What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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I always take mine to Firestone. They have a 1-time price and a lifetime price. The lifetime price at the one near me when I was last there a few weeks ago was $199 after replacing my steering rack. I didn't have to pay because I already had the lifetime alignment on the truck I took there from when I did the front suspension back in 2019.
I have a couple of Firestone shops near me. I'll give them a call later after work.
 

Charlie207

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You like them?

They were like $64 total w/shipping for front/rear, so a good value. They fit pretty well, and I assume would be perfect for stock tire sizes.

I had to remove the rear wheels to fit those flaps, but other than that they went on pretty easily.

I wish that they made mudflaps for the front of the rear wheelwell to prevent the salt spray from getting all along the rear edge of the doors.
 

Fubar0715

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They were like $64 total w/shipping for front/rear, so a good value. They fit pretty well, and I assume would be perfect for stock tire sizes.

I had to remove the rear wheels to fit those flaps, but other than that they went on pretty easily.

I wish that they made mudflaps for the front of the rear wheelwell to prevent the salt spray from getting all along the rear edge of the doors.
Mine are en-route-should have on Wednesday and will get them installed over the weekend. Thanks for the info on your experience!!!
 

Charlie207

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Mine are en-route-should have on Wednesday and will get them installed over the weekend. Thanks for the info on your experience!!!

The only thing of note for me, was that the one pre-drilled hole on each of the rears was not going to align with the thread on the included clip (plastic push-pin to metal screw & clip), so I had to drill an extra hole on each side, but since they are new holes in plastic I'm not worried about rust.

I believe it was the 2nd hole down from the top of each rear flap.

It would have been a 30-40 minute (1 beer) job for all four corners if not for needing to remove the rear wheels.
 

Fubar0715

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The only thing of note for me, was that the one pre-drilled hole on each of the rears was not going to align with the thread on the included clip (plastic push-pin to metal screw & clip), so I had to drill an extra hole on each side, but since they are new holes in plastic I'm not worried about rust.

I believe it was the 2nd hole down from the top of each rear flap.

It would have been a 30-40 minute (1 beer) job for all four corners if not for needing to remove the rear wheels.
so, 1 beer per side then! Will need to check the fridge for adequate "resources" to complete the job!! :drink_nl:
 

13UpInSmoke

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My buddy casey's ex wife washed the hood of his black Yukon with a magic eraser. Unless you want a bunch of scratches in the paint, don't use a magic eraser on paint...
Why I said light pressure. It will remove the transferred paint
 

89Suburban

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The only thing of note for me, was that the one pre-drilled hole on each of the rears was not going to align with the thread on the included clip (plastic push-pin to metal screw & clip), so I had to drill an extra hole on each side, but since they are new holes in plastic I'm not worried about rust.

I believe it was the 2nd hole down from the top of each rear flap.

It would have been a 30-40 minute (1 beer) job for all four corners if not for needing to remove the rear wheels.

I was able to get in there with this but I know you are running larger tires.


so, 1 beer per side then! Will need to check the fridge for adequate "resources" to complete the job!! :drink_nl:


My man!! :beer::drunk:
 

Sparksalot

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My buddy casey's ex wife washed the hood of his black Yukon with a magic eraser. Unless you want a bunch of scratches in the paint, don't use a magic eraser on paint...
I think her cousin must have been the prior owner of thethirdtwin. There's a ton of swirls on the hood. I'll probably get it wrapped if it bugs me too much.
 

Charlie207

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The Kooks 3" turn-down arrived today. I cut a 1.5" notch on the end so it would slide over the tailpipe, and clamped it on. I may have it welded on to get rid of the clamp.

l5vYxF9.jpg


Before.
5m9ehM1.jpg


Perfect size/shape for what I was looking for.
W8wGWYl.jpg
 
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When I changed out the badges from red to black ones I used a 3m eraser wheel to remove the residual glue/adhesive. Is this what you guys are talking about, the magic eraser?
 

89Suburban

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pwtr02ss

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When I changed out the badges from red to black ones I used a 3m eraser wheel to remove the residual glue/adhesive. Is this what you guys are talking about, the magic eraser?
Magic eraser is what you use in the kitchen to clean stubborn stains. It's a little white block that's like a sponge

 

Sparksalot

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When I changed out the badges from red to black ones I used a 3m eraser wheel to remove the residual glue/adhesive. Is this what you guys are talking about, the magic eraser?
I learned from a decal maker that 90% rubbing alcohol also does the trick. I used that when I debadged thethirdtwin a few weeks ago.
 

Doubeleive

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The Denali seems to be driving fine after the entire front suspension/steering replacement. It's back to feeling tight and not as loose or clunky over bumps.

When I re-assembled the upper control arm/alignment cam bolts I not only cleaned up the chassis mounting points but also sprayed the bolts with Fluid Film hoping to help keep them from rusting/binding to the bushing sleeves, especially the front most bolts.

I marked the alignment tabs and measured the tie rods before disassembly, and put everything back as close as I could. It seems to drive/steer OK, but I plan on having the alignment checked.

Where's a good, reasonably priced place to have that done? The local shop two blocks from me wants like $225 to do an alignment. Seems pretty high.
that is high typical prices around here are $70-90. I know one place that will do it for $40 cash. I think the dealer here charges no more than $119 but I could be wrong
 
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Magic eraser is what you use in the kitchen to clean stubborn stains. It's a little white block that's like a sponge

Ahh, yeah I've seen/used those in the kitchen and bathroom.
that is high typical prices around here are $70-90. I know one place that will do it for $40 cash. I think the dealer here charges no more than $119 but I could be wrong
I checked with Firestone here and it's $102 with a 12 month warranty or $198 with a lifetime warranty (can have it checked/adjusted every 6 months for as long as you own it).

I wonder if the local shop near me that I usually use for other stuff that quoted me $225 if that's a lifetime deal also. I think I'll call tomorrow and ask, and also check with the dealership.
 

m1dn

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Got the oil block off broken bolt out with @89Suburban technique, thank you! :)

Tried drilling with angle drill attachment but it's almost impossible to get in there at right angle due to tight squeeze and the only bit that fits was from ez-out and it couldn't drill the bolt at all.
Couldn't squeeze anything else in there so decided to go with angle grinder with flex shaft.
Had to cut a little piece to the side of the bolt, away from oil tube holes, but finally got the bolt out.

Put in some Red silicone, new bolts and everything back together.
Added some extra oil that leaked out and everything seems smooth, no leaks so far.

Decided that while i'm down there, go back to the front diff fill plug bolt and noticed after cleaning rust off of it that it's completely rounded :)
Will have to figure out how to get it out, but that's for another series of "how messed up is messed up".
Probably get myself a welder, weld a big nut on that rounded bolt and get it out.
 

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