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swathdiver

swathdiver

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Spent a nice long weekend away. No kids, no dogs, no computer, it was nice to relax with my bride!

20230717_132206.jpg
 

George B

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Spent a nice long weekend away. No kids, no dogs, no computer, it was nice to relax with my bride!

View attachment 404236
We only get that once every two years or so. Glad you got away. Heidi and I have never lived in a kid, free relationship, so we’re sort of looking forward to that opportunity as they grow all the while trying not to wish their childhood away.
 
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swathdiver

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Dash Cams.

Since 2019 I've purchased 4 dash cams. The first was an Eachpai X9, then a Pruveo P3 and then two Cobra SC201s. Every camera "died" of the same issue. The camera would stop recording, then record for 11 or 31 or 44 seconds, stop and then start over for several hours. Then a few days later it would start all over again. Scouring the internet never turned up an answer as to why or how this was happening until recently. I thought it was the Florida sun and the failure coincidence was because internally, they were all the same.

It was the memory cards! They get corrupted after time and the camera manufacturers do say to format them periodically. Well, I did that on the camera and the problem did not go away. Now there are videos that explain that the memory must be long formatted on a computer, then formatted on the camera as soon as its installed then all is good for a while. This happened while away this weekend and I used my phone to format the card and got it back working for the ride home.

I have been using various sizes of the Samsung EVO Class 10 micro SD cards. The Cobra cameras came with Western Digital Industrial cards but are too small. I like the storage capacity to be able to drive for a few days in case we see something memorable. Right after I got my first camera, the cops busted a guy right in front of my truck with guns drawn and everything. Thought that I locked that video but was wrong and it was overwritten before we got home.

So from now on we're going to keep an extra card in an SD adapter in the console for when this situation arises. Well, will probably bring a couple of cards for the trip out to Monument Valley in the fall.

I learned this too late to save the earlier cameras, tossed them all in the garbage. I'm usually a pack rat, thinking I can pull the cameras out of them for other projects! Yeah, still have a box of old digital cameras from 20 years ago that I haven't gotten around to yet! LOL

The first Cobra works fine but the built in GPS quit and am not about to take it apart and try and fix it anymore. Still sitting on top of my computer, can't bring myself to throw it into the trash yet!
 
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swathdiver

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Blackstone Labs report came back for the Yukon today. Now we have 5 samples over 5 years and 60K miles.

I noticed something interesting, a trend if you will. The first two samples were with regular Mobil 1 synthetic oil. In June of 2019 we switched off of that and have been using ACDelco's oil since. You can see a definite drop in metals after the switch.

Blackstone-Labs Report - 280076-230614 - No Personal Data.jpg
 
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swathdiver

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For those interested, the first sample came back for the transmission on the 2013 Sierra. Blackstone's report in a nice way alluded to the transmission oil probably having been changed before, which is great! I've attached the reports from the Yukon's transmission for comparison.

Blackstone-Labs Report - DG216971-TR-230615 - No Personal Data.jpg
Blackstone-Labs Report - 280076-TR-220905 - No Personal Data.jpg
 
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swathdiver

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Purchased an MDI2 from ChinaCarDiags 2 weeks ago. Arrived yesterday. Curiously, they do not show them or the Tech-2 on their website anymore.

The unit was packaged with the OBDII cable and a USB cord. There is an ethernet port. It does not appear to have any WIFI capability. No battery tray.

At present, my only plans in using this is for pass-thru programming. Gotta run some errands, will fire it up and test it out soon.
 
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swathdiver

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Took an engine oil sample from the 2013 Sierra this morning. Last 3 oil changes were on ACDelco's oil. Just put her on Quaker State Full Synthetic that we were able to order from Walmart with our groceries for $28.61 including tax. First start with 5 quarts and no rattles. Topping off and then we'll revisit this tomorrow morning with a cold start and see how it performs in the motor. If the motor keeps quiet we'll keep running it and send of another sample after the 3rd oil change on it. She's also on ACDelco PF48 filters, not E.
 

89Suburban

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Ok, just replaced the passenger side temperature actuator and took a video of the recirculate door in operation for you. It operates smoothly in normal operation and moved in steps when controlled by the Tech-2.


For those that come along later looking to replace an actuator:

It's an easy job with the right tools. Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative cable on your battery. Then use a trim tool to remove the trim panel above the radio stack, it is one long piece, so be gentle and don't bend it under the AC vents! Once loose, flip upside down and disconnect the DIC connector and put it on the rear bumper. Now take a 7mm socket and remove the screw holding the right AC vent in place, there is one clip on this piece, use your trim tool to release it. Plop it over on the driver's seat.

Take a 10mm socket and a long extension and remove the 4 bolts securing the passenger side airbag. Now take your pry tool and gently pop loose the tabs on the airbag's sides first and then the portion in front of you and then gently lift it up and set it down askew on the dash. Pull the orange keeper out of the yellow airbag connector and you might use a small flat blade screw driver to help release the connector. Now you can put the airbag module on the driver's seat.

It's wide open now to replace the Recirculate Actuator or the Passenger Side Temperature Actuator. They both use the same part numbers and both are printed on the same box, 15-72971 or 89018365. I did not remove the red keeper prior to removing the connector from either actuator. Just pried up gently on the tab and lifted the connector away. On the Temperature Actuator, I removed the connector after getting it loose from its position. Take a 5.5 millimeter socket and remove the screws on either side of the actuator.

The doors that the actuator's manipulate are slotted, so keep that in mind when installing the new actuators. Installation is the reverse.

Trim Pry Tool
Pick or Small Flat Blade Screwdriver
10mm wrench
10mm socket - 1/4 inch drive
7mm socket - 1/4 inch drive
5.5mm socket - 1/4 inch drive
@swathdiver I just found this doing some searching. When I use the AC I almost always run it with the recirc mode OFF. Sometimes depending on the temperature the computer will automatically select the RECIRC on first startup. I learned when to expect this to happen and push the recirc button to override it.

Problem last few weeks I am having is if I don't catch it in time and the recirc door fully engages it will refuse to disengage regardless of any adjust of any of the controls whatsoever. But if I turn the truck off and start it back up it will be back to non-recirc position on it's own. So I am a bit confused why it will go back to outside vent on it's own at startup but not if I push the recirc button.

One would think if there is an actuator issue it would stay stuck??? Appreciate your thoughts on this.
 
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swathdiver

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@swathdiver I just found this doing some searching. When I use the AC I almost always run it with the recirc mode OFF. Sometimes depending on the temperature the computer will automatically select the RECIRC on first startup. I learned when to expect this to happen and push the recirc button to override it.

Problem last few weeks I am having is if I don't catch it in time and the recirc door fully engages it will refuse to disengage regardless of any adjust of any of the controls whatsoever. But if I turn the truck off and start it back up it will be back to non-recirc position on it's own. So I am a bit confused why it will go back to outside vent on it's own at startup but not if I push the recirc button.

One would think if there is an actuator issue it would stay stuck??? Appreciate your thoughts on this.
It might be getting stuck and only the movements it makes when recalibrating gets it unstuck. Could be broken teeth in the actuator causing this.

If you pop the airbag out you can then pull the actuator and see if the door itself is stuck and if not, take apart the actuator and move the broken teeth out of the way.
 
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swathdiver

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First oil analysis came back for the 2013 6.2 Sierra. This was based on 3 oil changes with ACDelco's 5W30 oil. We are now going to run 3 more oil changes with Quaker State full synthetic and then do another analysis. This oil has similar viscosity numbers as ACDelco but not as high but still higher than Mobil One. The motor does not rattles on start up.

Blackstone-Labs Report - 216971-230728 - No Personal Information.jpg
 
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swathdiver

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Last 3 tankfuls of fuel from different stations have been difficult to pump aboard so a new GM charcoal canister (22963841) was ordered and finally began to install it yesterday. Well, I tried but was not strong enough to unfasten the hoses. So today a helper arrived and finished the job for me. We also put on the new wiper arms after a little finessing to get the old ones off and my daughter programmed the new garage door. Off to refuel and see if the new canister cured the problem!

The canister was not leaking pellets. When I tipped it over brown oil spilled out of it, and onto my shirt! LOL
 
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sub08

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I would avoid GMPARTSGIANT - They sent me DORMAN 4WD actuator instead of OEM as I was expecting and I had to pay restocking fee and shipping for it. I will say away from them. I also read lots of people had bad experience with GMPARTSDIRECT.
 
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swathdiver

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Replaced the passenger seat's adjuster, the track assembly with the motors. Took the seat out, put it on the coffee table in the living room and my helper went to town tearing it down and swapping the parts over. It was cool to see how the passenger presence system works with it's tube and fan or pump. The instructions said to recalibrate it but there was no place to do that I saw with the Tech-2 afterwards.

Hopefully next week we'll get the RR seat and then change the adjuster under the driver's seat. Boy are those expensive! Not doing Gruven gear parts, not until this one breaks!

Out of space to keep storing stuff, especially these old seat tracks, should I save them anyway or sell them?
 

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Replaced the passenger seat's adjuster, the track assembly with the motors. Took the seat out, put it on the coffee table in the living room and my helper went to town tearing it down and swapping the parts over. It was cool to see how the passenger presence system works with it's tube and fan or pump. The instructions said to recalibrate it but there was no place to do that I saw with the Tech-2 afterwards.

Hopefully next week we'll get the RR seat and then change the adjuster under the driver's seat. Boy are those expensive! Not doing Gruven gear parts, not until this one breaks!

Out of space to keep storing stuff, especially these old seat tracks, should I save them anyway or sell them?
Sell them James.

I keep doing the same thing…. Oh I might need that or there’s a part I might need later on…. 5 years go by and there that item sits, covered in dust, taking up room and useless.

I say sell it now if you can while it’s still fresh in your mind. My opinion
 

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