pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Me either lol.No idea how to do that tbh.
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Me either lol.No idea how to do that tbh.
Wait, I forgot you'll be doing this in the scanner. In the vehicle functions you can command gears (remember you doing this on the 4l60?). I'm not sure if it has the option for "park" or not, but thats where I'd look.No idea how to do that tbh.
That's what I was afraid of.Yeah pretty sure you need to follow the instructions exactly including the parking brake and have it in park. I remember now that I did do it once when I swapped my PCM on my 02 and I tried it without setting the parking brake because I figured since it didn’t work there was no point. It didn’t perform the relearn until I did that. I have since swapped my original PCM back in and I don’t think I ever did the relearn with this one. I’ll do it today just to be sure it’s done.
Wait, I forgot you'll be doing this in the scanner. In the vehicle functions you can command gears (remember you doing this on the 4l60?). I'm not sure if it has the option for "park" or not, but thats where I'd look.
Ah, possible but maybe not. Give it a shot. If you have to have the signal, you can probably find which pin triggers that on the pcm and maybe ground that wire?That's what I was afraid of.
Yes I believe I can command it but IDK if the ECU needs a signal return to confirm its in park or not.
Ah, possible but maybe not. Give it a shot. If you have to have the signal, you can probably find which pin triggers that on the pcm and maybe ground that wire?
Get r done!I was thinking that, I need to reinspect my trans temp sensor wire anyway I think it's becoming intermittent. A lot of this stuff will have to wait till after the head swap because it's getting tore down Saturday for sure.
I'm super excited to drop the oil pan and see what's up, I'd be tickled to death if I saw ARP bolts or studs anywhere in the bottom end, or even better something forged lol.Get r done!
Hey, just be happy if its super clean and you see no bearing material. The rest will be a bonus! lolI'm super excited to drop the oil pan and see what's up, I'd be tickled to death if I saw ARP bolts or studs anywhere in the bottom end, or even better something forged lol.
Hey, just be happy if its super clean and you see no bearing material. The rest will be a bonus! lol
Are you doing the o-ring? That why you're taking the pan off? Good thing its 2wd, those are cake!
I'm sure its fineYep O-ring is the main reason, not because I think it's bad but because I don't know its history, and if it's 17years old I'd rather replace it now than when a rod loses oil and a piston smacks the new heads. I'm also just really really curious how the bottom end and oil pan look.
Dropped it to 6,500 and did a semi-slow neutral rev up till I felt the limiter kick on, then I let the RPM naturally fall and cycled the ignition which it told me to. I never got any indication that it completed the process or whatever but I guess I will log later and see if anything changed.
**Edit** Did a little more research and it clearly didn't work, it's supposed to set a 4k fuel cut when it's in test mode. Gonna try a couple more things such as holding the brake while doing it and not clicking the "OK" box. Seems people have all sorts of funky issues trying this.
What's the porting do?Ported the oil pump outlet and checked to see what spring this $63 M295 has. The blue spring should make 60psi which is more then enough for a basic LQ4 I think. I cleaned, loctited, and torqued everything back down so it’s ready to go when I get started in the Tahoe later.
Looks cool duhWhat's the porting do?
What's the porting do?
Looks cool duh
Idk I stumbled upon an LS1 tech thread about it and figured I might as well, the outlet had some really sharp edges so it can’t hurt. WS6Store sells ported ones for $100 more so I just saved some money I guess.
I’m afraid if I started with that, I’d find myself thinking about every other corner and bend the oil goes through in the block and drive myself crazy so idk if I’ll do it if I ever get around to building an engine.Probably not much in the grand scheme. But, it's still (a relatively thick) fluid being squeezed through orifices and around corners. So, why not help it move more freely? I was after volume with mine so this would surely increase that.
I used an M295HV. I ported the intake side as well because of that large step in the way.
View attachment 362460
View attachment 362461
Outlet:
View attachment 362462
Later improved areas:
View attachment 362463

I’m afraid if I started with that, I’d find myself thinking about every other corner and bend the oil goes through in the block and drive myself crazy so idk if I’ll do it if I ever get around to building an engine.![]()
See? You wouldn’t know if you didn’t look!This reminded me of my mis-aligned oil galley: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1428047
![]()
![]()
See? You wouldn’t know if you didn’t look!