Different DOD/AFM delete/disable questions

[Roger Hill]

I'm looking at jumping into a '12-'14 Tahoe and have been reading A LOT about the delete/disable and I still have questions:

1). How common is this issue? Are these motors ticking time bombs or is it just "one of those things"?

2). If the truck currently doesn't have issues, is it just as good to disable rather then the expense of deleting?

3). For the 12-14 models, is there one year that is less likely or is it the luck of the draw?

4). For those of you that deleted and didn't upgrade the cam or anything (stayed stock), how much did it cost for a shop to do the work?

Thanks for answering "yet another AFM question".

 

[wsteele]

I'm looking at jumping into a '12-'14 Tahoe and have been reading A LOT about the delete/disable and I still have questions:

1). How common is this issue? Are these motors ticking time bombs or is it just "one of those things"?

2). If the truck currently doesn't have issues, is it just as good to disable rather then the expense of deleting?

3). For the 12-14 models, is there one year that is less likely or is it the luck of the draw?

4). For those of you that deleted and didn't upgrade the cam or anything (stayed stock), how much did it cost for a shop to do the work?

Thanks for answering "yet another AFM question".

It appears the most problematic issues with AFM lifters was in the earlier model years (like 2007-2009). Along the way GM made a number of upgrades to the AFM components that make the kind of failures prevalent in earlier model year far less so. I think 2012-2014 have all the upgrades, plus other moves GM made to make these engines better, like the upgraded valve cover, AFM relief valve deflector, etc.

It appears the biggest single factor in keeping these AFM engines out of trouble is regular oil changes. If you find an example with excellent service history you are way ahead of the game.

As far as turning AFM off (so the engine never drops into V4 mode and hence risk a collapsed lifter), there are very experienced guys that will do that for as little as $50. There are a lot of options on turning it off, simple to very complex.

 

[Jettix2]

I disabled mine when I bought our 2014 Escalade (30k miles at the time) with a Black Bear Tune.........obviously doesn't change the mechanicals, but it prevents the DOD/AFM from engaging. Runs and drives 100x better with the Black Bear Tune........

 

[Roger Hill]

It appears the most problematic issues with AFM lifters was in the earlier model years (like 2007-2009). Along the way GM made a number of upgrades to the AFM components that make the kind of failures prevalent in earlier model year far less so. I think 2012-2014 have all the upgrades, plus other moves GM made to make these engines better, like the upgraded valve cover, AFM relief valve deflector, etc.

It appears the biggest single factor in keeping these AFM engines out of trouble is regular oil changes. If you find an example with excellent service history you are way ahead of the game.

As far as turning AFM off (so the engine never drops into V4 mode and hence risk a collapsed lifter), there are very experienced guys that will do that for as little as $50. There are a lot of options on turning it off, simple to very complex.

Thank you for the info. If I should ever notice the oil not being proper pressure and it's not throwing codes, that would of be a good indication? If it's early on and the engine hasn't grenades, can I then use a disabler instead of delete?

 

[Roger Hill]

I disabled mine when I bought our 2014 Escalade (30k miles at the time) with a Black Bear Tune.........obviously doesn't change the mechanicals, but it prevents the DOD/AFM from engaging. Runs and drives 100x better with the Black Bear Tune........

Does it have a tune that can give even slightly better fuel mileage? The reason I ask, is when I deleted my truck (Dodge 3500) and tuned it, my power, performance and fuel mileage shot up.

 

[wsteele]

Thank you for the info. If I should ever notice the oil not being proper pressure and it's not throwing codes, that would of be a good indication? If it's early on and the engine hasn't grenades, can I then use a disabler instead of delete?

If you get a collapsed AFM lifter (pretty rare, even though the internet makes it seem like it happens to every truck), you will get a misfire on that cylinder P030x, with X being 1, 4, 6 or 7 (the AFM cylinders). If you get that and you pop the valve cover off the bank that has the misfire, you will likely see the rocker kind of flopping around and the valve staying closed.

 

[Jettix2]

Does it have a tune that can give even slightly better fuel mileage? The reason I ask, is when I deleted my truck (Dodge 3500) and tuned it, my power, performance and fuel mileage shot up.

You could email Black Bear and ask.............my mileage drops with the tune, partly because the AFM is disabled, and partly because I have a lead foot LOL

 

[iamdub]

Does it have a tune that can give even slightly better fuel mileage? The reason I ask, is when I deleted my truck (Dodge 3500) and tuned it, my power, performance and fuel mileage shot up.

Kinda repeating what @wsteele said:

Improvements were made 2010-2011 and up that drastically improved the reliability of the system.

Keeping impeccably clean oil in the engine is paramount in avoiding issues with the system.

I'd still disable it to at least "kick the can down the road". You can send your PCM to a guy that disables it for $50. I wouldn't use the plug-in type disabler since there may be times you need that ALDL ("OBD") port open for diagnostics or for vehicle inspection. For those times, you'd have to unplug it, enabling the AFM system that has sat dormant for who-knows-how-long. You'd also have to wait for all the readiness monitors to set after unplugging it, which requires considerable drive time.

From my experience, AFM in the GMT900s doesn't improve the fuel economy enough to risk keeping it. If the vast majority of your travels were on flat land with no head wind, no traffic and at speeds not exceeding 60MPH, THEN, it may eventually benefit you if it never has a failure. I deleted mine with a performance cam and some other mods. I have a lot more power (gained a full second in the 1/4 mile) and get better mileage now than I did with AFM. The engine was in top shape inside and out so it's not that it had something wrong with it prior to deleting it.

 

[Roger Hill]

Kinda repeating what @wsteele said:

Improvements were made 2010-2011 and up that drastically improved the reliability of the system.

Keeping impeccably clean oil in the engine is paramount in avoiding issues with the system.

I'd still disable it to at least "kick the can down the road". You can send your PCM to a guy that disables it for $50. I wouldn't use the plug-in type disabler since there may be times you need that ALDL ("OBD") port open for diagnostics or for vehicle inspection. For those times, you'd have to unplug it, enabling the AFM system that has sat dormant for who-knows-how-long. You'd also have to wait for all the readiness monitors to set after unplugging it, which requires considerable drive time.

From my experience, AFM in the GMT900s doesn't improve the fuel economy enough to risk keeping it. If the vast majority of your travels were on flat land with no head wind, no traffic and at speeds not exceeding 60MPH, THEN, it may eventually benefit you if it never has a failure. I deleted mine with a performance cam and some other mods. I have a lot more power (gained a full second in the 1/4 mile) and get better mileage now than I did with AFM. The engine was in top shape inside and out so it's not that it had something wrong with it prior to deleting it.

Would you know who it is to send the PCM to?

 

[wsteele]

The reason Chris is agreeing with me is I learned all this stuff from him and a few other experts on these threads.

 

[iamdub]

The reason Chris is agreeing with me is I learned all this stuff from him and a few other experts on these threads.

Aww!

 

[iamdub]

Would you know who it is to send the PCM to?

https://lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm

Best deal for a disabling, if you ask me.

 

[wsteele]

https://lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm

Best deal for a disabling, if you ask me.

I agree. As someone who probably has done every other option between the above and Black Bear, I think I can stay with a fair amount of certainty, either the link above, or a real Black Bear Tune.

 

[Trippers99hoe]

deleted

 

[S4NM4N]

https://lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm

Best deal for a disabling, if you ask me.

I purchased and AFM disabler module that plugs into the OBDII Port a few years back that corrected the issues for me. Would you recommend doing this anyway and eliminate the module I have now? Seems like a better solution.

 

[wsteele]

I purchased and AFM disabler module that plugs into the OBDII Port a few years back that corrected the issues for me. Would you recommend doing this anyway and eliminate the module I have now? Seems like a better solution.

My opinion is if you already have the ODB plug in disabler and you don't have to unplug it and drive around in AFM mode for a week or so before getting your car emissions check, I would just stick with it. I got rid of my Range device as I didn't want to have to unplug it and drive around for a week or more to get all my monitors showing passed for a successful emissions test.

I think a Black Bear tune is a step above all other options as you can get performance improvements, better shifting, etc. But the cost also reflects that benefit. It isn't cheap.

 

[iamdub]

I purchased and AFM disabler module that plugs into the OBDII Port a few years back that corrected the issues for me. Would you recommend doing this anyway and eliminate the module I have now? Seems like a better solution.

As @wsteele said, if you've had it for years and haven't had any issues using it, then there's no real reason to get rid of it. A lot of states or cities within states require annual emissions inspections and they need to plug into that port. When the disabler device is removed, AFM is reactivated after sitting dormant for so long and there are numerous emissions monitors that are reset, so the vehicle isn't ready to have its emissions tests. Also, there have been reports that the disabler draws power when the vehicle is sitting and it can drain the battery in a few days or week. Your area must not require these annual tests and your vehicle must not stay parked much or you wouldn't have asked.

Now, if a custom tune is in your future plans, then definitely have the tuner disable it in the tune. Then you can sell that plug-in module to recoup a little.

 

[wsteele]

As @wsteele said, if you've had it for years and haven't had any issues using it, then there's no real reason to get rid of it. A lot of states or cities within states require annual emissions inspections and they need to plug into that port. When the disabler device is removed, AFM is reactivated after sitting dormant for so long and there are numerous emissions monitors that are reset, so the vehicle isn't ready to have its emissions tests. Also, there have been reports that the disabler draws power when the vehicle is sitting and it can drain the battery in a few days or week. Your area must not require these annual tests and your vehicle must not stay parked much or you wouldn't have asked.

Now, if a custom tune is in your future plans, then definitely have the tuner disable it in the tune. Then you can sell that plug-in module to recoup a little.

Good advice. I sold my Range device on eBay for $145.

 

[S4NM4N]

I think it will be something I look into having done in the future. I live in NJ and we do have inspections every 2 years. Fortunately it is not something strictly enforced by any local PD. (and having family on local PD's is a good backup) I had not gone through inspection since, oh somewhere around 2012ish. That was before I got the Range. After I got it I did go through 3 times and failed because I had no clue it had to be taken out in advance and driven around. After the 3rd fail I wondered and researched and haven't been back since. That was 2018.
Thank you for the responces!!!

 

[Charlie207]

I've found that in my Yukon, I could disable the AFM by shifting in to Manual Mode, and selecting gear 5.

It runs/drives/shifts normally, except never transitions into V4 mode, per the dash display that shows instant MPGs and V4 or V8 mode.