Oil consumption between changes

[WalleyeMikeIII]

Could be DFM related in your case. Long drives on highway is where DFM kicks in most, as it doesn’t take much engine power to keep you moving down the road at high speed…your engine in this case probably not operating at high speed…likely 1300-1600 rpm…

 

[Vladimir2306]

Could be DFM related in your case. Long drives on highway is where DFM kicks in most, as it doesn’t take much engine power to keep you moving down the road at high speed…your engine in this case probably not operating at high speed…likely 1300-1600 rpm…

Just not, as far as I remember from past generations, AFM does not work at speeds over 140 km / h, I think DFM is the same. Moreover, at a speed of 170, the car rarely goes to the maximum 10th gear. Most often it is the 8th or 9th. Therefore, the engine speed is visible in the photo. 3500)))) This is a lot) and this is strange, because usually the car should have enough power to move at maximum speed in the maximum automatic transmission gear. But here it feels like it's missing.

 

[WalleyeMikeIII]

Good grief, where can you drive sustained at those speeds?

Honestly, at those speeds continuous, kind of wondering if 0W-20 is the right oil?

 

[Marky Dissod]

AFM does not work at speeds over 140 km / h, I think DFM is the same. Moreover, at a speed of 170, the car rarely goes to the maximum 10th gear. Most often it is the 8th or 9th. Therefore, the engine speed is visible in the photo. 3500)))) This is a lot) and this is strange, because usually the car should have enough power to move at maximum speed in the maximum automatic transmission gear. But here it feels like it's missing.

AFM = either V4 mode, or V8 mode
DFM = 17 different engine firing orders ranging from V2 mode all the way through V8 mode

If it doesn't need all 8 cylinders, it will not use all 8 cylinders.
If it has to use 9th or 8th gear in order to use fewer cylinders, it will try to do that too.

That may very well be why you feel a miss.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Good grief, where can you drive sustained at those speeds?

Honestly, at those speeds continuous, kind of wondering if 0W-20 is the right oil?

I agree completely.
Sustained driving at such speeds, I'd be surprised if it used 10th gear; 9th or 8th would be more likely.

Also, at such sustained speeds, 0W30 seems like a wiser choice, at least until you can disable
V2 mode
V3 mode
V4 mode
V5 mode
V6 mode
& V7 mode.

 

[Vladimir2306]

Good grief, where can you drive sustained at those speeds?

Honestly, at those speeds continuous, kind of wondering if 0W-20 is the right oil?

In Russia, we have high-speed roads that allow you to drive between large cities in this way))

 

[Vladimir2306]

AFM = either V4 mode, or V8 mode
DFM = 17 different engine firing orders ranging from V2 mode all the way through V8 mode

If it doesn't need all 8 cylinders, it will not use all 8 cylinders.
If it has to use 9th or 8th gear in order to use fewer cylinders, it will try to do that too.

That may very well be why you feel a miss.

I just noticed that the tahoe is k2xx with a 6,2 engine. 6automatic transmission. At a speed of 170, I consumed 19-20 liters per 100 km and drove at this speed in the highest 6th gear. And the Yukon is also 6,2 but 10 automatic transmission. It travels in 8th and 9th gear and consumes 22-23 liters per 100 km / h at 170 km/h. It also eats more oil. While k2xx butter did not consume so much. Although the oil was 0-w20 here and there

 

[Vladimir2306]

I agree completely.
Sustained driving at such speeds, I'd be surprised if it used 10th gear; 9th or 8th would be more likely.

Also, at such sustained speeds, 0W30 seems like a wiser choice, at least until you can disable
V2 mode
V3 mode
V4 mode
V5 mode
V6 mode
& V7 mode.

It is too difficult to change the oil before each trip to a thicker one))) In addition, our servicemen strictly prohibit pouring oil other than 0-w20

 

[B-train]

I think the amsoil might be TOO slippery, if that's possible, and get past the rings. Just speculation.

But, I can say, just using regular 5w-30 synthetic oil for 90k miles on my 2017 6.2L doesn't use a drop in anywhere from 4500 to 6k when I change it.

Also, 0w-20 is recommended to help meet CAFE numbers, not give you long engine life. Do yourself a favor and just run a good 5w-30 like the commercial 6.6L gas motor requires from the factory. SAME architecture, just designed for a life of work.
For what it's worth....

 

[Vladimir2306]

I think the amsoil might be TOO slippery, if that's possible, and get past the rings. Just speculation.

But, I can say, just using regular 5w-30 synthetic oil for 90k miles on my 2017 6.2L doesn't use a drop in anywhere from 4500 to 6k when I change it.

Also, 0w-20 is recommended to help meet CAFE numbers, not give you long engine life. Do yourself a favor and just run a good 5w-30 like the commercial 6.6L gas motor requires from the factory. SAME architecture, just designed for a life of work.
For what it's worth....

As I understand it, the 6.2 engine from the K2XX generation, and the 6.2 engine from the T1 generation, have in common only in the working volume. These are slightly different engines, with different modes of operation. The same AFM on K2XX and DFM on T1 work differently. On K2XX, I drove about 150 thousand km on 0-W20 oil, and the consumption was always the same. This is about 1 liter per 12 thousand km. Therefore, I have a feeling that switching to X-W30 oil will not give a change in oil consumption

 

[Scott in AZ]

I drive my 2001 Yukon 4WD regularly , about 4,000 miles per year. Currently 172,000 miles. Im rough on the suspension heading to the trail head with my mountain bike, but I’m on eggshells on the gas pedal. But it’s worth it. I consume much less than a half a quart between annual oil changes. Just checked since last change in December 2022 and it seems like it is still completely full. I use my mechanic’s bulk 5W-30; or on my own I use semi-synthetic or synthetic 5W-30. Whatever seems like a current value, but stick to good brand.

 

[B-train]

As I understand it, the 6.2 engine from the K2XX generation, and the 6.2 engine from the T1 generation, have in common only in the working volume. These are slightly different engines, with different modes of operation. The same AFM on K2XX and DFM on T1 work differently. On K2XX, I drove about 150 thousand km on 0-W20 oil, and the consumption was always the same. This is about 1 liter per 12 thousand km. Therefore, I have a feeling that switching to X-W30 oil will not give a change in oil consumption

The new HD pickups with the 6.6L don't have any active fuel management system, but they share the same engine architecture as the LT 6.2L from what I understand. All V8 all the time......the way it should be in my book.

The previous LS 6.2 and LT 6.2 are different animals in many ways. The LS is 6 qts, the LT is 8 qts capacity. I'm sure some of the block stuff may be similar, but many changes were made as you implied for DFM and AFM, as well as direct injection.

 

[B-train]

I believe that it, as most posts here reiterate, that skimping on oil changes does nothing but create potential issues down the road. Whether it be lifters, oil pump issues, timing chains, etc. Oil and filters are CHEAP longevity enhancing items.

Interesting case: my sister has a newer Palisade. She has always done what Hyundai says is the recommended intervals. They use a synthetic blend and say it's good for 7500 miles. Fast forward to 70K and now it burns a quart every 1200 to 1800 miles. YUK!

We advised changing it more frequently and see what happens. I hope it turns around for her. What a joke.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Interesting case: my sister has a newer Palisade. She has always done what Hyundai says is the recommended intervals. They use a synthetic blend and say it's good for 7500 miles. Fast forward to 70K and now it burns a quart every 1200 to 1800 miles. YUK!

We advised changing it more frequently and see what happens. I hope it turns around for her.

1. Hyundai, like every other vehicle manufacturer, wants each vehicle to last 10 years / 150000 miles
MAXIMUM.
Why would they or any other manufacturer recommend oil change intervals that would allow the vehicle to last long enough to eat into their future profits?

2. An ounce of maintenance is worth a pound of cure.
If a Hyundai Palisade takes 6qt per oil change, & she should have changed it 2x as often ...
By the time the engine has cumulatively consumed 60qt of oil, she'll be rid of it /in the market for a newer vehicle anyway, which is exactly what Hyundai wanted - and what every other manufacturer also wants.

TL, DR:
Change your oil somewhere between 20% & 50% more often than recommended by the vehicle maker / oil / filter.

 

[TexasLC]

My 2021 is starting it's 2nd oil consumption test after the first one was done incorrectly.

Right now, I'm appearing to be burning about 1/2 quart every 1,000 miles. But again, my test was done wrong so we're starting over.

Dealer gave me literature from GM that says 1 quart every 2,000 miles for normal driving is acceptable...that seems unacceptable to me...

My last full oil change, I went 5,000 miles roughly, checked the dipstick and there was just a tiny drop on the end the dipstick.

Can't believe these motors are burning this much oil. Or am I just being overly picky?

The car has only 44,000 miles...

 

[dbphillips]

My 2021 is starting it's 2nd oil consumption test after the first one was done incorrectly.

Right now, I'm appearing to be burning about 1/2 quart every 1,000 miles. But again, my test was done wrong so we're starting over.

Dealer gave me literature from GM that says 1 quart every 2,000 miles for normal driving is acceptable...that seems unacceptable to me...

My last full oil change, I went 5,000 miles roughly, checked the dipstick and there was just a tiny drop on the end the dipstick.

Can't believe these motors are burning this much oil. Or am I just being overly picky?

The car has only 44,000 miles...

What engine?

 

[mp5pdw]

I think it is luck of the draw if you're getting a well built motor or one destined to go through oil like crazy. I own a 2010 Cadillac Escalade EXT with the 6.2 liter and it doesn't burn oil. I am not gentle on it either it has 165000 miles on it recently replaced the transmission but it runs great. I run Costco synthetic oil in it and change it every 3500 miles. I spoke to my local Chevy service advisor recently who said going through a quart of oil every 1000 miles is expected in all GM products, I was surprised to say the least my only guess is they're wanting the owners to hold off oil changes until they reach 8,000 miles so the oil will run like molasses through them instead of motor oil but that would be great for business for them

 

[Marky Dissod]

I think it is luck of the draw; if you're getting a well built motor, or one destined to go through oil like crazy.

Luck is the residue of design. Example:
How many more stolen vehicles would be the result of everyone leaving their doors open with keys in the ignition?
More germane example:
Betcha the L8T will have a nearly flawless reliability record, not only due to lacking 'Doze-off' and Cylinder Confusion, but having a forged crank and rods.

I own a 2010 Cadillac Escalade EXT with the 6.2 liter and it doesn't burn oil.
I am not gentle on it either it has 165000 miles on it - recently replaced the transmission, but it runs great.
I run Costco synthetic oil in it and change it every 3500 miles.

1. Every 3500 miles? IMPRESSIVE.
2. Although both are 6.2L, your L94 is NOT an L87.
I'll go so far as to say, most L92 / L9H / L94 failures are the fault of the previous owner(s), who
didn't change oil often enough
drove like leadfooted idjits while using 87

whereas most L87 failures are GM's fault for showing Boeing how to pinch pennies until they bleed.

 

[JKeller]

I'm late to this thread, but both of my most recent Tahoes (a 2015 5.3 and now a 2021 6.2) stopped burning oil when I switched from 0w-20 to a heavier 0w-30 Amsoil.

 

[Vladimir2306]

I'm late to this thread, but both of my most recent Tahoes (a 2015 5.3 and now a 2021 6.2) stopped burning oil when I switched from 0w-20 to a heavier 0w-30 Amsoil.

The 6.2 generation 21+ engines have a problem with the rotation of the crankshaft and the destruction of the liners. Our mechanics believe that thicker oil, in particular 5w30.or 0w30, is to blame. Because the oil does not get where the manufacturer intends