Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida

[adventurenali92]

So, been trying to research and understand things much better about the truck and I see a lot of positive feedback on getting a blackbear tune and AFM delete and this seems to be something I want to invest in. Any recommendations there with current condition of my truck?

Also, after doing some additional research, I see that some people do a proactive replacement of the torque converter. I don't think I'd do this before my trip, but should I be considering looking for a good transmission shop in the area and doing this sometime next year?

If you can alring for a blackbear tune, DO IT! You won’t regret it! Lol. They are absolutely amazing at what they do. Very professional, reasonable cost and you get a lot of value out of a tune. Even on a stock truck it just wakes up that 6.2, and brings out all the an available power. the transmission part of the tune is so worth it as well. While I don’t have much experience with the 6L80s, I’ve heard they’re reprogrammed from the factory to race up through the gears into over drive as quickly as possible and I’d imagine that leads to a lot of hunting for the right gear when you’re trying to get up and go in drive. Even my 4L65 did it. They can adjust the shift points so it’ll hold a lower gear a bit longer which will make the transmission much more usable and more fun. Plus having the trans not shifting around a bunch in hunting for the right gear will help keep the temperatures down from what I understand and less heat in the transmission is always better lol.

 

[bigboy215]

I have a 2009 Tahoe I have replaced the steering wheel angle sensor because my traction light was on and that's what the code red and it's still on after I change the angle sensor and I have checked though wheel bearings sensors and they are good so now I don't know what to do next do anybody have a clue here

 

[Doubeleive]

I have a 2009 Tahoe I have replaced the steering wheel angle sensor because my traction light was on and that's what the code red and it's still on after I change the angle sensor and I have checked though wheel bearings sensors and they are good so now I don't know what to do next do anybody have a clue here

you should create your own thread/post, but the first thing to do is get a scanner that can read body codes and see what the code is.

 

[bigboy215]

you should create your own thread/post, but the first thing to do is get a scanner that can read body codes and see what the code is.

All right appreciate that

 

[Fless]

I have a 2009 Tahoe I have replaced the steering wheel angle sensor because my traction light was on and that's what the code red and it's still on after I change the angle sensor and I have checked though wheel bearings sensors and they are good so now I don't know what to do next do anybody have a clue here

Code red ain't never gonna get fixed.

 

[bigboy215]

Code red ain't never gonna get fixed so you saying this is a lemon get rid of it

 

[bobby2175]

If you can alring for a blackbear tune, DO IT! You won’t regret it! Lol. They are absolutely amazing at what they do. Very professional, reasonable cost and you get a lot of value out of a tune. Even on a stock truck it just wakes up that 6.2, and brings out all the an available power. the transmission part of the tune is so worth it as well. While I don’t have much experience with the 6L80s, I’ve heard they’re reprogrammed from the factory to race up through the gears into over drive as quickly as possible and I’d imagine that leads to a lot of hunting for the right gear when you’re trying to get up and go in drive. Even my 4L65 did it. They can adjust the shift points so it’ll hold a lower gear a bit longer which will make the transmission much more usable and more fun. Plus having the trans not shifting around a bunch in hunting for the right gear will help keep the temperatures down from what I understand and less heat in the transmission is always better lol.

Yup! I'm splurging for the tune - have already ordered the hardware and hoping to get the process started when I get back into town this weekend!

 

[bobby2175]

Any comment on proactively changing the torque converter - I've noticed this in a couple of threads as I've been doing a lot of reading?

 

[bobby2175]

Ok, here's where I am now. Had a new to me local shop finish up some work while I was out of town last week. I now have this done as well:

Transmission filter and fluid
Power steering fluid
Differential fluid
Transfer case fluid
Replaced driver's side engine mount
Replace lower ball joints
Replace tie rods
I'm noticing they didn't do the brake fluid

Used OEM fluids and OEM parts except for the transmission pan gasket because it was on nationwide backorder.

With every passing day, the truck is running more and more like new.

The engine mount change has nearly stopped the rough idle completely and I no longer have any hesitation and clunk sound when I accelerate.

Up next:
I had the shop collect my engine oil and transmission fluid (which looked terrible) so I can send to Blackstone.

I have my hardware from @BlackBearPerf to get the truck tuned. Are there any specifics I need to request with this tune? My priority is less on fuel economy and more on the fun of driving the truck.

Big 3/4/5 - which I still need to understand a little better, but I've purchased everything I need to do it.

Finish installing my dashcam

I noticed nobody responded to my question about proactively replacing the torque converter - I'm assuming this is not an issue?

 

[Doubeleive]

Ok, here's where I am now. Had a new to me local shop finish up some work while I was out of town last week. I now have this done as well:

Transmission filter and fluid
Power steering fluid
Differential fluid
Transfer case fluid
Replaced driver's side engine mount
Replace lower ball joints
Replace tie rods
I'm noticing they didn't do the brake fluid

Used OEM fluids and OEM parts except for the transmission pan gasket because it was on nationwide backorder.

With every passing day, the truck is running more and more like new.

The engine mount change has nearly stopped the rough idle completely and I no longer have any hesitation and clunk sound when I accelerate.

Up next:
I had the shop collect my engine oil and transmission fluid (which looked terrible) so I can send to Blackstone.

I have my hardware from @BlackBearPerf to get the truck tuned. Are there any specifics I need to request with this tune? My priority is less on fuel economy and more on the fun of driving the truck.

Big 3/4/5 - which I still need to understand a little better, but I've purchased everything I need to do it.

Finish installing my dashcam

I noticed nobody responded to my question about proactively replacing the torque converter - I'm assuming this is not an issue?

you could do the TC as a pre-emptive but it may be a good idea to have it completely overhauled at the same time with all the other little fixes, you could do it and then 6 months down the road have someting else go wrong and then you are paying labor twice.
just my 2 cents, I tend to be rough and break stuff so that should be considered as well.

 

[donjetman]

I noticed nobody responded to my question about proactively replacing the torque converter - I'm assuming this is not an issue?

Assuming you have the 6L80 trans?
I'm a DIYer so I proactively installed a Precision of New Hampton torque converter, part# P4646, 5 yrs and 61k miles ago when the tranny had 130k miles. I had my tranny etc out to do a rear main seal job. Paid $218 locally for it and no regrets. I've done 2 used trans fluid analysis since then and everything is still going good today at 192k miles.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...7-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/page-3#post-1293118

 

[iamdub]

Any comment on proactively changing the torque converter - I've noticed this in a couple of threads as I've been doing a lot of reading?

I don't know the specifics, but it seems the converter in the 6L80 is a weak point. The sloppy tuning and converter are at least two items that keep this trans from being what it could/should be.

Donjetman gave his testimony and @Geotrash replaced his with an upgraded one. Maybe he can expand on what the issue is and what he did about it as a preventative measure. Maybe @NickTransmissions can offer advice.

 

[iamdub]

I'm noticing they didn't do the brake fluid

If they charged you for it, take it back. If not, you can flush the fluid yourself in about an hour. No special tools needed.

I have my hardware from @BlackBearPerf to get the truck tuned. Are there any specifics I need to request with this tune? My priority is less on fuel economy and more on the fun of driving the truck.

I believe it'd be standard, but cleaning up the shifts, torque converter clutch actions and throttle response would be the main thing. You shouldn't suffer any significant MPG loss other than you enjoying the newfound power.

Big 3/4/5 - which I still need to understand a little better, but I've purchased everything I need to do it.

All in due time. It's nothing critical before your trip. Since you mentioned it, what all have you gotten for this?

 

[Geotrash]

I don't know the specifics, but it seems the converter in the 6L80 is a weak point. The sloppy tuning and converter are at least two items that keep this trans from being what it could/should be.

Donjetman gave his testimony and @Geotrash replaced his with an up graded one. Maybe he can expand on what the issue is and what he did about it as a preventative measure. Maybe @NickTransmissions can offer advice.

Good memory. Yes, I had my TC in my 2012 replaced with a remanufactured OEM unit that was upgraded with a billet cover and stronger lockup clutch than stock. It’s a CVC BU60FHD. 20,000 towing miles later and no complaints.

 

[bobby2175]

If they charged you for it, take it back. If not, you can flush the fluid yourself in about an hour. No special tools needed.




I believe it'd be standard, but cleaning up the shifts, torque converter clutch actions and throttle response would be the main thing. You shouldn't suffer any significant MPG loss other than you enjoying the newfound power.




All in due time. It's nothing critical before your trip. Since you mentioned it, what all have you gotten for this?

They didn't charge me for the brake fluid - I just didn't see it on the invoice. I'm going to take a look tomorrow to see if it was actually done.

For big 3, I had no wire and tools. I purchased 1/0 cable, cable cutter, lugs, heat shrink tubing, some mesh loom.....AND I'm glad you asked because it looks like I forgot the crimping tool! Anything I've missed?

 

[iamdub]

For big 3, I had no wire and tools. I purchased 1/0 cable, cable cutter, lugs, heat shrink tubing, some mesh loom.....AND I'm glad you asked because it looks like I forgot the crimping tool! Anything I've missed?

That's pretty much it other than solder if you wanna do that. I soldered and crimped mine because I'm a geek. Being a 2010, yours will have a different factory routing since the main fuse is on the battery. I used marine battery terminals cuz my main fuse is on the firewall. I think we've already discussed this. Anyway, the connections are all to the same points, just in different locations.

For the crimping tool, the hammer-style is cheapest and work fine. Like this or the many clones of it. Personally, I'd use a little solder in the end of the lug if I were to use this. But, it's not absolutely necessary since these cables aren't gonna be pulled on or anything. Just crimp it as far as it'll go, until the hollow "bumps" turn into a "solid thud". This style makes the more desired hexagonal crimp, but 1/0 is at its max and may require lots of effort to fully compress.

 

[iamdub]

Good memory. Yes, I had my TC in my 2012 replaced with a remanufactured OEM unit that was upgraded with a billet cover and stronger lockup clutch than stock. It’s a CVC BU60FHD. 20,000 towing miles later and no complaints.

I checked their site and only saw a catalog. What was the price on that unit? My Tahoe Twin is putting together a parts list to delete AFM and head off any common weak points from his '09.

Actually, in recalling your build, I advised him to check with Cam Motion for a recommendation on a torquier cam that won't sacrifice any top-end. He wants either an L33 that won't require any tuning or a mild upgraded cam for more usable torque without sacrificing any drivability or top-end power.

 

[petethepug]

Definitely get the crimp terminals from the marine shop or online. They’ll either have heat shrink waterproof ends or be loaded with something that bonds to the end with a waterproof adhesive.

 

[Geotrash]

I checked their site and only saw a catalog. What was the price on that unit? My Tahoe Twin is putting together a parts list to delete AFM and head off any common weak points from his '09.

Actually, in recalling your build, I advised him to check with Cam Motion for a recommendation on a torquier cam that won't sacrifice any top-end. He wants either an L33 that won't require any tuning or a mild upgraded cam for more usable torque without sacrificing any drivability or top-end power.

I bought it through my local transmission shop based on their recommendation - I think they only sell to shops.

Good call on the cam motion cam. I’m super happy with the one in our 6.2, - exactly as you’re describing. I was reminded of again today as we were pulling our camper down of the Outer Banks.

 

[iamdub]

I bought it through my local transmission shop based on their recommendation - I think they only sell to shops.

Ah. This makes sense. I just checked their site and they have a dealer in New Orleans.

Good call on the cam motion cam. I’m super happy with the one in our 6.2, - exactly as you’re describing. I was reminded of again today as we were pulling our camper down of the Outer Banks.

I was an overhead door tech in a past life and, while servicing one at their shop, I chatted with the owner. They are certainly passionate about their craft.