2012 Yukon Denali - 6.2 lifter or something else? [Advice/How to Proceed]

[Geotrash]

You've created a beast:

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-7379-...ce-dod-afm-delete-kit-for-536062-engines.aspx

Here's the deal I don't want to cut any corners and want it all done right. I just spoke with black bear and we're putting our heads together.

The mechanic, myself, or another shop will do what I want....I need to figure that part out. Will the vehicle run with an "unstuck" lifter? I'm in over my head...

Yep, the truck will run with an unstuck lifter. In fact that's the purpose of doing the procedure. It will eliminate the rapping sound and the misfire that goes with it.

We've all been in over our heads, but I don't know any other way to learn. For some folks, learning how to wrench on their trucks isn't a priority. Maybe they make $500K/year and can afford a new Suburban every other year. Or maybe retirement is still 2-3 decades away for them. Or maybe they don't have kids to put through college.

But for the rest of us workaday schmucks, to buy a brand new Yukon XL Denali is like torching a briefcase full of money. It'll lose $10K/year in resale value for the first 5 years. My wife and I make good money, but we have 2 kids to put through school in the next 10 years and we'd actually like to retire someday.

Texas speed puts together good DoD (AFM) delete kits. Also, each option they offer you to choose can generate a debate on these pages in itself. Cam choice, VVT/no VVT, lifter choice, spring choice - folks have strong opinions about all of them. The good news is you'll have plenty of input if you open it up to discussion here.

 

[Pointer 21]

Yep, the truck will run with an unstuck lifter. In fact that's the purpose of doing the procedure. It will eliminate the rapping sound and the misfire that goes with it.

We've all been in over our heads, but I don't know any other way to learn. For some folks, learning how to wrench on their trucks isn't a priority. Maybe they make $500K/year and can afford a new Suburban every other year. Or maybe retirement is still 2-3 decades away for them. Or maybe they don't have kids to put through college.

But for the rest of us workaday schmucks, to buy a brand new Yukon XL Denali is like torching a briefcase full of money. It'll lose $10K/year in resale value for the first 5 years. My wife and I make good money, but we have 2 kids to put through school in the next 10 years and we'd actually like to retire someday.

Texas speed puts together good DoD (AFM) delete kits. Also, each option they offer you to choose can generate a debate on these pages in itself. Cam choice, VVT/no VVT, lifter choice, spring choice - folks have strong opinions about all of them. The good news is you'll have plenty of input if you open it up to discussion here.

I'm not above turning wrenches but I do have to pick and choose which projects to take on (My Polaris, Dirtbike, hunting & fishing addiction) keeps me in the red.

I'm pretty pissed about this deal aside from this forum the mechanics are talking crazy...almost clueless. Of course there's the dealer route but I'm not going there. I may take a swing at the "Lifter Cheat Method".

One last thing - Because I have an oil leak on the passenger side which appears it appears that the transfer case will need to be removed to assess....Does this make it more lucrative for the (WHILE YOU'RE AT IT) ?

 

[swathdiver]

Why in the world does the transfer case have to be removed for an engine oil leak???

L9H camshaft - 12711967 - VVT, No AFM.

If you pull the valve cover and do the Crazed Performance thing yourself, you could be back on the road in an hour, unplug the VLOM until you get the tune done.

 

[Geotrash]

Why in the world does the transfer case have to be removed for an engine oil leak???

L9H camshaft - 12711967 - VVT, No AFM.

I hadn't gotten far enough to ask about that one yet. Prolly seems that way because the front driveshaft looks to be in the way of sealing up that oil cooler line mounting block, but it's actually on the drivers side and there's just enough room to work even though it doesn't look like it. Heck, I put a helicoil in one of the mounting bolt holes for it without dropping the front driveshaft on my 2012.

@Pointer 21, the transfer case is on the drivers side - at least in the US. Are you absolutely certain that the leak is on the pax side?

And thanks, James - I knew you'd know the number!

 

[Pointer 21]

I hadn't gotten far enough to ask about that one yet. Prolly seems that way because the front driveshaft looks to be in the way of sealing up that oil cooler line mounting block, but it's actually on the drivers side and there's just enough room to work even though it doesn't look like it. Heck, I put a helicoil in one of the mounting bolt holes for it without dropping the front driveshaft on my 2012.

@Pointer 21, the transfer case is on the drivers side - at least in the US. Are you absolutely certain that the leak is on the pax side?

And thanks, James - I knew you'd know the number!

Why in the world does the transfer case have to be removed for an engine oil leak???

L9H camshaft - 12711967 - VVT, No AFM.

If you pull the valve cover and do the Crazed Performance thing yourself, you could be back on the road in an hour, unplug the VLOM until you get the tune done.

@swathdiver - THANK YOU SIR!

@swathdiver @Geotrash - Oh hell, so per the last fire drill I had like this (that ya'll walked me through in late 2021 regarding the transmission) and when I had the rear main seal replaced. I had a clown (maybe 2) tell me that bc the vehicle was AWD and the oil leak was on the passenger side that it was "labor Intensive" bc they had to remove the (I thought said transfer case) but I know the pan gasket was involved. Being of aggressive nature I told them to shove it and came back here for ya'll to hold my hand.....I still have an oil leak.

I threw out the bids but I remember the oil was leaking onto the skid plate and I've never seen a drop on the ground.

It's a gasket in that area I believe - I'm forgetting now. I'm not rich enough to drive a 11 y/o vehicle

 

[j91z28d1]

To clarify - The “knocking” happened late Saturday (last weekend). There was no check engine light and it was uneventful until I popped the hood and started connecting the dots. Yesterday (after this post) I checked the oil which was OK, looked under the vehicle which had leaking oil around the filter and was chalking it up to a lifter issue. Moved the vehicle to level ground to check the oil again and the noise is GONE! I’m thinking I’m being warned here and yes - delete ASAP. I drive about a 1/4 mile and the traction control, engine light, etc all kicks on (this hadn’t happened yet). I was nervous about driving it home and was going to have it towed about 1 mile from where I stopped to my house (I ended up driving it back) - hope I didn’t cause more damage here.

Anyhow - I’ve got a check engine light (which even auto zones deal can read that code). Obviously a lot of variables here but if this does end up being the worst case scenario I’d imagine I’d want to do a lot of “while you’re in there work” including addressing the issues and future issues which is why I want to get to a shop that will work with me (would that be a performance shop)?

Any tips and/or if the “while you’re in there” is applicable and/or advisable or if I’m over thinking it is much appreciated.

If I need to cut bait and run - please lay that on me too! I’m not a happy camper with this costly vehicle right now….

I'm a bit lost in this thread. here it sounds like the tapping went away and it's running good. if so, then there's no stuck lifter to release? doing the release lifter trick is to fix the tapping sound.

 

[Pointer 21]

I'm a bit lost in this thread. here it sounds like the tapping went away and it's running good. if so, then there's no stuck lifter to release? doing the release lifter trick is to fix the tapping sound.

The noise was caught early and at my house. No check engine light and was questionable while trouble shooting. After checking, rechecking and moving the vehicle it suddenly stopped for 20+min in the driveway. Drove 1/4 mile and the check engine light came on and it was back only worse.

 

[Geotrash]

@swathdiver - THANK YOU SIR!

@swathdiver @Geotrash - Oh hell, so per the last fire drill I had like this (that ya'll walked me through in late 2021 regarding the transmission) and when I had the rear main seal replaced. I had a clown (maybe 2) tell me that bc the vehicle was AWD and the oil leak was on the passenger side that it was "labor Intensive" bc they had to remove the (I thought said transfer case) but I know the pan gasket was involved. Being of aggressive nature I told them to shove it and came back here for ya'll to hold my hand.....I still have an oil leak.

I threw out the bids but I remember the oil was leaking onto the skid plate and I've never seen a drop on the ground.

It's a gasket in that area I believe - I'm forgetting now. I'm not rich enough to drive a 11 y/o vehicle

Welp, neither the oil pan nor the transmission pan require the transfer case be removed. The former requires the front diff, steering rack and crossmember to be dropped though, and the latter requires the exhaust wye pipe to be dropped a wee bit. But I'm betting that neither is the source of your leak.

 

[swathdiver]

Pay no mind to an oil leak that doesn't make it to the ground. Not worth turning off Josey Wales or a John Ford western to fool with!

Now that stuck lifter, yeah, I'd get after that right quick. Order some pizzas, open the garage door and get the youngsters to come over, I provide the tools and know how! LOL

 

[Pointer 21]

Pay no mind to an oil leak that doesn't make it to the ground. Not worth turning off Josey Wales or a John Ford western to fool with!

Now that stuck lifter, yeah, I'd get after that right quick. Order some pizzas, open the garage door and get the youngsters to come over, I provide the tools and know how! LOL

HA HA - I'm still working on that "know how" not going to lie.... I'm a bit intimidated by the lifter process here : /

 

[swathdiver]

HA HA - I'm still working on that "know how" not going to lie.... I'm a bit intimidated by the lifter process here : /

Do you live near one of us on here? Louisiana, Virginia, Florida?

 

[j91z28d1]

The noise was caught early and at my house. No check engine light and was questionable while trouble shooting. After checking, rechecking and moving the vehicle it suddenly stopped for 20+min in the driveway. Drove 1/4 mile and the check engine light came on and it was back only worse.

ahh that's brutal, if you were able to catch it before it stuck again it would have saved some hassle. but it's probably good news if you decide to go the release it yourself route. it should pop up for you since it did once on its own already.

 

[j91z28d1]

HA HA - I'm still working on that "know how" not going to lie.... I'm a bit intimidated by the lifter process here : /

I think they posted the video of how to do it earlier, but basically you will pull the valve cover off, either crank it, or start it for a very short time to see which rocker arm isn't moving. that's the stuck lifter. then pull the intake manifold off, the valley cover off that's under that and the rocket arm off that didn't move.

stick the tool down the hole and smack it with a hammer. when it shoot the push rod out, you know it's released. then you follow the oil pressure block off and relief gasket cut instructions, put back together, it will run kinda crappy till you get the tune flashed in the ecm to disable the afm request and then all should be good for another 100k miles.


in theory anyways haha.

I did mine before the lifter stuck, so I avoided having to find and release the stuck lifter. the rest was the same.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@Pointer 21 You said it yourself, you don't want to cut any corners. Unsticking a lifter isn't doing the job right, it will get stuck again for the same reason it became stuck in the first place.

Do a proper AFM delete because it is worth the money, you should get another 150K miles out of the motor easy so replace any other parts you need to so that you don't have to go back into the motor any time soon.

 

[j91z28d1]

does. anyone here ever just replace the afm lifters and put it all back together and leave 4cyl on?

 

[Geotrash]

does. anyone here ever just replace the afm lifters and put it all back together and leave 4cyl on?

Yup. Some folks have done that. Nothing wrong with that at all. It comes down to managing the risk of another failure.

 

[MWD_CTSV]

Yup. Some folks have done that. Nothing wrong with that at all. It comes down to managing the risk of another failure.

Agree with Dave. If the cam is fine, replacing the AFM lifters should get you about the same lifetime. The advantage being that you have the option to enable/disable AFM.
Technically, I think the VLOM does age, particularly the solenoids and the gaskets, so you will probably not get double the current life unless you replace it in the future, but it is still a future option.

 

[petethepug]

It’s a 300k+ mi motor. It’s likely not going to get there without the AFM hardware taking something else out prior to that. If you’re at this point and going to keep it, do the AFM delete kit like they sell at Texas Speed.

It will actually increase the resale of the truck. Keep in mind used, replacement junkyard 09/10 L9H 6.2L (factory non AFM) motors go for $5-$9k. A trans replacement is another resale increase and Orig Owner commands over-sale resale prices. Families want a L9H or equivalent e85, engine in a full size SUV, especially a 12 Denali updated to accept the integrated A2DP music streaming hardware module into the phone BT module.

Obviously, right now you have predictable issues at hand. There’s no payments, lower Ins rates and assuming you’ve still have the AutoRide/z55, it’s insanely cheap to maintain now with lifetime guarantee struts & pump. There’s no better ride quality or safety factor for the value.

A service contract paid almost $20k in repair and deferred maint on our 08 YXL Denali in we paid $20k for in 14. After 6 years & 40k miles totaling 140k we sold it for $12.5.

It was training wheels for the 09 Esky Plat ESV with the same mileage we paid $14k for in ‘20. It’s at 170k now with a new $5k trans last Mo. When it was out, new motor mounts trans & front diff mounts were replaced. That made the rear main, pan gasket, oil pick up tube cheap to get at and only $1.5k more parts+labor to replace after the $5k trans was out. The front & rear diffs were serviced too thanks to a diesel Indi tech.

Prior to that new OEM injectors and o2 sensors were replaced. It has about $26k into it now. Strangely that’s about it’s current value. Here in CA e85 is $1.85 gal. Fuel savings over our 08 Denali run on premium fuel at almost $5 gal means fuel savings paid for 100% of its repairs and maint.

Just say’n, keep it. Better to keep the repairs and maintenance you know than take on a new, unknown longevity issues of labor/part pricing depreciation. Stick with the devil you know.

 

[Pointer 21]

Bringing this thread back!! OP here.........The vehicle has been at the mechanic's shop for 1 month (he was out of the country and has a ton of other vehicles); however, VERY HONEST.

SHORT STORY LONG - He has driven the vehicle a total of 34 miles and the following is his diagnosis:

The problem/issue is INTERMINENT AND NOT 100% CONFIRMED:

The Following facts ARE Confirmed:

-#1 Cylinder is the issue and has not had any problems in 34 consecutive miles
- Has Ignition, fuel, but CAN'T CONFIRM compression on Cylinder #1 as the engine needs to be turned off to do so

The good news is (as of right now) the lifter is not stuck and he'd prefer to not throw my money until he can confirm that cylinder 1 has compression issues (again he can't prove that right now).

Questions to the Gurus: How to proceed?

I'm thinking AFM delete/BBP tune/Rock on?

Is this the best course of action? If so, can I order a BBP tune and keep going or should I run another trap?

The sequence of events has me a bit confused (and working alot) LOL!!

@Geotrash @swathdiver @Dustin Jackson

As always thanks for all your contributions!!

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@Pointer 21 Start with the BBP tune because you'll need it regardless. Also you'll want the motor running so you can pull your factory tune, and then once you're tuned you can begin to gather your parts and continue to enjoy driving it until it fails or until you can have planned downtime.