What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Bill 1960]

Searching for advice. Need to travel about 50 miles to get my tires replaced. How much damage will i cause if i run the stock 17" (265/75R17)spare on the front left while my right side is a stock size 22" (285/45R22)?
Its a 4x4 but stays on 2wd most of the year unless we see heavy rain.

I vaguely remember this difference in size being and issue. Can't remember if it was for awd vehicles only

Only an issue for AWD.

Or if on the rear with the G80 locker.

 

[George B]

Searching for advice. Need to travel about 50 miles to get my tires replaced. How much damage will i cause if i run the stock 17" (265/75R17)spare on the front left while my right side is a stock size 22" (285/45R22)?
Its a 4x4 but stays on 2wd most of the year unless we see heavy rain.

I vaguely remember this difference in size being and issue. Can't remember if it was for awd vehicles only

You will be fine to run that distance. The OD of both tires is about the same.

 

[George B]

I’ve had a leaking seal at the output shaft of the front diff since I bought it. Driver’s side. How hard is that seal to replace? Can it be done in place?

View attachment 356578

That is a fairly easy repair. You will need to unbolt the axle from the flange and swing the axle out of the way. Then that stub shaft with the flange pulls out. I would use a GM seal on that and take a look at the bearing that shaft rides in when you have the seal out.

EDIT: I removed some incorrect information.

 

[Doubeleive]

Searching for advice. Need to travel about 50 miles to get my tires replaced. How much damage will i cause if i run the stock 17" (265/75R17)spare on the front left while my right side is a stock size 22" (285/45R22)?
Its a 4x4 but stays on 2wd most of the year unless we see heavy rain.

I vaguely remember this difference in size being and issue. Can't remember if it was for awd vehicles only

you should be fine but I would put the odd ball on the front just to be on the safe side, but ya typically it only applies to awd

 

[swathdiver]

It's more likely to be an actual leak than a faulty pressure sensor. Maybe she left the cap loose recently, fixed it, but the code is resting at "pending" status until the drive cycles are completed?

I cleared it, will have another look though.

Your Tech 2 can read the fuel pressure sensor value. If you want to see it change, check for response by running an evap purge and seal.

So is it reading fuel pressure or the pressure in the tank?

Alternatively you can command the purge valve open and the vent closed while idling to see a change.

Good idea! Thanks!

 

[Doubeleive]

That is a fairly easy repair. You will need to pull the axle out which will require removing the strut and sway bar end link. Then that stub shaft with the flange pulls out. I would use a GM seal on that and take a look at the bearing that shaft rides in when you have the seal out.

why would you need to remove the strut and end link? once those bolts are off the axle can be simply moved out of the way, I could see removing the end link and maybe unbolt the shock end so you can move stuff around easier.

 

[George B]

Deleted

 

[George B]

why would you need to remove the strut and end link? once those bolts are off the axle can be simply moved out of the way, I could see removing the end link and maybe unbolt the shock end so you can move stuff around easier.

I edited my post. You are correct.

 

[iamdub]

I cleared it, will have another look though.

So is it reading fuel pressure or the pressure in the tank?

Good idea! Thanks!

Tank pressure. It's basically a MAP sensor for the tank.

 

[Fless]

Tank pressure. It's basically a MAP sensor for the tank.

^^^ This @swathdiver. I added the word "tank" to my original post.

 

[alpha_omega]

How many of you have replaced the rear driveshaft and if so, did you also replace the yoke as well?
I don’t even need to replace the U-Joints as of yet, but since I’m doing the rest of the suspension and all the fluids I might as well at least replace the rear joints as well. The d/s could use a new coat of paint, but depending on the cost and instead of ******* around with everything else, I’m debating just throwing a new one in there already pre-assembled.

I know on some of the Yukons they had aluminum replacements, but I’m not sure if mine falls under that category.

 

[alpha_omega]

Also found code P0452 hiding in there, it too passed and started working again. Now do I buy just the pressure switch or a whole new fuel pump assembly and lock ring?

You can get that code from having a bad evap canister. There are a few different evap codes that can trigger from any number of problems throughout the evap system. Rarely is it the actual pump, unless you’ve gotten charcoal bits in the system.

 

[alpha_omega]

bit the bullet and ordered the morimoto headlights, best price I could find "summit", not in stock anywhere of course won't have them until January (maybe), experience tells me these things can get pushed back even longer
View attachment 356491

Do you get the same distance out of them as you did from your others? I know they are brighter, but sometimes LED can have a different viewable distance due to “light spread”.
Also, did you have to buy their harness as well, or do the lights come with them? I know they have harnesses, but I wasn’t sure if those were only for HID.

 

[Doubeleive]

Do you get the same distance out of them as you did from your others? I know they are brighter, but sometimes LED can have a different viewable distance due to “light spread”.
Also, did you have to buy their harness as well, or do the lights come with them? I know they have harnesses, but I wasn’t sure if those were only for HID.

currently I have HID's in the stock housing they are plenty bright, one of the housings that is about 2 years old has a small spot of cancer (yellow spot) a replacement would be around $150 or so if I shop around I am not any good at sanding and coating and all that stuff i would just rather replace it, so that is my excuse for just buying the morimoto's instead, the morimotos are plug-n-play with led projectors and supposedly have resistors built in for the blinker which makes no sense because they do not come with the blinker bulbs, either way it is no problem I have resistors and led blinker bulbs already that can just be swapped over, the morimoto have a led drl which just needs to be plugged into the fuse box, per the video I watched when the headlights are turned on the drl led reduces to 50% power, I may wire that separate so it does not reduce 50% but it remains to be seen if that is a option or not it depends on how it is wired inside the housing it maybe wired to the projector in some fashion. i have the morimoto tail lights on the Silverado they have been on there about a year and the quality seems very good so I hope these headlights are equally as good.

 

[swathdiver]

currently I have HID's in the stock housing they are plenty bright, one of the housings that is about 2 years old has a small spot of cancer (yellow spot) a replacement would be around $150 or so...

You haven't been shopping for factory headlamps lately! They're about double that now, each!

I paid almost $600 for a pair earlier this year when the OEM ones were quite scarce.

 

[Doubeleive]

You haven't been shopping for factory headlamps lately! They're about double that now, each!

I paid almost $600 for a pair earlier this year when the OEM ones were quite scarce.

capa cetified I see with just a quick search for $127 oem for $200 (each), I have search kung foo I can get oem for about $150 ish if I search enough

 

[swathdiver]

capa cetified I see with just a quick search for $127 oem for $200 (each), I have search kung foo I can get oem for about $150 ish if I search enough

Wow, just looked again and still see them nearly $300 for the least expensive and many over $400 for the Denali lights even. Search Kung Foo?

 

[Doubeleive]

Wow, just looked again and still see them nearly $300 for the least expensive and many over $400 for the Denali lights even. Search Kung Foo?

ya searching by 07 2007, 08 2008, 09, 2009, 10, 2010 etc, etc, part number, new part number, old part number, yukon, denali, there is a lot of ways to search

 

[Sam Harris]

I like the black housing too. White is a bit much. I like the high LED instead. Can’t use HID for high because of the warm up time. That’s why the shutter is the high beam option for HID.


Very excited for you and can’t wait to see the finished product. I just bookmarked their site for possible future work.

Same..! Stoked..!

 

[lowh07]

Same..! Stoked..!

Hahaha I had a nightmare last night that he inversed the black/white that I ordered. Guess I’ve been thinking about them a lot. Been wanting to do this for years...! Black Friday saved me a bunch for the win! It was time.