OP
OP
It has been something I've always wanted to do. Not getting any younger - so I'm making it happen.brings back memories!
nice build so far
My From Start to Finish 6.0L Build
- Thread starter RAMurphy
- Start date
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OP
OP
Prior to getting started with the crankshaft install, I weighed all 8 piston rod assemblies and they are all within specs.
Trust but verify completed.
Trust but verify completed.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Getting started. Will need to some depreservation/cleanup.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
When I did mine, that was my same thought!
Never done one before, and I wanted to try my hand at it.
My 6.0 is amazing, going from a 5.3 I absolutely love it.
tons of low end torque compared to the 5.3
I also used a pretty mild camshaft.
just the stock one from a 6.2 escalade, but I used higher ratio full roller rockers with it.
On that note,
What lifters are you planning to use?
I'm having issues with the "LS7" lifters that everyone loves.
they apparently "flow more oil to the top end".
And for me, it flooded my cylinder heads, and caused lower than expected oil pressures.'
(I'll confirm that soon since I'm planning to swap them out for a different style over the winter)
I also have AFR heads with Pac double valve springs that I believe are part of the issue.
Compressing the lifters too much etc.
Also beware of the factory cam bearings.
Apparently, they don't like high lift and higher than stock valve spring pressure.
Something I might end up swapping out while I have it apart again...
OP
OP
Made some progress today. Cleaned up the block some more and removed the bearing caps. Then did some additional cleaning. Made the decision to install the camshaft at this point and ensured the bearings (non factory bearings were properly lube. Cleaned and fully lubricated the camshaft and then installed it into the block.
Bearing Caps removed:
Camshaft fully cleaned:
Camshaft Installed. I ended up temporarily installing (hand tight) the camshaft cover and timing sproket to keep the camshaft inplace. She rotates very smoothly with no hang up spots.
Bearing Caps removed:
Camshaft fully cleaned:
Camshaft Installed. I ended up temporarily installing (hand tight) the camshaft cover and timing sproket to keep the camshaft inplace. She rotates very smoothly with no hang up spots.
OP
OP
On to the crankshaft. So I needed to first plastigauge my bearings. Installed the bearings:
Cleaned the crankshaft:
Carefully lowered the crank in place:
It was here that I discovered a major problem. I found some major damage to the reluctor ring.
So, obviously this is not good. I called Texas Speed and they also stated that is a problem. They gave me two options. 1. they would send me a new relucter ring and I can have my machine shop replace the damaged one. I already look at that as a possible option, but my guy is on vacation for the next three weeks and he is already backed up. 2. They would provide me a shipping label to ship it back to them for the repair. I went that route. Should get it back early January. I asked if I could continue my bearing check and they said go for it. So I did, sorry no pictures I forgot and quite frankly I was not happy at this point. However, all bearings were at .002. Disassembled the bearing caps, cleaned all bearings surfaces. Pulled the crankshaft. Boxed it up. Placed the shipping label on it and sent it off.
So another delay to the build project.
Cleaned the crankshaft:
Carefully lowered the crank in place:
It was here that I discovered a major problem. I found some major damage to the reluctor ring.
So, obviously this is not good. I called Texas Speed and they also stated that is a problem. They gave me two options. 1. they would send me a new relucter ring and I can have my machine shop replace the damaged one. I already look at that as a possible option, but my guy is on vacation for the next three weeks and he is already backed up. 2. They would provide me a shipping label to ship it back to them for the repair. I went that route. Should get it back early January. I asked if I could continue my bearing check and they said go for it. So I did, sorry no pictures I forgot and quite frankly I was not happy at this point. However, all bearings were at .002. Disassembled the bearing caps, cleaned all bearings surfaces. Pulled the crankshaft. Boxed it up. Placed the shipping label on it and sent it off.
So another delay to the build project.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
At least you noticed it before it was too late.
OP
OP
Yep, I agree. Sometime you need that reminder to focus on the good and not the bad. Thanks for that reminder.
OP
OP
Exactly what I'm looking for - low end torque. My camshaft was a custom one from Vinci High Performance to enhance that desire. I will check but I got my lifters from his company. Confirmed the cam bearings are not the factory bearings.When I did mine, that was my same thought!
Never done one before, and I wanted to try my hand at it.
My 6.0 is amazing, going from a 5.3 I absolutely love it.
tons of low end torque compared to the 5.3
I also used a pretty mild camshaft.
just the stock one from a 6.2 escalade, but I used higher ratio full roller rockers with it.
On that note,
What lifters are you planning to use?
I'm having issues with the "LS7" lifters that everyone loves.
they apparently "flow more oil to the top end".
And for me, it flooded my cylinder heads, and caused lower than expected oil pressures.'
(I'll confirm that soon since I'm planning to swap them out for a different style over the winter)
I also have AFR heads with Pac double valve springs that I believe are part of the issue.
Compressing the lifters too much etc.
Also beware of the factory cam bearings.
Apparently, they don't like high lift and higher than stock valve spring pressure.
Something I might end up swapping out while I have it apart again...
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
And, it may be a sign to set it aside until the new year and focus on the season at hand. I find that kind of thing happens to me.Yep, I agree. Sometime you need that reminder to focus on the good and not the bad. Thanks for that reminder.
OP
OP
My wife and life partner said the same thing. She has always been able to refocus me on what is important.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
The posting where I talk about lifters, and my future replacements.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/just-fishings-09-tahoe-build-thread.125403/post-1695222
Different design than the typical LS7 style.
Identical to what came in my 5.3 gen 4 (LMG) for the non-DOD cylinder.
I found them after searching for a good lifter that can handle high spring pressure.
I found a reference to Morell lifters and found them under the summit racing branding.
That sucks about the reluctor but you can’t get in a hurry building a motor. You only get to put this part of it together once so take your time and make sure everything is done right.
OP
OP
Totally agree. Crazy thing, I'm not sure how I missed that damage while cleaning it. While cleaning the crankshaft it never came anywhere near anything that could damage that beefy ring - just my workbench (wood) and some lint free towels and rags. Hell my old crankshaft is still sitting on my garage floor and gets moved around and it basically still has no damage like that.That sucks about the reluctor but you can’t get in a hurry building a motor. You only get to put this part of it together once so take your time and make sure everything is done right.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
I had the same thing happen with a brand-new GM gen 4 6.0 crank.
They even shipped it in the factory GM wooden crate.
But somehow UPS managed to drop it at some point.
The reluctor had some slight bend to it, so it wobbled when spinning.
but it stayed within the sensor path.
I had a few little nicks here and there that weren't too bad, mostly looking to be sure the sensor can pick up a solid signal with the correct sizing.
At first, I started by filing them smooth, then as I worked it, it only got worse as i went to the next one.
The final "this reluctor is fkd" moment was when I found one of the teeth that was pretty much squashed, taking out a good 30% of the tooth.
I bought mine from summit racing, and they were nice enough to ship me out a replacement before they received the old one back reducing down time.
When you get the replacement, really look over the crank.
even check for any sort of bend that the crank might have taken.
If you happen to have a dial indicator, that would be ideal.
You will probably need one anyways for finding true tdc, crank end play, and I found it helpful to calculate how far out, or how deep the piston sits in the bore so I can order the correct head gasket for my target compression ratio.
They even shipped it in the factory GM wooden crate.
But somehow UPS managed to drop it at some point.
The reluctor had some slight bend to it, so it wobbled when spinning.
but it stayed within the sensor path.
I had a few little nicks here and there that weren't too bad, mostly looking to be sure the sensor can pick up a solid signal with the correct sizing.
At first, I started by filing them smooth, then as I worked it, it only got worse as i went to the next one.
The final "this reluctor is fkd" moment was when I found one of the teeth that was pretty much squashed, taking out a good 30% of the tooth.
I bought mine from summit racing, and they were nice enough to ship me out a replacement before they received the old one back reducing down time.
When you get the replacement, really look over the crank.
even check for any sort of bend that the crank might have taken.
If you happen to have a dial indicator, that would be ideal.
You will probably need one anyways for finding true tdc, crank end play, and I found it helpful to calculate how far out, or how deep the piston sits in the bore so I can order the correct head gasket for my target compression ratio.
OP
OP
Just received updated tracking information from FedEx, my crankshaft should make it back to Texas Speed on Wednesday.
OP
OP
So it has been a busy couple of weeks with the family and my granddaughters. Took 2+ weeks off during the Holidays to spend time with the family and the many road trips out to make that happen - Northern Maryland, Eastern Delaware and Pittsburg Pennsylvania. I needed this week back at work to rest up. I contacted Texas Speed this afternoon and they verified receipt of the crankshaft and it should be repaired early next week and sent back to me. I will post pictures later, but the little time I did have, I did start the measuring gaps to my piston rings. Three cylinders completed - all in tolerance and no corrections required. I do have the tool required, if necessary, but not needed as of yet. Waste of money - maybe, but I'm glad to have it.
Kinda wondered what happened to you, figured you were on break.
OP
OP
I try to really "unplug" when I'm on vacation - doesn't always work.Kinda wondered what happened to you, figured you were on break.
Well, the way it usually goes for me is if you have the tool you won't need it; if you don't have it, you'll need it.
