4l60E slipping/being erratic.

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04Z71w

04Z71w

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Glad you did the valve body repairs, those prices seemed too cheap to me to get anything of decent quality and how in the world does the trans guy know what needs changing until he actually sees the internals laid out before him? Ever watch Precision Transmissions on youtube? They do 4L60 tear downs all the time. Learned a lot about them from those videos!
Funny I watched those on your tube this past weekend to just get familiar with the 4l60.
I Ike to be as hands on as much as possible if i can't do it ill figure it out aside from rebuilding a trans lol.
 

Colby_e32

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Well, you can buy a complete ready to slide in corvette servo on ebay for about 70-75... I installed mine on my back in 5 minutes. Solved my issues and was probably the best upgrade ive done for the cost.
 
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04Z71w

04Z71w

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Well, you can buy a complete ready to slide in corvette servo on ebay for about 70-75... I installed mine on my back in 5 minutes. Solved my issues and was probably the best upgrade ive done for the cost.
I'm sold and I'll take any experience and advice possible. I'll order one up.
 

PNWYukon

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I'm sold and I'll take any experience and advice possible. I'll order one up.
Go under at look at your clearances. I had to drop the crossmember and lower the transmission just to get my servo out. I still had to beat back the heat shield a little too.
 
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04Z71w

04Z71w

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Go under at look at your clearances. I had to drop the crossmember and lower the transmission just to get my servo out. I still had to beat back the heat shield a little too.
Well hell that sounds like fun!
 
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04Z71w

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Geesh. I get a few a things fixed and operating smoothly and BAM! damn valve cover leak from the rear. Oil everywhere and the heater barely blows hot air. Can't be the heater core because there's no coolant loss, smells of coolant or coolant leaking into the cabin. I'm assuming maybe the thermostat.

Thinking I'm pulling this thing into the shop this winter and tearing it down now that I have all the parts that need replacing. We'll minus the catalytic converters and y pipe. So rusted and dented I'm just going to replace it with a new y pipe and some magnaflow cata for now.

Lucky I made money off the stupid rims and audio crap that came with it.
 

Hobert

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Many here have had plastic heater T connectors fail. @kbuskill thread, newer platform but common cross platform problem

"As we all know, the plastic T-connector "quick disconnects" that connect our heater hoses to the heater core in the front and tee off to the rear heater core are prone to getting brittle and cracking and leaking or just breaking off all together (both have happened to me) and dumping all the engine coolant at once."
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/gruven-heater-core-t-connectors.107087/
 

Matthew Jeschke

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Seems like old post?

4L60e is a awesome transmission... They cut corners in valve body though. Most times issue is a check ball going through the separator plate on valve body. Plastic accumulators tend to crack too.

It is all stuff easily fixed from under truck, fluid pan. With those miles I would just rebuild valve body regardless.

Only thing is, if you have already burnt clutch's then you have to pull transmission. That is why is vital to know condition of fluid.

Easiest to pull pan and see if you have clutch material in pan. And or whipe dipstick on clean white shop towel. If brown is either really dirty or burnt clutch material.
 

Alex_M

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I would argue the '60e can be made into an awesome transmission with a little work. That check ball issue is something that should have been addressed early on in the lifecycle of the trans but wasn't; swapping to a synthetic check ball is an easy fix if your separator plate is in good shape. PWM is a bit harsh on the torque converters as well, better off with the PWM valve blocked off in the valve body or having it tuned out.

Plastic accumulators are a double edge sword. Some crack, but on the flip side some aluminum ones wear out in their center bore where they ride on the pin. I think the aluminum is probably a bit better, but in my own transmissions I don't swap them unless I have one on hand while I have the trans apart. I do like to stack washers or nuts on the pin, or place a second accumulator piston to block the accumulator in the case and firm up/speed up the 3-4 shift and save on the 3-4 clutches that are most common to go out.

Of course, sonnax does make pinless aluminum accumulators. I've never used them, but they seem like a good solution as well as long as the o-rings hold them off the cylinder walls well enough that the aluminum doesn't wear. I feel like that probably is the case.

I do like Corvette servos in all my 60e's as well.
 

Vint91

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The 4l60e In my z71 is slipping and being erratic at times. Some times it starts off in 2nd then around 20mph drops into 1st and takes off then back into 2nd. Some times it just starts in 2nd gear and stays put until I let off the gas then get back on it to feather it into 3rd. It's stupid. I can still shift manually through the gears and reverse works fine. Most of the time it hunts for a gear that will engage. It has 277k miles so I'm assuming my trans is rubbish. Supposedly it had been rebuilt before I bought it but no proof to back up that claim. That being said, I'm not a gm person and don't know a ton about the 4l60 other than they are finicky and useless after so much use.

Yes, it has proper fluids and a recent filter change.
I'm thinking about getting a stage 1 built 4l60E from monster transmission and got a quote for 1686.00 out the door. The install I can do myself.
Is that a reputable builder and a decent price? I need a transmission that is built enough to handle maybe 380hp as I'm just going to do cam/header/ported 862 heads and a tune. It's not going to be be total daily driver but will be used for small road trips and camping.
I just bought a Monster Transmission Level 2 for my other truck and I’m happy with the results. It responds quickly!!
 

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