Lifted/Leveled 2021 - Postem Up

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cjmac

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Looks good. Those ridge grapplers are a great tire. We've put about 15K miles on a set on our '21 yukon and they've been great. Still nice and quiet with a smooth ride
Yes, great tires. This is the 3rd set I’ve had.

@olyelr about 40k…should get another 5k out of those before the 37s go on.
 

R32driver

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Yes, great tires. This is the 3rd set I’ve had.

@olyelr about 40k…should get another 5k out of those before the 37s go on.
Good to know I've picked well. Used to run duratracs but I swear after about 15K miles they're so loud they sound like they're worn out and then you have to endure that loudness for another 20K miles until they actually wear out. Duratracs do have excellent traction though
 

Spike045

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2" is about as high as you want to go anything higher is going to eat into your CV axles due to the bad angle and ball joints unless you install new upper "A" arms for the lift and do a front diff drop, the diff drop will keep your CV axles more inline.
That is a very good point, thanks!! I’m use to the CV axles and somehow slipped my mind. I installed the Switch links and new tires today. Went up about 1.5” I’ll try and get some pic’s today.
 

Trey Hardy

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8EA22EC0-77CF-414E-9D8D-5892D4123D00.jpeg
 

Trey Hardy

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Clean...I like the color matched window shields. Interesting front plate...what's the back story (if you dont mind :pepper::peace::party36:)?
It’s a buddy from cedar island pretty simple build
Stock truck that had all the black plastics color matched
2” leveling kit
26” replicas and 35”s
That’s about it really
The plate is the cotton farmer insignia
Clean looking truck
 

Fast_AT4

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Guess a lift is now next on my list...

I see alot of people going the RC 2" F/R lift...which (knowing me..and most people), I might just jump top the RC 3.5" lift. Anyone (Yukon AT4) have the 3.5 F/R with OEM rims/tires I can see a pic? I have the MAGNETIC RIDE CONTROL for reference. Thinking to do the lift now and then rims/rubber when the time comes; not sure how'd it'd look though. I saw an older Suburban the other day and it looked like $hit...lifted too high, rims sticking out about 75% of the tire...oof!

Sorry in advanced, not a rim/tire guy; Thanks!
 

nick14226

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Guess a lift is now next on my list...

I see alot of people going the RC 2" F/R lift...which (knowing me..and most people), I might just jump top the RC 3.5" lift. Anyone (Yukon AT4) have the 3.5 F/R with OEM rims/tires I can see a pic? I have the MAGNETIC RIDE CONTROL for reference. Thinking to do the lift now and then rims/rubber when the time comes; not sure how'd it'd look though. I saw an older Suburban the other day and it looked like $hit...lifted too high, rims sticking out about 75% of the tire...oof!

Sorry in advanced, not a rim/tire guy; Thanks!
I went with the milder 2” RC, spend a decent amount of time in the winter in auto 4wd on the highway, I’m concerned about the taller kits not having diff drops in the front. I asked readylift why and they said the angles don’t need it, guess I’d have to see the cv’s in person to decide for myself. Will say I like the added height visually though. Then the added height would lead me to wanting larger diameter tires, and can’t tune these rigs, so stuck with speedometer being off a few mph and no way to fix it. Stuff like that drives me nuts lol.

Issue you may run into running stock wheels with those kits is the new upper control arms may interfere. Wheel spacers will do the trick though.
 

Fast_AT4

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I went with the milder 2” RC, spend a decent amount of time in the winter in auto 4wd on the highway, I’m concerned about the taller kits not having diff drops in the front. I asked readylift why and they said the angles don’t need it, guess I’d have to see the cv’s in person to decide for myself. Will say I like the added height visually though. Then the added height would lead me to wanting larger diameter tires, and can’t tune these rigs, so stuck with speedometer being off a few mph and no way to fix it. Stuff like that drives me nuts lol.

Issue you may run into running stock wheels with those kits is the new upper control arms may interfere. Wheel spacers will do the trick though.
I will say that I tend to "try" to drive a little spirited in the AT4...still missing the get up and go from my tuned M5. So maybe the 2" kit should be the route I look into. I like the idea of spacers as well. So used to a staggered setup...was looking if you ran a different size on front vs rear :banned: lol. Assuming a proper alignment is needed there after the install? Happen to recall the labor on the install? I dont think my recently added S&B intake did enough for me...maybe a lift will do the trick :happy175:
 

nick14226

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I will say that I tend to "try" to drive a little spirited in the AT4...still missing the get up and go from my tuned M5. So maybe the 2" kit should be the route I look into. I like the idea of spacers as well. So used to a staggered setup...was looking if you ran a different size on front vs rear :banned: lol. Assuming a proper alignment is needed there after the install? Happen to recall the labor on the install? I dont think my recently added S&B intake did enough for me...maybe a lift will do the trick :happy175:
The shop used rough country's estimate of 2-3 hours when calculating the labor. All in with the kit, install, and alignment (yes def get front and rear aligned) was $499 plus tax for me. I've typically done these on my my own but the instructions call for the use of a spring compressor to re-index the front strut, so for what the shop charged I was OK with it. I'm running 1.25" bora spacers front and rear, tire stick out is even, no need for the staggered until you get into full lifts and new knuckles that push the front tires out more than the rear, IMO.

Speaking of spring compressor, another reason I'm hesitant on the 3" - 3.5" lifts, they add a preload spacer in the strut front and rear to achieve the extra lift, which likely stiffens ride. When adding Load E, or whatever LT in larger sizes, the tires plus the preload spacers have to impact ride substantially. Historically I haven't cared about that, but I'm trying to keep a decent ride in this one. One of the reasons I switched to the SL Coopers and got away from the LT BFG's.
 

RaptorJet31

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I have a question for you guys, I have a 22' suburban RST duramax. It comes with the 22" wheels that I have never cared for but figured I'd run them until I figured out what I wanted to do. I tow about 5k trailer weekly and drive in gravel often. I was thinking of going with a 18" rim , or maybe a 20" since the wheel wells are pretty big, would going with a smaller wheel with larger tires be heavier than the little 22" tires? I like my mpg, I just want some more rubber for towing and the gravel that I drive in everyday. I'd like to get some AT's just not sure what size I should go with 18" or 20" for my situation. And also, what will the ride feel like between the stock 22" and a 18" wheel with all terrain tires?
 

STORMIN08

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the weight will be more dependent on style and tire combos...the style and brand make a difference.

the ride quality will very noticeable just by adding any sidewall...20 or 18 in that case. that said, a large dia tire on an 18 can feel more squirmy than the same dia on a 20.

great rule of thumb, ride and handling sre usually best achieved with a wheel dia that is 50% or so of the tire dia.
 

JestersHK

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Love that look. Worried it won't fit in garage... had a 2016 Tahoe with level and 285s that barely fit. For you guys that have done 2in levels, any garage fitment issues?
 

olyelr

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Love that look. Worried it won't fit in garage... had a 2016 Tahoe with level and 285s that barely fit. For you guys that have done 2in levels, any garage fitment issues?
Depends on your garage door height!

I havnt compared the roof heights, but pretty sure these new ones are at least a few inches taller in stock form.
 

JestersHK

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2.2in taller. I went out and did some measurements and I have about 9.5in to spare lol. Looked allot closer while parked in there.

Hoping to get ours in next week for level and new shoes. I will say the stock continentals have about 28K on them now and they have held up ok. Still suck in mid and snow though.
 

Sam Harris

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I have a question for you guys, I have a 22' suburban RST duramax. It comes with the 22" wheels that I have never cared for but figured I'd run them until I figured out what I wanted to do. I tow about 5k trailer weekly and drive in gravel often. I was thinking of going with a 18" rim , or maybe a 20" since the wheel wells are pretty big, would going with a smaller wheel with larger tires be heavier than the little 22" tires? I like my mpg, I just want some more rubber for towing and the gravel that I drive in everyday. I'd like to get some AT's just not sure what size I should go with 18" or 20" for my situation. And also, what will the ride feel like between the stock 22" and a 18" wheel with all terrain tires?
I don’t know what size your brake rotors are, but that would be a consideration, if you’re considering downsizing the wheels. Best to ensure you will have clearance for the rotors, and calipers.
 

Happyhungarian

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Just got a '23 Z71 with the air ride suspension. Want to level it, at a minimum, and maybe go up as much as 2". A few questions:

What's the best lift options? I've used the air ride height rod lifters on my Land Rover but wanted to see if anyone has used these on their Tahoe and what the impact on ride quality was (https://www.suspensionsuperstore.com/2021-2023-chevy-tahoe-w-active-ride-air-ride-0-2-5-lift-kit/)

What's the largest tire you can get if you just level? Sounds like it might be around 33.5" on the OE rims? Does adding a spacer help at all with clearance/size options?
 

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