What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Walchit

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I checked 4 different cylinders, and besides the times I forgot to put them back on the base circle, I kept coming up with 7.300. Now you have me wishing I would have checked them all. Tedious is an understatement, lol
 

Walchit

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For the Gen4 engines, all the 5.3s have it. The Gen4 4.8 and 5.3 blocks are all the same. The 4.8 has the AFM towers cast into it, but they're capped off with the valley cover. What makes a 5.3 out of a 4.8 is a different crankshaft (for longer stroke) and different pistons (4.8 has flat tops). So, you could pick up a Gen4 engine off Marketplace for a few hundred bucks, drop it off at the machine shop to be bored and new bearings installed, then put it together with your stroker kit. Have the stock 799/243 heads cleaned and mildly worked or CNC'ed or buy aftermarket heads. Maybe $3,000 and you'll have a 383 that'll out-pull a 376 in the usable range while meeting or exceeding its efficiency, depending on your cam, head and CR choices.
Don't the gen4 5.3s have flat tops with valve reliefs?
 

iamdub

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I checked 4 different cylinders, and besides the times I forgot to put them back on the base circle, I kept coming up with 7.300. Now you have me wishing I would have checked them all. Tedious is an understatement, lol

Bruh. My ribs were sore for a week after laying over the core support for so long, turning the crank with a break bar, removing and reinstalling rockers, swapping pushrods for length checker multiple times on each rocker and repeating it for all 16...
 

iamdub

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Don't the gen4 5.3s have flat tops with valve reliefs?

Yeah, on the '09+ engines with VVT. Valid point, though. The stroker kits come with pistons, so all that's replaced anyway. My main point was that, for the same or lesser than the cost of just a used 6.2 alone (if you can find one), you can build a much better engine from an easily-sourced one.
 
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mattbta

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Just pulled the intake manifold and swapped in the OEM camshaft position sensor I've had sitting on my desk for months. I was having random no-starts on the first time with no pattern and knew the chinesium CPS the shop that did my rear main put in was likely the culprit. So far, she fires first time every time. We shall see! (New intake manifold gaskets were installed at same time.

1.5 hours from start to fire. Wonder what shop time is? I was going super slow - even had to come inside to print the torque pattern.
 

Walchit

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Bruh. My ribs were sore for a week after laying over the core support for so long, turning the crank with a break bar, removing and reinstalling rockers, swapping pushrods for length checker multiple times on each rocker and repeating it for all 16...
I'm thinking about pulling the radiator and core support to swap these engines. I just don't know if that will be more of a pita than just working around them.
 

iamdub

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I'm thinking about pulling the radiator and core support to swap these engines. I just don't know if that will be more of a pita than just working around them.

IMO, a far bigger and unnecessary PITA removing the core support. I R&R'ed mine with the fans removed and rad in place. It fit turned sideways with the mounts bolted to it. Barely, but it fit.

When working on the engine in the bay (harness, hoses, accessories, etc.), I had the wheels off so I could lower it to a more comfortable working height. When it was on the wheels, I used a 6"x6"x24" wooden block as a small stool. None of that was as painful as doing the pushrod and rocker work more recently when I had to lay on the core support for extended periods.
 

latvius

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Trying to replace the clock spring in my 2005 Denali but need help figuring out how to get this connector apart. If anyone knows can you look at the pics in the this thread and tell me?

 
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