kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Go ahead and replace both now.... it's not my money or labor... lol
Broken Motor Mounts
- Thread starter osidesurfer365
- Start date
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Go ahead and replace both now.... it's not my money or labor... lol
Have you been launching in reverse? According to @Rocket Man , that can have catastrophic results.
Seriously, though, I’d replace both sides. They have the same number of miles on them.
Only if you have FI!
Well, there is that one small whipple detail.
22YukonDenali22
TYF Newbie
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Yeah I can't help but peel out in reverse, throw the e-brake, 180, throw the automatic lever into drive, then scream 15mph down my quiet neighborhood street! Life in the fasttt laaaane
I had an excuse lol. But it ended up snapping the housing on the front diff and destroying a cv joint. Not recommended. But one of my forward launches snapped the output shaft on the trans when it hit second gear so wtf.
22YukonDenali22
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Dang! What a bummer!!
Tozan
Overlander
Man why did I read this thread? Now I need to go check my 197k mile Tahoe to see if my mounts are broken...
Glad I came across this thread! I checked my 2007 Yukon XL 5.3 motor mount and sure enough it was bad. Although I’m at 160.5K miles I’m convinced it has been broken for a good while, having noticed what I thought was slack in the yoke/differential for some time. I replaced both sides with the suggested Hummer style mounts last weekend. Things are now back to good and tight feeling upon acceleration. Driver side install was no problem, right side was a bit of a challenge but I got it done! Back to my original plan, I installed an improved left valve cover and did a little PM, installing fresh belts, idlers, and plugs. Coolant refresh and new hoses are ready to go the next available weekend along with adding a cabin filter. Appreciate all the good info from everyone here that led me to checking the mounts!
Tozan
Overlander
Hmm... I guess I need to remember to check this...
Kapitein
Full Access Member
Just ordered up 2x H3 mounts, not overly looking forward to changing them!
07 Denali XL. Original mounts seem to be completely shot.
07 Denali XL. Original mounts seem to be completely shot.
If you can do them without removing the exhaust manifolds, great but have heard it is impossible unless you can bend in many directions. I did mine on my rig and took both manifolds off for access and then had 3 end bolts of the exhaust manifolds that broke and I used the Dorman exhaust clamp kits and they worked great. It's either that or attempt to drill out and remove/tap or pull heads.
I used new engine mounts as an excuse to install long tube headers, trans lines, oil pan gasket, oil pickup oring, starter, custom dip stick and so forth. I have another car so just did everything that bothered me.
+1 for the dorman kits.
iamdub
Full Access Member
It's been a few years, but I replaced both of mine without removing the manifolds. Driver side is easy. Passenger side is the PITA, but not impossible. With the front up on jack stands and tires removed, I first unbolted the trans mount (it was getting replaced at the same time, anyway). Working from the top and through the fender well, I unbolted the driver side mount. I jacked up the engine as far as I could go before anything was crushed under the cowl. Leaving the passenger side mount bolted made the engine tilt away from the driver side as it went up, providing a few more millimeters of clearance. I unbolted and separated the steering shaft and swapped the mount from the top. I hear it's easier to go from the bottom, but I'm stubborn and lazy and I didn't want crud falling into my eyes. After bolting in the new driver side mount, I raised the passenger side and did the same. It's a lot tighter due to the starter. The key is rotating and spinning the old mount a bunch of directions to find the magical combination that lets it come out. I'm pretty sure I bent the heat shield on the manifold for more clearance, too. The new mount went in the same way, using that magical combination of twists and turns, but in reverse order. It could be separated into two pieces so that really helped.
Oh, this was on a 2WD. Supposedly, the 4WD is more difficult. But I don't see the difference unless you're working from the bottom.
gooffeyguy
Tom
More info on this custom dip stick
I just had the driver’s side done, tech did it from the underside on a lift. 90 minutes max.
I do expect the 4x4 is more difficult because the front diff is in the way. However mine is lifted so the diff drop creates a lot of extra room.
I do expect the 4x4 is more difficult because the front diff is in the way. However mine is lifted so the diff drop creates a lot of extra room.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I have a lift in my shop now, but I've never paid attention to accessing the mounts from underneath. I have long tube headers now so it's irrelevant. But, this is good for those with a 4WD to know that it isn't so bad working from underneath.
How did he raise and support the engine?
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Nothing fancy but I used this. My oem dipstick rusted and cracked when I tried to bend it around my kook's headers. This part is nice but a tad short so careful when checking oil level on a hot engine. I'll get an installed pic in a bit.
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