What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Sparksalot]

It was still leaking a bit because I couldn't reach the area effectively to work it in. Not badly, since I only lost 2-3 quarts of coolant in the 500 mile beeline home.

@Geotrash My real fear was to get it sealed up, then have it burst somewhere else I could not get at, or simply blow the tank apart. It this was an old school brass radiator, I would have felt more comfortable.

Back in the day, I was learing the trade of radiator repair. Disassembly, rodding out, reassembly, test for leaks, fix any, etc. Aluminum radiators came along, and they became a wear item to remove and replace.

 

[Geotrash]

@Geotrash My real fear was to get it sealed up, then have it burst somewhere else I could not get at, or simply blow the tank apart. It this was an old school brass radiator, I would have felt more comfortable.

Back in the day, I was learing the trade of radiator repair. Disassembly, rodding out, reassembly, test for leaks, fix any, etc. Aluminum radiators came along, and they became a wear item to remove and replace.

I think it's a great temporary repair - especially while out on the road. I always keep a tube of JB Weld in my toolkit for trips for that reason.

Question for you given your radiator experience: how long do you think one of these Cold Case radiators will last, assuming no hidden quality issues? I have one in my 2012, and love it.

 

[Sparksalot]

I think it's a great temporary repair - especially while out on the road. I always keep a tube of JB Weld in my toolkit for trips for that reason.

Question for you given your radiator experience: how long do you think one of these Cold Case radiators will last, assuming no hidden quality issues? I have one in my 2012, and love it.

I really like how it’s made. I dont see any issues with the way I use thecopcar and longevity of the radiator.

I was thinking about a preemptive change for theothertwin as well, but I’m not sure how long I’ll end up keeping it.

 

[Rocket Man]

The stock plastic radiators last 150-200,000 miles so I would think the Cold Case ones would last twice that. I replaced my stocker at 160k just for maintenance and disassembled it to inspect. It still looked pretty much new on the inside including the oil and trans coolers. It never did leak. I went back with what got me through the first 160k, OEM.

 

[Geotrash]

The stock plastic radiators last 150-200,000 miles so I would think the Cold Case ones would last twice that. I replaced my stocker at 160k just for maintenance and disassembled it to inspect. It still looked pretty much new on the inside including the oil and trans coolers. It never did leak. I went back with what got me through the first 160k, OEM.

I'd have done that too, except I needed more cooling capacity than stock for towing heavy. GM OEM parts are really quite good.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Should be good on oil changes for a while.

 

[StrkAliteN]

Should be good on oil changes for a while.

I buy my OEM oil filters 1-2 at a time for my Yukon. I recently switched to Mobil 1 synthetic and only change the oil once a year ( i only drive maybe 4K miles a year )

Back when i had my '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo ( 4.0 litre inline 6cyl ) I bought the Factory oil filters by the case. Owned that rig from 1995 to 2007, and put 245K miles on it.
One of the best vehicles I have ever owned. Always started with a flip turn of the key and ran perfect its entire life span for me. Easily had the best 4 wheel drive traction system I have personally ever driven. think it was called quadr-trac or something. You simply could NOT make that thing lose traction in the snow / ice or off road conditions. it was amazing. Sold it to the 1st person to look at / test drive it ( full ask of I think $3500 ) - I paid $24K for it in '95 brand new fleet ordered via a credit union. 1st and only vehicle I have ever bought / owned without seeing it 1st.

 

[gooffeyguy]

I buy my OEM oil filters 1-2 at a time for my Yukon. I recently switched to Mobil 1 synthetic and only change the oil once a year ( i only drive maybe 4K miles a year )

Back when i had my '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo ( 4.0 litre inline 6cyl ) I bought the Factory oil filters by the case. Owned that rig from 1995 to 2007, and put 245K miles on it.
One of the best vehicles I have ever owned. Always started with a flip turn of the key and ran perfect its entire life span for me. Easily had the best 4 wheel drive traction system I have personally ever driven. think it was called quadr-trac or something. You simply could NOT make that thing lose traction in the snow / ice or off road conditions. it was amazing. Sold it to the 1st person to look at / test drive it ( full ask of I think $3500 ) - I paid $24K for it in '95 brand new fleet ordered via a credit union. 1st and only vehicle I have ever bought / owned without seeing it 1st.

I think those had an all-wheel-drive system used a viscous coupler in the transfer case.
I had a ' 95 Grand Cherokee with the 5.2l (?) V8. Those were great in the snow and off road, but didn't have a full frame. It got rear ended, hit mostly on the receiver hitch, causing the rear subframe to bend downward and the rear doors would have a huge gap at the roof when closed. It was totalled by the insurance company. I bought my 2001 Yukon after that.

 

[Just Fishing]

My hoe is running again...

Got the gauges and cooler line filter installed.
I was surprised to see that the cooler flow goes to the radiator first, and then to the external cooler.
I thought it was supposed to be the other way around?

Took the hoe for a little drive around the block after letting the engine fully warm up.

the cooler line pressure was right around 40-50psi idle.
And went up to 60psi when driving.
I think spec is to be under 130psi...
This is of course w/o any transmission coolers.

 

[gooffeyguy]

My hoe is running again...

Got the gauges and cooler line filter installed.
I was surprised to see that the cooler flow goes to the radiator first, and then to the external cooler.
I thought it was supposed to be the other way around?

Took the hoe for a little drive around the block after letting the engine fully warm up.

the cooler line pressure was right around 40-50psi idle.
And went up to 60psi when driving.
I think spec is to be under 130psi...
This is of course w/o any transmission coolers.

Yup, radiator first then external cooler. This helps it get up to operating temp quicker from the warm engine coolant.

 

[iamdub]

My hoe is running again...

Got the gauges and cooler line filter installed.
I was surprised to see that the cooler flow goes to the radiator first, and then to the external cooler.
I thought it was supposed to be the other way around?

Took the hoe for a little drive around the block after letting the engine fully warm up.

the cooler line pressure was right around 40-50psi idle.
And went up to 60psi when driving.
I think spec is to be under 130psi...
This is of course w/o any transmission coolers.

External cooler cools more than the in-rad cooler. If it went into the external cooler first, then to the rad cooler, the trans fluid would get heated back up. Also, the rad cooler cools it first so the external cooler has less heat to remove, making it work even better.

 

[wjburken]

External cooler cools more than the in-rad cooler. If it went into the external cooler first, then to the rad cooler, the trans fluid would get heated back up. Also, the rad cooler cools it first so the external cooler has less heat to remove, making it work even better.

 

[Mickey_7106]

Im in the market for control arms. Never seen these adjustable ball joints. When would someone need these? Im at stock height on 22s with the autoride.

 

[alpha_omega]

Im in the market for control arms. Never seen these adjustable ball joints. When would someone need these? Im at stock height on 22s with the autoride.

Usually for a front caster and camber adjustment. It makes for an easier alignment. Hopefully your caster/camber isn’t so far out of wack that you would need a set of adjustable ball joints.

 

[alpha_omega]

I think those had an all-wheel-drive system used a viscous coupler in the transfer case.
I had a ' 95 Grand Cherokee with the 5.2l (?) V8. Those were great in the snow and off road, but didn't have a full frame. It got rear ended, hit mostly on the receiver hitch, causing the rear subframe to bend downward and the rear doors would have a huge gap at the roof when closed. It was totalled by the insurance company. I bought my 2001 Yukon after that.

My dad had a ‘95 as well. Nice truck…terrible gas mileage!

 

[Monz11]

Finally got ICT Billet brackets back from the powdercoater, installed today.

 

[Rocket Man]

Finally got ICT Billet brackets back from the powdercoater, installed today.
View attachment 360130

Lookin good. Are you gonna get everything done in time before you move?

 

[cmatt]

Had an intake manifold leak to tackle today. Sounded like a choo choo train on a cold start when the engine idled down. Lot of caked on dirt and remnants of disintegrated wire loom under the manifold. Three of the ten vlom bolts were finger tight SMH.
Did an injection service yesterday in anticipation. At 150k miles, the upper part of the cylinder head ports still had some gunk on the walls, but you could see where the injector spray was hitting them. The valves were pretty clean as expected.

 

[89Suburban]

Had an intake manifold leak to tackle today. Sounded like a choo choo train on a cold start when the engine idled down. Lot of caked on dirt and remnants of disintegrated wire loom under the manifold. Three of the ten vlom bolts were finger tight SMH.
Did an injection service yesterday in anticipation. At 150k miles, the upper part of the cylinder head ports still had some gunk on the walls, but you could see where the injector spray was hitting them. The valves were pretty clean as expected.
View attachment 360137

Nice! Check the rear coolant crossover gaskets too. Probably wouldn’t hurt to invest in a new VLOM while you have it apart but that’s up to you. And the oil pressure switch and screen too. Did you have any of the disintegrated foam under there?

 

[Mickey_7106]

Usually for a front caster and camber adjustment. It makes for an easier alignment. Hopefully your caster/camber isn’t so far out of wack that you would need a set of adjustable ball joints.

I never had this truck aligned so i don't know if that's a common problem. Thinking of dropping the front 1 inch and Leveling the rear in the future. I'm assuming that's when I'll want these control arms