2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

[Dantheman1540]

Got the intake back in and everything cleaned, still does the no start on first crank about 1 in 3 times.

Also got the second cheap but slightly nicer catch can plumbed in line after the first can and with the cheap glass filter between it and the intake so I can monitor leak by at a glance. The second can is just temporarily zip tied to the brake master to test the effectiveness.

Got the JTR custom metal Ts in but realized I didn’t have nearly enough tension clamps so I had to use cheap work gear clamps until I order something cleaner looking. Actually only put one metal T in for now because it takes way more clamps than I had.

Lastly I noticed a nice hairline crack down my radiator tank so I guess it’s Cold Case time. Debating adding oem oil cooler lines and getting the radiator model with the internal OC. Anyone have the part numbers for the OEam OC lines?

 

[Dantheman1540]

Found the lines and got the radiator ordered, found it a little cheaper on Americantrucks.com. Hopefully the cold case is as nice as the Mishimotos and these lines aren’t overly annoying to install.

 

[Fless]

Just be sure the rad has a restriction in the fitting (or your hose) that returns to the surge tank. Otherwise it'll have trouble heating up.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Just be sure the rad has a restriction in the fitting (or your hose) that returns to the surge tank. Otherwise it'll have trouble heating up.

Does the factory radiator have a restriction in it? The truck typically runs cold around 170 with the 160* t stat I’m hoping it doesn’t run colder with a better radiator. 170 is already kinda low as far as efficiency of the burn goes and mpg yada yada bs.

 

[Dantheman1540]

In a better investigation of the spark system I swapped coil packs on both banks with known good ones and noticed a severely burned #7 wire concealed by the heat shield I tried to protect it with. I was hoping this was the cranking issue but it was not.

I did manage to finally get the trans temp sensor wired in and it works! I looked everywhere for diagrams and info on which wires I needed to splice but since the factory auto trans harness has been Clintoned “aka disappeared” I was struggling to figure anything out. A buddy from PT.net found the pin out of the ECU and it clearly says #51 Yellow/BLK trans temp. Easy enough right? Well I didn’t confirm the pin and insteaded reached into the loom and grabbed the first yel/blk wire and spliced in……. It was #6 injector wire uhhhgggg. Fixed that and got spliced into the correct wire then grounded the other side of the sensor to the frame. Sensor reads great and the temp stayed low for my 40min round trip to the store and back. During which I did multiple 40-100 pulls and only managed to get it to 124*.

Somehow while searching for the missing trans harness I messed with the VSS wires which had been spliced by the previous owner and I have a “service brake system” message but it’s more annoying than anything and should be fixed next weekend.

Last bit of bad news is I still have the weird no crank issue and I’m honestly lost as to what it could be.

 

[Tonyrodz]

In a better investigation of the spark system I swapped coil packs on both banks with known good ones and noticed a severely burned #7 wire concealed by the heat shield I tried to protect it with. I was hoping this was the cranking issue but it was not.

I did manage to finally get the trans temp sensor wired in and it works! I looked everywhere for diagrams and info on which wires I needed to splice but since the factory auto trans harness has been Clintoned “aka disappeared” I was struggling to figure anything out. A buddy from PT.net found the pin out of the ECU and it clearly says #51 Yellow/BLK trans temp. Easy enough right? Well I didn’t confirm the pin and insteaded reached into the loom and grabbed the first yel/blk wire and spliced in……. It was #6 injector wire uhhhgggg. Fixed that and got spliced into the correct wire then grounded the other side of the sensor to the frame. Sensor reads great and the temp stayed low for my 40min round trip to the store and back. During which I did multiple 40-100 pulls and only managed to get it to 124*.

Somehow while searching for the missing trans harness I messed with the VSS wires which had been spliced by the previous owner and I have a “service brake system” message but it’s more annoying than anything and should be fixed next weekend.

Last bit of bad news is I still have the weird no crank issue and I’m honestly lost as to what it could be.

That's a handy diagram to have. Have a complete link to it?

 

[Dantheman1540]

That's a handy diagram to have. Have a complete link to it?

I think this is the site he found it on https://lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm

I need to figure out cruise control next

 

[Rocket Man]

In a better investigation of the spark system I swapped coil packs on both banks with known good ones and noticed a severely burned #7 wire concealed by the heat shield I tried to protect it with. I was hoping this was the cranking issue but it was not.

I did manage to finally get the trans temp sensor wired in and it works! I looked everywhere for diagrams and info on which wires I needed to splice but since the factory auto trans harness has been Clintoned “aka disappeared” I was struggling to figure anything out. A buddy from PT.net found the pin out of the ECU and it clearly says #51 Yellow/BLK trans temp. Easy enough right? Well I didn’t confirm the pin and insteaded reached into the loom and grabbed the first yel/blk wire and spliced in……. It was #6 injector wire uhhhgggg. Fixed that and got spliced into the correct wire then grounded the other side of the sensor to the frame. Sensor reads great and the temp stayed low for my 40min round trip to the store and back. During which I did multiple 40-100 pulls and only managed to get it to 124*.

Somehow while searching for the missing trans harness I messed with the VSS wires which had been spliced by the previous owner and I have a “service brake system” message but it’s more annoying than anything and should be fixed next weekend.

Last bit of bad news is I still have the weird no crank issue and I’m honestly lost as to what it could be.

I kept getting a burned plug wire or two where they would sit too close to the headers even with those fiberglass heat shields. I ended up finding some short wires that are the perfect length from coil to plug with no slack so they stay centered. No more burned wires. I heard Accel makes some but I like these.


LS Engine 10 mm Titanium High Heat Performance Spark Plug Ignition Wires Set

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[Dantheman1540]

I kept getting a burned plug wire or two where they would sit too close to the headers even with those fiberglass heat shields. I ended up finding some short wires that are the perfect length from coil to plug with no slack so they stay centered. No more burned wires. I heard Accel makes some but I like these.


LS Engine 10 mm Titanium High Heat Performance Spark Plug Ignition Wires Set

Pardon Our Interruption...

Those are nice! I need to bite the bullet and get some but I have a big stash of cheap wires that I’m slowly burning through. Maybe one day I’ll be able to justify nice wires lol.

 

[Rocket Man]

Those are nice! I need to bite the bullet and get some but I have a big stash of cheap wires that I’m slowly burning through. Maybe one day I’ll be able to justify nice wires lol.

I got tired of the frustration. There’s nothing worse than being on the way somewhere and some ricer is messing with ya on the freeway so you change lanes, punch it and instead of boost you get rat-a-tat-rat-a-tat-tat-tat as a wire decides to not work so well and the misfires hit.

 

[Dantheman1540]

I got tired of the frustration. There’s nothing worse than being on the way somewhere and some ricer is messing with ya on the freeway so you change lanes, punch it and instead of boost you get rat-a-tat-rat-a-tat-tat-tat as a wire decides to not work so well and the misfires hit.

I’m amazed all the burnt wires I’ve had on that #7 I don’t think any have shown signs of misfires that I noticed driving. Maybe mines already so slow even slower isn’t noticeable lol.

I would like matching wires again tho, just for the cool points!

 

[Rocket Man]

I’m amazed all the burnt wires I’ve had on that #7 I don’t think any have shown signs of misfires that I noticed driving. Maybe mines already so slow even slower isn’t noticeable lol.

I would like matching wires again tho, just for the cool points!

Man if I get a wire that burns a spot in the insulation I swear it sounds like the engine is coming apart as soon as boost rolls on. If I drive it slow no problem. So I can drive but it’s like having nitrous but being out of nitrous. Im running NGK TR6 plugs though which are a bit cold, don’t know if that matters.

 

[Dantheman1540]

I’m running tr55s but gapped a tad tighter .045ish. I think the boost is the difference, that’s a lot more cylinder pressure I assume.

 

[Rocket Man]

I’m running tr55s but gapped a tad tighter .045ish. I think the boost is the difference, that’s a lot more cylinder pressure I assume.

Yeah you need to getcha sum lol.

 

[Fless]

Does the factory radiator have a restriction in it? The truck typically runs cold around 170 with the 160* t stat I’m hoping it doesn’t run colder with a better radiator. 170 is already kinda low as far as efficiency of the burn goes and mpg yada yada bs.

Yes, the OE radiator has the restriction in it. More info here:

2006 Tahoe Cooling system running to cool. 5.3L Flex

I got a 2006 Tahoe 5.3L flex that needed an engine. found a remanufactured (z code engine) had installed with new water pump, radiator and thermostat ( have replaced 3 times wit factory 178 degree stat). Now the engine runs about 165 to 175 on the road. When idling it will get up to about 210...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Someone on the forum used a part from a TPMS sensor, I think it was, to make the restriction for an aftermarket radiator. @kbuskill maybe?

 

[Dantheman1540]

Yeah you need to getcha sum lol.

Boost? Yes I do need boost, everybody needs boost!

Yes, the OE radiator has the restriction in it. More info here:

2006 Tahoe Cooling system running to cool. 5.3L Flex

I got a 2006 Tahoe 5.3L flex that needed an engine. found a remanufactured (z code engine) had installed with new water pump, radiator and thermostat ( have replaced 3 times wit factory 178 degree stat). Now the engine runs about 165 to 175 on the road. When idling it will get up to about 210...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Someone on the forum used a part from a TPMS sensor, I think it was, to make the restriction for an aftermarket radiator. @kbuskill maybe?

Huh I may have to do something about that, one thing at a time I guess. Luckily I’ve been checking the crack and it’s not actively leaking after drives. Should be good till the weekend

 

[Buggdave]

I remember reading about this over on PT.net last year when I was looking for an aluminum radiator.
One guy did the following “I machined it out of 3/8 aluminum rod. I punch a .188 hole in a slug ~.5" long, pushed it in with a socket on the degas bottle side of the hose and put it back on it”

 

[Dantheman1540]

I remember reading about this over on PT.net last year when I was looking for an aluminum radiator.
One guy did the following “I machined it out of 3/8 aluminum rod. I punch a .188 hole in a slug ~.5" long, pushed it in with a socket on the degas bottle side of the hose and put it back on it”

Huh I will have to try and dig that up, although I don’t have the ability to machine something like that. I don’t remember having this issue on my RCSB with the mishmoto or my buddies Denali with some other all aluminum rad. I will have to see how drastic the cooling effect is, being that I’m in Florida I doubt it will run below 170 with the 160 T Stat

 

[Buggdave]

You may not need to do anything, I remember reading it was hit and miss if there was a restrictor installed or not. I know my mishimoto had a bushing installed so I did not have worry about it.

 

[iamdub]

Yes, the OE radiator has the restriction in it. More info here:

2006 Tahoe Cooling system running to cool. 5.3L Flex

I got a 2006 Tahoe 5.3L flex that needed an engine. found a remanufactured (z code engine) had installed with new water pump, radiator and thermostat ( have replaced 3 times wit factory 178 degree stat). Now the engine runs about 165 to 175 on the road. When idling it will get up to about 210...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Someone on the forum used a part from a TPMS sensor, I think it was, to make the restriction for an aftermarket radiator. @kbuskill maybe?

Huh I will have to try and dig that up, although I don’t have the ability to machine something like that. I don’t remember having this issue on my RCSB with the mishmoto or my buddies Denali with some other all aluminum rad. I will have to see how drastic the cooling effect is, being that I’m in Florida I doubt it will run below 170 with the 160 T Stat

It was @kbuskill. He's also in Florida. IIRC, it was just the threaded tip of a standard tire stem with the Schrader valve core removed. It solved his over-cooling issue.