote wire into the LC2i Pro. Already have a remote jump for my cameras...adding in another remote jumper be ok? Will find a more "proper" way to do it vs wrapping around legs and pushing in :party36: .


Was looking at the D4S amps, picking up an Orion XTR 2500.1 local for a good deal later today; fits perfectly under the 3rd row seat w/good air flow around it....as I always have the AC turned on for the feet as well as vents. Was running an X15 with SCV-3000D in my F250, but that already had 2 batteries and didnt drop below 11.5 if I recall. But I will be needing a secondary in the AT4.
Those yinlong cell swaps are around the same price as adding a secondary battery and wiring for it. You’ll have better voltage with the lithium for your money
IMG_5336.png
IMG_4141.jpeg
 
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Fast_AT4

Fast_AT4

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Those yinlong cell swaps are around the same price as adding a secondary battery and wiring for it. You’ll have better voltage with the lithium for your money
View attachment 424412
View attachment 424413


With Buss bars and balancer: https://bigjeffaudio.com/collection...ium-titanate-oxide-lto?variant=43785197093112
How to Build:

I can laser cut out my own acrylic box for protection.

So once ready to drop into the vehicle, run a + and - from the battery (inline fuses needed?) straight to the lithium box and then straight to the amp?

LithiumBank.PNG
 

Trey Hardy

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With Buss bars and balancer: https://bigjeffaudio.com/collection...ium-titanate-oxide-lto?variant=43785197093112
How to Build:

I can laser cut out my own acrylic box for protection.

So once ready to drop into the vehicle, run a + and - from the battery (inline fuses needed?) straight to the lithium box and then straight to the amp?

View attachment 424457
I’m pretty sure you do away with the battery if I’m not mistaken I’d have to check with my two buddy’s I haven’t actually done this setup yet but a couple of my bass head buddy’s have and had great results. Plus the lithium is supposed to last 10years or so supposedly over a normal battery which might get what 3 years? Before needing to be replaced
 

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