gooffeyguy
Tom
Gorilla or Duct tape would probably work too, lol
Or just get mats that work like they're supposed to
Or just get mats that work like they're supposed to
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Possibly. I keep forgetting about them. I just don't wanna invest much of anything, money or labor, into these mats. A few years ago, I tried softening them with a heat gun to reshape the walls flexed outward. This seemed to have helped a lot, but the mat was pushed out of shape and bent again with Jenn driving it. I never bothered to reshape them again and secure them in place.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Yes, they would work. I had some and sent them back only because they wouldn’t work in the weather tech hold down location.
I ended up grinding the spikes off the wethertech retainers and attaching them through the carpet with plastic screws and washers.
Good trick!
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Swapped wheels and snow tires from my outgoing Nissan Armada onto my Yukon. They share the same bolt pattern, so it was only a two beer job in the snow. Having many jacks makes it easier.
Nissan is going to the recycler as soon as I can schedule it with AAA.
Nissan is going to the recycler as soon as I can schedule it with AAA.
RooTBeeRthe1st
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Took a lot longer than anticipated. But got the 14 bolts in and drove it home finally.
Unfortunately I do need to adjust the dust covers, because the wrecking yard and the ever-loving crud out of them, and the driver side is for sure rubbing somewhere when I drive, and the passenger side I heard squeak on the highway next to k rail, but not constantly.
I'll have to disassemble the 10 bolt at a later date and see what actually happened.
It's ridiculous how much of that stuff swaps over.
From what I had read, I was going to need some sort of conversion u-jointd. This was not the case. I could have just pulled the straps off the 10 bolt, left the U-joint in the drive shaft and used those same straps and U-joint right back in the 14 bolt.
So a quick trip to the auto parts store to grab a Spicer 1350, and reuse the stock straps, and it's smooth as silk.
The only thing that needed any sort of change, was the spot the brake lines mount on the diff bracket.
But that was easily Bent by hand and bolted right up.
Unfortunately I do need to adjust the dust covers, because the wrecking yard and the ever-loving crud out of them, and the driver side is for sure rubbing somewhere when I drive, and the passenger side I heard squeak on the highway next to k rail, but not constantly.
I'll have to disassemble the 10 bolt at a later date and see what actually happened.
It's ridiculous how much of that stuff swaps over.
From what I had read, I was going to need some sort of conversion u-jointd. This was not the case. I could have just pulled the straps off the 10 bolt, left the U-joint in the drive shaft and used those same straps and U-joint right back in the 14 bolt.
So a quick trip to the auto parts store to grab a Spicer 1350, and reuse the stock straps, and it's smooth as silk.
The only thing that needed any sort of change, was the spot the brake lines mount on the diff bracket.
But that was easily Bent by hand and bolted right up.
Attachments
I would replace those straps with new ones ASAP. You’re supposed to mark them when you remove them if you’re going to reuse them on the same u-joints and if you replace the u-joints you’re supposed to replace the straps because they conform to the shape of the cups and if they don’t go back the exact same way they get weakened. I had one break on me and it almost took out the oil pan ( front drive shaft) Of course I’m throwing down a bit more HP but better safe than sorry.
RooTBeeRthe1st
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Yeah, I plan to.
I still have some other things I want to go through and make sure is all good before I put it through its paces.
Mine broke on the first good romp of the throttle. I hadn’t gone 1/16 of a mile. In other words, don’t wait. A flopping driveline caused a lot of damage. Luckily I was only going about 30.
Geoffsfas10
Full Access Member
Did an oil change today. While laying under it looking at things i discovered the source of my suspension clunk...BOTH sway bar end links are GONE haha. Whoops.
Malik112099
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I got new tires over the weekend and the shop wouldnt do an alignment cause my control arms (and other components) are old and out of tolerance (originals). I ordered a full 12 piece control arm kit for my local shop to install next week.
So I guess when the oil pick up tube just falls out when you remove the fasteners prob means the o-ring should be replaced? Lol
Replacing my oil pan gasket to address a seep that escalated into a decent leak (oil spots on the concrete) fairly quickly.
Replacing my oil pan gasket to address a seep that escalated into a decent leak (oil spots on the concrete) fairly quickly.
Geoffsfas10
Full Access Member
i do not envy you on that one..there is ALOT of issh in the way of that pan
The o ring should be replaced anytime the pan is off imo but yeah definitely in that case.
Has anybody ever removed any part of the firewall insulation? Mine is hanging down and ******* me off.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I'd think it would be fine. Might have a little more noise or/and heat, but I don't think it would be much more noticeable.
I drove faster through Jersey and filled in Delaware when I came home from Florida last month....Although, in retrospect, the price of fuel was cheaper in NJ so I guess my theory was a fail......Story of my life!
Yeah it’s funny- you would think that a state that has attendants pumping your gas would have more expensive fuel than one right next to it that has self serve. But Oregon’s gas , with attendants, is consistently less expensive- by an average of 10 cents per gallon- than our neighbors to the north, Washington which is self serve. I see a lot of Washington drivers filling up here.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
It all depends on the road taxes. Pa doesn't pump your gas but their gas is more expensive then Jersey's. When I lived in Pa I always filled up in Jersey. Back then it was .12-.14 cents a gallon cheaper.
