What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[mattbta]

Would it make a difference if you used a pcm from a different year NBS that was non flex fuel? Are the internsl electronics different?

a lot of the eBay folks will program the PCM to your VIN. The one I got wasn’t as I’m flashing a modified version of my stock tune. From what I’ve seen, a P59 (1MB memory, green/blue) is a P59 is a P59 regardless of year but I’m not an expert. Fairly sure a non-flex of same year uses the same service number hardware and OS but lacks the flex tuning calibration. These are the cals from mine.

 

[Tonyrodz]

a lot of the eBay folks will program the PCM to your VIN. The one I got wasn’t as I’m flashing a modified version of my stock tune. From what I’ve seen, a P59 (1MB memory, green/blue) is a P59 is a P59 regardless of year but I’m not an expert. Fairly sure a non-flex of same year uses the same service number hardware and OS but lacks the flex tuning calibration. These are the cals from mine.View attachment 389168

I'm not computer guy, but I'd think the internal electronics would be the same, except maybe for pins--like when adding electric fans to an 03 down you'll need to add 2 wires(pins).

 

[mattbta]

I'm not computer guy, but I'd think the internal electronics would be the same, except maybe for pins--like when adding electric fans to an 03 down you'll need to add 2 wires(pins).

Right, need to install the pins on each pcm connector from the fan harness I got.

 

[Fless]

a lot of the eBay folks will program the PCM to your VIN. The one I got wasn’t as I’m flashing a modified version of my stock tune. From what I’ve seen, a P59 (1MB memory, green/blue) is a P59 is a P59 regardless of year but I’m not an expert. Fairly sure a non-flex of same year uses the same service number hardware and OS but lacks the flex tuning calibration. These are the cals from mine.

View attachment 389168

My 2004 L59 has more updated calibrations than those; isn't yours the same truck? I used a standalone WinXP laptop and TIS2000 to update mine to the latest in early 2001. Not sure it makes any difference but you'd have to look at the calibration details to see.

Mine with current calibrations highlighted green:

 

[Rocket Man]

The rear end all depends on how the trans is tuned and how well your truck hooks. I blew up a 10 bolt in my truck with stock trans and stock 5.3 with an LS3 cam. Sheared the ring gear bolts surprisingly enough, never seen anything like it. 500 miles from home no less.

Building a 9.5 14 bolt for it next time.

I’m running a 10 bolt in my blown/ cammed AWD 6.0 ‘02 Denali with the TA Performance girdle. I did shear the output shaft on my Performabuilt level 3 4l60 due to the servo passages being plugged with RTV from the pan gasket ( my fault) yet my rear end has never had an issue. The trans was hitting super hard during the 1-2 shift due to the servo issues thus the twisted output shaft. My point is the 10 bolts will hold more than you think if the bearing mounts are braced with a girdle. If you blew one up with a cammed 5.3 something was already wrong with it imo.

 

[mattbta]

My 2004 L59 has more updated calibrations than those; isn't yours the same truck? I used a standalone WinXP laptop and TIS2000 to update mine to the latest in early 2001. Not sure it makes any difference but you'd have to look at the calibration details to see.

Mine with current calibrations highlighted green:

View attachment 389176

Yeah, there are a few updates I considered flashing but at the time I looked, there wasn’t an available XDF file for those OS which would force me into HPTuners or EFILive to turn on the fans. I may end up having to anyway, but so far, I’m only into it for the cost of the spare PCM ($65) and the bench harness ($25). The Nano is a wash because I can use it for tech2win diagnoses.

 

[Alex_M]

I’m running a 10 bolt in my blown/ cammed AWD 6.0 ‘02 Denali with the TA Performance girdle. I did shear the output shaft on my Performabuilt level 3 4l60 due to the servo passages being plugged with RTV from the pan gasket ( my fault) yet my rear end has never had an issue. The trans was hitting super hard during the 1-2 shift due to the servo issues thus the twisted output shaft. My point is the 10 bolts will hold more than you think if the bearing mounts are braced with a girdle. If you blew one up with a cammed 5.3 something was already wrong with it imo.

AWD takes a lot of load off the rear end as well. I agree, 10 bolt is a great rear end, but abuse over time adds up. Especially in a heavy truck always loaded down.

 

[mattbta]

Noticed one side of the footwell lights I added didn't seem as bright as when initially installed. Compared it to pictures I took and indeed was much dimmer. Only change in recent months was making the wiring more permanent than just sticking a spade connector into the MBEC. Almost forgot troubleshooting 101 - swapped the dim bulb with the bright one from the other side and it followed the bulb. These were jdm-a-star 194's and I replaced with auxito. Now brightness restored on both sides. Attempted to put more of the auxito in the license plate spots, but they're just a tad too long.

Also ordered auxito reverse LED's to replace the Sylvania Zevo I had in there as they were never _very_ bright. These seem much improved!

 

[Rocket Man]

Noticed one side of the footwell lights I added didn't seem as bright as when initially installed. Compared it to pictures I took and indeed was much dimmer. Only change in recent months was making the wiring more permanent than just sticking a spade connector into the MBEC. Almost forgot troubleshooting 101 - swapped the dim bulb with the bright one from the other side and it followed the bulb. These were jdm-a-star 194's and I replaced with auxito. Now brightness restored on both sides. Attempted to put more of the auxito in the license plate spots, but they're just a tad too long.

Also ordered auxito reverse LED's to replace the Sylvania Zevo I had in there as they were never _very_ bright. These seem much improved!

It’s weird, these led bulbs are supposed to last like 20 years and yet I get some that just quit way early. I’ve been doing a full led conversion on my house which is way more expensive than my trucks I found out, especially when finding ones that are compatible with my new smart dimmer system. My front porch light I’m running one from GE that has a dawn-to-dusk sensor and it quit after 6 months. I get it with a vehicle, with all the bouncing around but I feel if they don’t move they should last about forever. Arrrggghhh.

 

[latvius]

It’s weird, these led bulbs are supposed to last like 20 years and yet I get some that just quit way early. I’ve been doing a full led conversion on my house which is way more expensive than my trucks I found out, especially when finding ones that are compatible with my new smart dimmer system. My front porch light I’m running one from GE that has a dawn-to-dusk sensor and it quit after 6 months. I get it with a vehicle, with all the bouncing around but I feel if they don’t move they should last about forever. Arrrggghhh.

I gave up on dawn to dusk a while back I use a timer to replace the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KG712PI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know anything about smart systems but I've installed this switch about 3 places and it works well for me.

 

[ScottyBoy]

With a careful hand, you'll actually have better luck using a high wattage soldering iron in order to not burn components because the required contact time to melt the solder is shorter. Decreases heat dispersal through the components.

Correct. A higher wattage or adjustable wattage soldering iron with a very sharp/fine tip has worked best for me when soldering on circuit boards like instrument clusters or AC control boards. Touch it and melt that solder as fast as possible, because if you hold the iron on the circuit board for too long, you can get the circuit tracers too hot and they will literally lift right up off the board. I learned that the hard way the first time I soldered LEDs on ab AC control panel.

 

[ScottyBoy]

Boats and airplanes tend to tap the wallet pretty good sometimes... I'm sure it will still be worthwhile to refinish, so you can really enjoy the boat.
I was really impressed with the Boyo brand camera I just got from Crutchfield. It was less than $50, but the quality is pretty impressive. Great visibility at night and has nice wide angle view of things.

You will ALWAYS be forking out money if you have a boat.
So get ready to
Break
Out
Another
Thousand

 

[mattbta]

It’s weird, these led bulbs are supposed to last like 20 years and yet I get some that just quit way early. I’ve been doing a full led conversion on my house which is way more expensive than my trucks I found out, especially when finding ones that are compatible with my new smart dimmer system. My front porch light I’m running one from GE that has a dawn-to-dusk sensor and it quit after 6 months. I get it with a vehicle, with all the bouncing around but I feel if they don’t move they should last about forever. Arrrggghhh.

I usually get Cree LED's for the house -- gave up on cheapos long ago for the same reason. Unfortunately in the vehicles, only chinesium available, save for those Sylvanias.

 

[Scottydoggs]

got the new steering box and pitman arm for the front end replaced, then went for tires and an alignment. guy who did the tires and alignment took for ever to get it done. almost 2 hrs. and to top it off the alignment he did sucked donkey balls, and he broke my driver side window vent shade. still waiting for them to call be back with their cctv evidence. so i went back the next day, another guy took almost a hr to re do the alignment but at least its right this time.

 

[mattbta]

Got my spare PCM and performed a read, test write, then full flash of my modified .bin file. Success! Now to install the harness and fans and pcm. See if she runs. Not sure when I'll get around to that, though.

So, VCX Nano, Bench Harness, and PCM Hammer work great.

[05:11:03:826] PCM Hammer 021 [05:11:03:842] Tuesday, January 10 2023 @05:11:03:84 [05:11:03:857] Initializing J2534 Device [05:11:03:873] Loaded DLL [05:11:06:925] Connected to the device. [05:11:06:972] Battery Voltage is: 12.265 [05:11:07:717] Thanks for using PCM Hammer. [05:11:45:874] G:\tahoe-fans.bin [05:11:45:874] Validating 1024k file. [05:11:45:889] Start End Stored Needed Verdict Segment Name [05:11:45:921] 00000 FFFFD D2E8 D2E8 Good Operating system [05:11:45:921] 08002 162CF 4E1B 4E1B Good Engine calibration [05:11:45:936] 162D2 195FF 334C 334C Good Engine diagnostics. [05:11:45:952] 19602 1D8AF F0C5 F0C5 Good Transmission calibration [05:11:45:952] 1D8B2 1E1AF E4E5 E4E5 Good Transmission diagnostics [05:11:45:967] 1E1B2 1F6BF 5805 5805 Good Fuel system [05:11:45:997] 1F6C2 1FEAF C9E5 C9E5 Good System [05:11:46:013] 1FEB2 1FFDF 163E 163E Good Speedometer [05:11:46:029] Requesting operating system ID... [05:11:46:154] PCM and file are both for the same Hardware P01_P59 [05:11:46:169] PCM and file are both operating system 12587603 [05:11:46:388] Unlock succeeded. [05:11:46:419] Attempting switch to VPW 4x [05:11:46:497] Module 0x10 (engine controller) has agreed to enter high-speed mode. [05:11:51:528] Kernel upload 22% complete. [05:11:52:091] Kernel upload 48% complete. [05:11:52:656] Kernel upload 74% complete. [05:11:53:232] Kernel upload 100% complete. [05:11:55:560] Kernel Version: 01030501 [05:11:55:575] Kernel uploaded to PCM succesfully. [05:11:55:654] PCM and image file are both operating system 12587603 [05:11:55:716] Flash chip: AMD AM29F800BB, 1mb [05:11:55:747] Calculating CRCs from file. [05:11:55:778] Initializing CRC algorithm on PCM, this will take a minute... [05:11:55:888] Requesting CRCs from PCM. [05:11:55:903] Range File CRC PCM CRC Verdict Purpose [05:11:57:389] 0F0000-0FFFFF 8D0F8F91 8D0F8F91 Same OperatingSystem [05:11:58:869] 0E0000-0EFFFF A50F3C90 A50F3C90 Same OperatingSystem [05:12:00:374] 0D0000-0DFFFF A50F3C90 A50F3C90 Same OperatingSystem [05:12:01:857] 0C0000-0CFFFF A50F3C90 A50F3C90 Same OperatingSystem [05:12:03:346] 0B0000-0BFFFF A50F3C90 A50F3C90 Same OperatingSystem [05:12:04:825] 0A0000-0AFFFF A50F3C90 A50F3C90 Same OperatingSystem [05:12:06:357] 090000-09FFFF 7DA5C19F 7DA5C19F Same OperatingSystem [05:12:07:858] 080000-08FFFF CDDEAE4C CDDEAE4C Same OperatingSystem [05:12:09:404] 070000-07FFFF D006BDC7 D006BDC7 Same OperatingSystem [05:12:10:921] 060000-06FFFF D2B04EC0 D2B04EC0 Same OperatingSystem [05:12:12:404] 050000-05FFFF 36511E94 36511E94 Same OperatingSystem [05:12:13:899] 040000-04FFFF F6B0E81A F6B0E81A Same OperatingSystem [05:12:15:357] 030000-03FFFF A97E3395 A97E3395 Same OperatingSystem [05:12:16:858] 020000-02FFFF EE1B7BAD EE1B7BAD Same OperatingSystem [05:12:18:325] 010000-01FFFF 20301E97 16038DD8 Different Calibration [05:12:19:134] 008000-00FFFF E4FD019A 8E872C96 Different Calibration [05:12:19:415] 006000-007FFF 85B5BB36 F69DEEA6 Different Parameter [05:12:19:700] 004000-005FFF 09BAEF34 85B5BB36 Different Parameter [05:12:20:153] 000000-003FFF AE42598F AE42598F Same Boot [05:12:20:200] Processing range 010000-01FFFF [05:12:20:231] Erasing. [05:12:20:743] Writing... [05:12:43:919] Processing range 008000-00FFFF [05:12:43:950] Erasing. [05:12:44:340] Writing... [05:12:55:952] Processing range 006000-007FFF [05:12:55:984] Erasing. [05:12:56:201] Writing... [05:12:59:060] Processing range 004000-005FFF [05:12:59:092] Erasing. [05:12:59:310] Writing... [05:13:02:201] Calculating CRCs from file. [05:13:02:243] Initializing CRC algorithm on PCM, this will take a minute... [05:13:02:352] Requesting CRCs from PCM. [05:13:02:368] Range File CRC PCM CRC Verdict Purpose [05:13:03:877] 0F0000-0FFFFF 8D0F8F91 8D0F8F91 Same OperatingSystem [05:13:05:420] 0E0000-0EFFFF A50F3C90 A50F3C90 Same OperatingSystem [05:13:06:904] 0D0000-0DFFFF A50F3C90 A50F3C90 Same OperatingSystem [05:13:08:388] 0C0000-0CFFFF A50F3C90 A50F3C90 Same OperatingSystem [05:13:09:889] 0B0000-0BFFFF A50F3C90 A50F3C90 Same OperatingSystem [05:13:11:388] 0A0000-0AFFFF A50F3C90 A50F3C90 Same OperatingSystem [05:13:12:920] 090000-09FFFF 7DA5C19F 7DA5C19F Same OperatingSystem [05:13:14:417] 080000-08FFFF CDDEAE4C CDDEAE4C Same OperatingSystem [05:13:15:907] 070000-07FFFF D006BDC7 D006BDC7 Same OperatingSystem [05:13:17:385] 060000-06FFFF D2B04EC0 D2B04EC0 Same OperatingSystem [05:13:18:874] 050000-05FFFF 36511E94 36511E94 Same OperatingSystem [05:13:20:388] 040000-04FFFF F6B0E81A F6B0E81A Same OperatingSystem [05:13:21:889] 030000-03FFFF A97E3395 A97E3395 Same OperatingSystem [05:13:23:388] 020000-02FFFF EE1B7BAD EE1B7BAD Same OperatingSystem [05:13:24:951] 010000-01FFFF 20301E97 20301E97 Same Calibration [05:13:25:763] 008000-00FFFF E4FD019A E4FD019A Same Calibration [05:13:26:075] 006000-007FFF 85B5BB36 85B5BB36 Same Parameter [05:13:26:372] 004000-005FFF 09BAEF34 09BAEF34 Same Parameter [05:13:26:855] 000000-003FFF AE42598F AE42598F Same Boot [05:13:26:889] All relevant ranges are identical. [05:13:26:920] All write-request messages succeeded on the first try. You have an excellent connection to the PCM. [05:13:26:952] We're not sure how much retrying is normal for a write operation on a 1024kb PCM. [05:13:26:983] Please help by sharing your results in the PCM Hammer thread at pcmhacking.net. [05:13:27:016] Flash successful! [05:13:27:341] Clearing trouble codes. [05:13:28:467] Elapsed time 00:01:42.0627915

 

[MassHoe04]

I usually get Cree LED's for the house -- gave up on cheapos long ago for the same reason. Unfortunately in the vehicles, only chinesium available, save for those Sylvanias.

I put Sylvania LED replacements in my DRL. They have been in about 15 months. Some of the LED chips are already flickering sometimes.

 

[MassHoe04]

Catching up... Last Friday. Swapped out front rotors.

I had a concerning groaning vibration that felt like it was up front. I first was thinking CV axle(s). Had one ordered and cancelled after it came in. I was not convinced 100% it was CV.

Took to my mechanic. It wasn't as pronounced and was difficult to pinpoint. Beginning to fear the front diff. might be in trouble.

Checked hubs and spun wheels off the ground. Not hearing or feeling anything unusual with hubs, CV axles or the diff for that matter. No scraping on the brakes either.

My hunch kept going back to rotors. I was feeling pulsing feedback in the pedal and could feel some transmitting up to the steering wheel. I figured it had to be the crappy rotors I put on a year ago.

Put new rotors on and still felt not 100%. Improved, but not 100%. I thought it might have been a fail...

After a week of driving and setting the pads pretty good, it has almost disappeared. The smooth and straight rotors and having the pads settle in might have done the trick!

 

[Sam Harris]

I usually get Cree LED's for the house -- gave up on cheapos long ago for the same reason. Unfortunately in the vehicles, only chinesium available, save for those Sylvanias.

Agree, but none of them -automotive, or for home use- last anywhere near as long as advertised. They sell us on that idea, even though they are 10-20+ times as expensive as the incandescent bulbs, you’re still saving $$, because they will last 10 years! BS. Just more government marketing to us, to make the pill easier to swallow.

 

[Sam Harris]

I put Sylvania LED replacements in my DRL. They have been in about 15 months. Some of the LED chips are already flickering sometimes.

Same, I liked the Sylvanias, and they aren’t cheap! I had one fail (flickering) in my DRL, less than 3 months after installation.

 

[MassHoe04]

Same, I liked the Sylvanias, and they aren’t cheap! I had one fail (flickering) in my DRL, less than 3 months after installation.

Maybe I'll try Auxitos when they really begin to crap out. Quite a few people like that brand and most seem to have good experience with them.