What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Sparksalot

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If you put it on heat, do you get the same air flow or is it just on A/C?
It seems to be the same Either way. I’ve not check this before, so no reference, but the rear seems to be going great. engin was warm, so the heat was noticeable. I was feeling heat from the rear coming out more forcefully that from the dash panel vents.
 
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Do you have a cabin air filter? If so, may be blocking flow. If not, could still be a lot of crud blocking that thing in the ductwork down there that is right after where the cabin air filter goes (can't remember the name right now)
 

Just Fishing

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The excitement continues!

Working to finalize the new -8an transmission cooler lines, mostly just where the front axle needs to be.
Then I can work the front of the hoe to connect the coolers once I have everything else buttoned up.


And I do love the look of the AN lines.
1652025980317.png

Filter,
1652026023291.png

Too much line here, the bends ended up a little wider than I had hoped, but it's still good enough for now.

My double pass -8an fluid cooler install.
1652026138774.png

I used some aluminum angle to make the bracket here.
then I didn't like how much space it blocked, so I went with holes to help it hopefully pass more air.

And then the space that would have blocked airflow on the back has been trimmed down so it won't block airflow.
I didn't bother with the top, small enough I'm not worried about it much.

I'm probably going to re do this now, a flaw in my plan...
the mounting holes at the bottom seem to be for the bumper cover.
I'll see how everything looks once I bolt everything back up, but I think it changed the way the bumper sits... :jester:


Biggest PITA right now,
I want to retain the factory "tow package" cooler.
This will be a parallel cooler install.
I have a control valve for the large cooler, so it's two separate cooling circuits that split off of the filter adapter/base.

The issue, the OEM lines for the factory cooler.
Since I needed to mount the new cooler here, this pushes the factory cooler forward.

So, I either need to drill new holes for the cooler lines or make fresh ones to deal with the position change.
That means I need to order some -6an fittings to deal with it. :nolol:
 

Sparksalot

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Do you have a cabin air filter? If so, may be blocking flow. If not, could still be a lot of crud blocking that thing in the ductwork down there that is right after where the cabin air filter goes (can't remember the name right now)
Bingo! It’s been a particularly dusty spring and this is a new feature for me.
 

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Rocket Man

Mark
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The excitement continues!

Working to finalize the new -8an transmission cooler lines, mostly just where the front axle needs to be.
Then I can work the front of the hoe to connect the coolers once I have everything else buttoned up.


And I do love the look of the AN lines.
View attachment 369865

Filter,
View attachment 369866

Too much line here, the bends ended up a little wider than I had hoped, but it's still good enough for now.

My double pass -8an fluid cooler install.
View attachment 369867

I used some aluminum angle to make the bracket here.
then I didn't like how much space it blocked, so I went with holes to help it hopefully pass more air.

And then the space that would have blocked airflow on the back has been trimmed down so it won't block airflow.
I didn't bother with the top, small enough I'm not worried about it much.

I'm probably going to re do this now, a flaw in my plan...
the mounting holes at the bottom seem to be for the bumper cover.
I'll see how everything looks once I bolt everything back up, but I think it changed the way the bumper sits... :jester:


Biggest PITA right now,
I want to retain the factory "tow package" cooler.
This will be a parallel cooler install.
I have a control valve for the large cooler, so it's two separate cooling circuits that split off of the filter adapter/base.

The issue, the OEM lines for the factory cooler.
Since I needed to mount the new cooler here, this pushes the factory cooler forward.

So, I either need to drill new holes for the cooler lines or make fresh ones to deal with the position change.
That means I need to order some -6an fittings to deal with it. :nolol:
It’s pointless to use 2 coolers. One big one is the way to go. :crazy:
 

Just Fishing

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It’s pointless to use 2 coolers. One big one is the way to go. :crazy:

Not really.
I see the thought process in it, but this is something I researched.

Keep in mind that it hits 110f during the summer, and it's been under -20F during the winter.
Overcooling is a thing.

On my S10, I have a huge transmission cooler.
during the winter I would cover half of that cooler with something, otherwise the transmission fluid never goes over 70f :jester:


Just keep in mind this is just a test, proof of concept really.
Maybe I'll hate it and it won't do what I want.
Maybe it will be the bees knees.

Only one way to find out.

Big thing, I want the lowest possible cooler line pressure possible.
And this is all part of my early "trying to figure out what the fk went wrong" crap.

Now I know what happened.
Two fold.

1: Trash got into the cooler line.
2: machine shop fk'd me and did a shit job with the crank work.
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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Not sure if there’s anything to this, but…
The AC on thecopcar seems kinda slow. The air coming out is chilly, but doesn’t seem to be moving fast, unless I turn the fan way up. I usually leave it right in the middle.
I t does get cool inside, but it’s taking a little longer than before.
I pulled the gauges out this morning to test it. Compressor ON, it reads 175 on high and 32 on low. Compressor OFF, it reads a bit under 150 oh high And 55 on low.
the empty can on the gauges had a bit in it apparently. It got chilly for a bit. I didn’t see any pressure changes, so it wasn’t much.
Mine has been like this for a while also. First couple clicks hardly do anything. But the last two are loud and move a lot of air.
 

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