What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[strutaeng]

@strutaeng Your positive fuel trims are what's causing the lean code that lights the money light (CEL); positive trims means the PCM is adding fuel. Ideally the sum of each bank's LT and ST trims should be 5% or less. What are your short term trims after it warms up, and what is the sum of ST and LT on each bank?

For example, Bank 1 LT is 10% and ST is -6%: 10 + -6 = 4%. Or -6 + 10 = 4%.

If the LT trims are way higher than the ST trims, then you may want to have the LT trims reset with a capable scanner. It takes the LT tables a while to adjust to ST trims that are significantly different.

10% (total) isn't bad, but anything over that is something that should be investigated. Adding 20% fuel that isn't getting burned can burn up your cats if you have them.

If the trim on both banks is high I'd be looking for a crack or loose hose on the intake tube after the MAF or some kind of vacuum leak, something that affects both banks. Another less common cause is a leaky injector, which can be checked with an injector balance test.

Thank you. Sometimes the short term do go a few points negative, but the sum is still well over 10%.

I've done a smoke test of the intake, but didn't see anything. I cleaned my MAF and actually changed it from another similar I own suburban and not much change. The idle readings lb/min(?) of my scanner convert pretty close to 6.0 grams/second. The rise in values seem good and linear with throttle increase. The other sensor data such as ECT, MAP, etc. also seem okay as well as far I can see

I also did an injector balance test and all injections were within 1-2 psi of each other.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Received today. Didn't realize how bad the balancer looks and this WP is fairly new, but been off 3x due to head issues a couple years ago and previously had clutch fan.
View attachment 413446View attachment 413447View attachment 413448

Can't wait to swap to the electric fans. How'd you run the factory fan harness? Do you have a pic? I also bought the correct underhood fuse box. I might as well do it.

 

[mattbta]

Can't wait to swap to the electric fans. How'd you run the factory fan harness? Do you have a pic? I also bought the correct underhood fuse box. I might as well do it.

LT has a pretty good video. I ran them similar.

 

[Tonyrodz]

LT has a pretty good video. I ran them similar.

Thanks for the link.

 

[Mudsport96]

So far its money well spent.
It's like a totally different truck. Even sounds different. Power is there when you need it, there's no surging of the idle--and no idle chop--which is fine with me. View attachment 411300
It was tuned using a Mustang dyno. Looks to be 345 rwhp and 355 tq. Not too bad.

Glad it all got straightened out man!

 

[Mudsport96]

Home sweet home.View attachment 411409

Wait you have a Panther platform too? My parents just sold theirs without telling me or I would have e bought it from them. 03 Grand Marq with 73k on it. Rode like a dream. The 4.6 was a little weak in my book buy it ran smooth as silk. Was a beautiful burgundy/maroon with cream interior

 

[Tonyrodz]

Wait you have a Panther platform too? My parents just sold theirs without telling me or I would have e bought it from them. 03 Grand Marq with 73k on it. Rode like a dream. The 4.6 was a little weak in my book buy it ran smooth as silk. Was a beautiful burgundy/maroon with cream interior

Yup, I have the same color combo-- actually it's torreador(sp?)red with stone interior, It's the Sport LX, with the center console and floor shifter. Pretty quick. It's actually my most reliable car--and I'm trying to sell it to get a Mustang notchback.

 

[ivin74]

Can't wait to swap to the electric fans. How'd you run the factory fan harness? Do you have a pic? I also bought the correct underhood fuse box. I might as well do it.

I did electric fans on my son's truck and it was pretty straight forward. The most expensive part is getting then tune to the ecm.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I did electric fans on my son's truck and it was pretty straight forward. The most expensive part is getting then tune to the ecm.

I already have mine tuned, just gotta swap them out now. I think for me, the most challenging part will be to remove the clutch fan. I did it once on my van tho. If facing the front of the vehicle, is the thread for the clutch fan reverse or regular thread? Whack it to the right or to the left? I forget which.

 

[ivin74]

I already have mine tuned, just gotta swap them out now. I think for me, the most challenging part will be to remove the clutch fan. I did it once on my van tho. If facing the front of the vehicle, is the thread for the clutch fan reverse or regular thread? Whack it to the right or to the left? I forget which.

Rent the removal tool from Autozone, not hard to remove w the tool

 

[Fless]

I already have mine tuned, just gotta swap them out now. I think for me, the most challenging part will be to remove the clutch fan. I did it once on my van tho. If facing the front of the vehicle, is the thread for the clutch fan reverse or regular thread? Whack it to the right or to the left? I forget which.

Standard righthand threads, Tony. Lefty loosey...

 

[Tonyrodz]

Standard righthand threads, Tony. Lefty loosey...

Thanks @Fless .

 

[tooleyondeck]

Can't wait to swap to the electric fans. How'd you run the factory fan harness? Do you have a pic? I also bought the correct underhood fuse box. I might as well do it.

I am right behind you on that one. I haven't read too much into the swap other than its a fairly common one and most LS swaps I've seen have them. I'll probably dive into this after the holidays.

 

[strutaeng]

My 06 Suburban had this annoying screeching noise from the front blower when the ambient temperatures dropped, only on lower fan speeds.

I finally got fed up and pulled the motor to find a replacement. Ordered it from RA and was going to be 3-4 days. I decided to drill some holes on the old one and squirt some lubricant while I waited. When I reinstalled it, I must had not installed it correctly because it started grinding badly. By the time I removed it it was melted something off the housing and then it didn't work. Nothing.

Took me a while to find the 40A blower fuse (the ones with the clear plastic lens on top). When I replaced the fuse, the blower would come on full blast as soon as I plugged it in, even with the blower off. It was like if was connected directly to the battery. Doh! I had to unplug the fan when I parked the truck. I figured the blower motor resistor must have melted on the "ON" position internally. So I ordered a replacement from Amazon. Strangely, the ones from RA did not seem to match mine on the electrical connector.

Yesterday I finally got both in the mail. Swapped them in and everything is fixed! Just in time for our cold front.

 

[mattbta]

Got the Recirc. door actuator replaced. PITA. Still need to put dash back together in the morning, but everythings working. Didn’t end up needing to cut duct. Removed dash cover and airbag along with Onstar box. See 2nd pic with 2x4 raising duct just enough to get hand in there. Barely.

Looks like I need to do this over the winter. Funny how I commented in reply to your post 2 years ago that I should have done it while I had the dash cover off. Oh well, good excuse to paint it.

Also need to do the rear temp control #3 actuator.

Have these codes:

• B0229
• B0434

 

[Sam Harris]

Deja-vu…

Weird with engine running it’s pegged at 80, but with Key On Engine Off, it’s sitting at 42-ish… good thing I have a backup. Now I just need to find it..

 

[Sam Harris]

Found my spare oil pressure sensor (12677836), sensor socket, (Lisle: 13250), and after finding the needed combo of extensions and u-joints I got the old one out, and the new one in. Cleaned up the pigtail with some CRC QD electronic cleaner, at the suggestion of @Fless, and we’re back in business. Also discovered my pigtail is missing its latch, so ordered a replacement for that. (Yes, I removed and re-plugged it to test, prior to replacing the sensor). I think I may have got 2-3 years out of this Genuine GM part. I’m hoping it’s at least that long before having to do it again, and my backup is already on the way for the next time.

 

[Fless]

Found my spare oil pressure sensor (12677836), sensor socket, (Lisle: 13250), and after finding the needed combo of extensions and u-joints I got the old one out, and the new one in. Cleaned up the pigtail with some CRC QD electronic cleaner, at the suggestion of @Fless, and we’re back in business. Also discovered my pigtail is missing its latch, so ordered a replacement for that. (Yes, I removed and re-plugged it to test, prior to replacing the sensor). I think I may have got 2-3 years out of this Genuine GM part. I’m hoping it’s at least that long before having to do it again, and my backup is already on the way for the next time.

Have your cluster stepper motors ever been replaced? Not suggesting anything, just curious.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Found my spare oil pressure sensor (12677836), sensor socket, (Lisle: 13250), and after finding the needed combo of extensions and u-joints I got the old one out, and the new one in. Cleaned up the pigtail with some CRC QD electronic cleaner, at the suggestion of @Fless, and we’re back in business. Also discovered my pigtail is missing its latch, so ordered a replacement for that. (Yes, I removed and re-plugged it to test, prior to replacing the sensor). I think I may have got 2-3 years out of this Genuine GM part. I’m hoping it’s at least that long before having to do it again, and my backup is already on the way for the next time.

These oil pressure sensors are gonna be the death of us. I "hope" it's the sensor messed up in my van. At idle it goes to 0, gotta Rev it to get a little bit of pressure. The 1st sensor was pegged at 80 also. This new sensor does the opposite.

 

[iamdub]

These oil pressure sensors are gonna be the death of us. I "hope" it's the sensor messed up in my van. At idle it goes to 0, gotta Rev it to get a little bit of pressure. The 1st sensor was pegged at 80 also. This new sensor does the opposite.

I was about to ask why, with all the other oddball solutions companies have created for the common failures, someone hasn't made a relocation kit. Looked it up before posting- they have.