randeez
Full Access Member
the fix so nice you found it twice
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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NOOOOO
Can you slide the rubber buffers/pads (or whatever they're called) up the cable so they, er, buffer the noise?
gooffeyguy
Tom
That's what I was thinking. They are there for some reason
mounted and balanced the continental h/t
they are the non LT ones in the 265/70/17 size but man, I gotta say softest easiest tire I've very mounted. they literally just fall on the rim. hope they don't sway from the softer sidewalls. the defenders that came off were noticeable stiffer but that could be because of the age.
new tires always feel good compared to old ones, but these seem nice. Definitely quite. I hear more wind noise than road noise now haha.
off to try and find a shop that will do an actual alignment for me tomorrow. these days it hurts my soul to pay for work that I know they won't even do. Just tow and go, tell me the printer is down or they forgot to save the before lol. I'm half temped to put a uniform on to go even thou it's my day off lol. in hopes of a bit of courtesy.
they are the non LT ones in the 265/70/17 size but man, I gotta say softest easiest tire I've very mounted. they literally just fall on the rim. hope they don't sway from the softer sidewalls. the defenders that came off were noticeable stiffer but that could be because of the age.
new tires always feel good compared to old ones, but these seem nice. Definitely quite. I hear more wind noise than road noise now haha.
off to try and find a shop that will do an actual alignment for me tomorrow. these days it hurts my soul to pay for work that I know they won't even do. Just tow and go, tell me the printer is down or they forgot to save the before lol. I'm half temped to put a uniform on to go even thou it's my day off lol. in hopes of a bit of courtesy.
No I could not. And the offending cable did not have it anyway. I sliced up a piece of silicone heater hose and ZIP TIED it to it where it was bouncing on the control arm. Then ZIP TIED the cables together where I saw fit here and there in places I thought it would dampen the bouncing.
It's tough to find honest shops these days.
There is a local shop that is very honest.
Step son picked up a used car and took it in for an alignment, it was still in spec so they didn't charge him a dime.
Just called and told him to pick it up.
There is a local shop that is very honest.
Step son picked up a used car and took it in for an alignment, it was still in spec so they didn't charge him a dime.
Just called and told him to pick it up.
that's nice.. I mean I get it, alignment doesn't pay much, it's more of find something wrong while you're there type of thing. that's why most places offer a lifetime one for 150$. it takes a long time to set the rack up and do a good job. time they should be making money bit fighting with rusty suspension bolts but ugh. I'll pay you if you do it right. last time I had one done, I brought it home and ended up checking it and having to torque all the bolts, nothing and we tight. the cams would have moved as soon as I hit some corners.
What pisses me off is when you do a complete suspension refresh with all new hardware and take it in, all that is moot. They still do a half assed toe n go. I spent $600 between 3 places last summer and they all fkn SUCKED. I'll do it myself in my driveway fk u....
blackelky
Full Access Member
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Recently got a decent raise...please talk me out of getting this 2019 durango rt for 25k with 60,000 miles lol
that's brutal. I probably should move everything, pull it in that garage and atleast setup some strings first to see how bad it is. I've got camber plates and 2 turn tables somewhere around here.
I'd kill for a drive on lift. worst thing is I could totally justify having one at work, but being the smallest shop in the system we just don't have the room. I'd happily buy all the alignment tools myself if so haha
If only we had a 100 percent icon we could use for posts like this.
I wouldn't dream of owning any Chrysler product newer than 1970, and even that is pushing it.
Prewar would be better.
Geoffsfas10
Full Access Member
Update to my P0340 code...apparently the connector had become unclipped and was just kind of dangling in there. checked for corrosion and such, and clicked it back in. weird
Sparksalot
Elite Member
Rotated the tires, all 5 of them. How hard can it be.
The winch didn’t seem to want to come down. Fiddled a bit and it came down fine. Spare was low on air…
I also grabbed some wd40 and a bit of oil for the stupid hoist safety.
So drag the air hose out. Let me check all the tires, on both cars, plus spares. Time fiddled away.
Got the jack out, first one off. Let’s get into a rhythm. Nope. The 22mm socket was giving grief because the lugs aren’t pristine enough. Switched to 7/8”. Now we’re rocking. Second tire swapped. Damn socket won’t come off the lugnut. Out comes the dead blow hammer. For every nut on that Wheel. Plus the third one.
Fourth is cake. Time to put the last wheel back into the spare position. How hard can that be…
The hoist won’t lift. Not with a load. Sorta wants to until the slack is taken up. Well at least I’m not stuck with a dangling spare I can’t release. It’s acting like the drive lug is rounded off. I pried the plastic guide tube out of the way and looked. The lug looks fine. Tried again. Still acting like it’s rounded off. It starts to take up, then I can feel it slip.
screw it, pull the hoist out, toss the spare in the cabin for now.
I‘m gonna go out on a limb and assume y’all northern folk are not used to seeing these under bits without a metric crap ton of rust.
The winch didn’t seem to want to come down. Fiddled a bit and it came down fine. Spare was low on air…
I also grabbed some wd40 and a bit of oil for the stupid hoist safety.
So drag the air hose out. Let me check all the tires, on both cars, plus spares. Time fiddled away.
Got the jack out, first one off. Let’s get into a rhythm. Nope. The 22mm socket was giving grief because the lugs aren’t pristine enough. Switched to 7/8”. Now we’re rocking. Second tire swapped. Damn socket won’t come off the lugnut. Out comes the dead blow hammer. For every nut on that Wheel. Plus the third one.
Fourth is cake. Time to put the last wheel back into the spare position. How hard can that be…
The hoist won’t lift. Not with a load. Sorta wants to until the slack is taken up. Well at least I’m not stuck with a dangling spare I can’t release. It’s acting like the drive lug is rounded off. I pried the plastic guide tube out of the way and looked. The lug looks fine. Tried again. Still acting like it’s rounded off. It starts to take up, then I can feel it slip.
screw it, pull the hoist out, toss the spare in the cabin for now.
I‘m gonna go out on a limb and assume y’all northern folk are not used to seeing these under bits without a metric crap ton of rust.
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the_tool_man
Full Access Member
So after fighting issues with Chiwanese headlights a few months ago, I swapped in my OEMs just to keep me going. You know how it goes. It's temporary, unless it works. Sure enough, one of the old incandescent bulbs burned out the other day. So I swapped in a pair of Sealight LED H13s today. It's nice to have headlights the same color temperature as my LED fogs now. I checked the beam pattern and it looked okay. We'll see after a nighttime test drive.
gooffeyguy
Tom
The wife's Acadia lug nuts get stuck in the socket also. It takes the same size as a Tahoe/Yukon, but they are the "capped" type lug nuts, which are basically an open acorn style nut with a chrome sleeve on the outside that's tack welded at the base. The "cap" flares out a bit at the base and when using the impact they will get stuck so I've learned to not put the socket all the way on and also stop the impact before the nut comes completely off the stud so I can pull the socket off if it does get stuck in the socket. Then use my fingers to remove the nuts the last couple turns.
mine does the same thing if I bottom out the socket.
if I do I can run it back on a few threads and pull it off
