Charging system upgrade

[jeremiahm]

For the extra negative battery to frame I used the bolt location holding the rubber splash guard in the passenger side fender.

 

[jeremiahm]

One more, my original pile of parts:

 

[1BADI5]

GM part number for the 220amp ALT - 22949466, google that and you'll be in business.

DB Electric on eBay- https://www.ebay.com/itm/1337532237...LkMicQURVr94hOBxRrST|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2334524

 

[Geotrash]

GM part number for the 220amp ALT - 22949466, google that and you'll be in business.

DB Electric on eBay- https://www.ebay.com/itm/133753223783?epid=11024940125&_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item1f24503a67:ge8AAOSw36dglIFw&amdata=enc:AQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSHYXPhGXR5uguexJBeHwfgdnvwvIs%2FFuM4XQB7IBbBzYHiF1QzgNdZ87LujUSR3Ad1pnFoikMJE9HtNOS6UsmuIq00E%2BwiIR051lcwBo%2BkyLMeq6Ej9T4vFiKADVZzWT2FhAl%2FMJ8zL%2FKoZwmcD%2BqVJK0CAJGPrTgJnsIo3AyjuRBXz5WQb1DrTx5M7TGarXip7bln1YITGkj7w3wRALdYGB8H3y48u6S0xEvMtKvqecjMwh4qw4%2Bjvyn30b%2Fz2wgUwMGX4An7UqeVO%2Ftn4k%2FVynt58IqRqv8by8BvP8rfaKpKjFWSxCHQVcvZ%2FNoeRAXLg2Tj5ErdPP1jZlt2MuawaNWdyfC8ufYctxmD%2BfMFngB00CLxafNlqyrw5JmiARYEiAc%2B%2Faqad8L1cS%2FiOdt83cnEP7vyOuD8HSbb4rhcNbmN2FvNQwm96uXBgWzQ6fiTPwxb7QOCyzB6xwYZcQW%2F1Qvk1isQIz3GrmC032uDKbtitnSFi3yt%2BrpHXFxt6L3JGCMlwMkYl2BDw4XjSF8L3lVzdQ%2BtVtgPgxjS1TwyPX5VLlJd1AQzifjc7n1HAFntuJwsUPl6EdU5scpT2I1LQnIU1EuBBbgQCbeBeXmB%2FlHtVDfZJqgnLZfYZGb0uH5kzUDPQCFpZZ0nGLQ%2Fs%2Bex9zKk6iqSGWhdc2IIRAoc3ah9bc8nbKm0lPoO2xhy7uNoTcCVM7pv93azNKO%2Fbkbv9dNDRPeuxruHgiBiFyZZkUmVoaBsGnmvzPc6BedxqllvxerWPPLn1PPj%2BlyEELn7JApvTC1BK60RXl17STLzSNgLkMicQURVr94hOBxRrST|ampidL_CLK|clp:2334524

Nice, thanks. Will that fit a NNBS truck?

 

[1BADI5]

Nice, thanks. Will that fit a NNBS truck?

From what I have read here it should be plug and play

 

[Geotrash]

From what I have read here it should be plug and play

Thank you kindly.

 

[TollKeeper]

From what I have read here it should be plug and play

What about the NBS? I see that the plugs and terminal are changed, but would it work?

 

[1BADI5]

What about the NBS? I see that the plugs and terminal are changed, but would it work?

I would love to give you an answer, but I just don't have enough information to either confirm OR deny.

Now my little trick for this, take that OEM part number to Advance/AutoZone and get the part and test fit it. If it works, you're in business.....if it doesn't fit return it, no harm, no loss

 

[the_tool_man]

I would love to give you an answer, but I just don't have enough information to either confirm OR deny.

Now my little trick for this, take that OEM part number to Advance/AutoZone and get the part and test fit it. If it works, you're in business.....if it doesn't fit return it, no harm, no loss

Be careful. Some places won't let you return "electrical" parts. You might save time and trouble by taking photos of what you have, and comparing to the alternator as it sits on the parts counter.

 

[1BADI5]

Be careful. Some places won't let you return "electrical" parts. You might save time and trouble by taking photos of what you have, and comparing to the alternator as it sits on the parts counter.

Valid statement and option. I have a working relationship with most of the part suppliers around town, so it's never been an issue for me

 

[Foggy]

Just to add my 2 cents:
I picked up the newer style alternator (lookup 2016 2500HD silverado 6.0) and
you'll easily find the new style 220 amp alternator.
It basically bolts right in...You have to tighten the 2 bolt insert washers a bit more..
I measured that distance on the OE alternator and the newer denso style.. It was about
2 MM Difference , so no big deal..
My alternator bracket is offset due to my edelbrock supercharger, so the oe alt had to
be "clocked" 1 notch.
The new style alt will have to be clocked 1 notch OR an extension used on the 2 pin
wire harness that goes into the side. The main power was no issue at all.

I returned the alt to my parts store as I have an account, so no big deal.
I'm deciding on the options: 1: Change over to new style 220 amp and lengthen the 2 wire hookup
2: Do the Mechman 250 amp alt - I talked to them, I need the 250 amp model due to the fact
that the 240 amp model is "unclockable"
3: Just do a bit smaller pulley on my OE 160 amp ----- this is what I'm going to do first
to try it out. I'm going with a 57 mm pulley that I found on ebay (thanks to this post).
The stock is 2.46" and 57mm is 2.24".. So I won't really screw up my belt sizing and
the ratio rpms

 

[alpha_omega]

I stand firmly corrected! Thank you for taking the time to lookup the information.

I'm pretty sure it's had all the updates, cable changes, etc. Oddly enough, once I disconnected the RVC, I have had zero battery issues. The batteries stay charged and are no longer plagued by bad cells spreading through the unit.

I initially thought by getting a deep cycle Optima that I could get at least a year out of the battery. I went from a 4-6 month replacement cycle to 6-9 month replacement. Once I unplugged the sensor I'm well over a year on the Optima H6.

Reviving an old post. Has anyone used the GM 220amp (p/n: 13536552) for their upgrade? I know the one posted by @1BADI5 was a different p/n.

If so, did any of you have to change the pulley and/or belt?

@Foggy do you have any photos or can you elaborate on the clocking method you used on your alternator setup? I’m not sure if the one I have is even capable of doing that. As far as I can tell, there doesn’t seem to be an issue with the wiring harness length.

@Geotrash you did a 220 upgrades correct? Did you put a 90 elbow on your pos to alt wire? The connection post is set up differently than the original 160amp.

 

[j91z28d1]

Reviving an old post. Has anyone used the GM 220amp (p/n: 13536552) for their upgrade? I know the one posted by @1BADI5 was a different p/n.

If so, did any of you have to change the pulley and/or belt?

@Foggy do you have any photos or can you elaborate on the clocking method you used on your alternator setup? I’m not sure if the one I have is even capable of doing that. As far as I can tell, there doesn’t seem to be an issue with the wiring harness length.

@Geotrash you did a 220 upgrades correct? Did you put a 90 elbow on your pos to alt wire? The connection post is set up differently than the original 160amp.

I think @mikez71 did his? iamdub did the swap with a nice write up, but he went a bit overboard on the install making it not look like a direct swap that it is..

I put one in a different car, great upgrade. found low mileage take off on ebay for 100$.

 

[kbuskill]

I installed that P/N alternator on my Burb back in July of 2023 at 305k miles.

40k miles later still going strong.

No pulley or belt change required.

I built a Big 3 upgrade out of shielded 2/0 marine grade tinned copper wire a long time ago so I can't speak to the terminal being different from stock but I didn't have to change anything with the cables when I upgraded to the 220A alternator.

 

[mikez71]

Yep, drops right in..

Right, the charging post was a different size, so the cable eyelet may need some filing?
Not much if it did..

What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

...hopefully no surprises when I pull the magnet out With the way you drive, it'd be a surprise to NOT find anything! :p

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

@iamdub measured the pulley, and it was a tiny bit smaller.
I think a new belt put the tensioner marks right in the middle. (So a new belt normally rides on the tight side of tensioner marks?)

 

[Geotrash]

@Geotrash you did a 220 upgrades correct? Did you put a 90 elbow on your pos to alt wire? The connection post is set up differently than the original 160amp.

I'd planned to but then decided to buy a Suburban 3500 that already had the 220a alternator from the factory. Most expensive alternator I ever bought.