George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Perhaps I missed something???You just had to ask him didn’t you?![]()
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Perhaps I missed something???You just had to ask him didn’t you?![]()
I take it you haven’t been entertained by Brent previously? He’s a riot. Sit back and enjoy!Perhaps I missed something???
I have not. I think I’m ready.I take it you haven’t been entertained by Brent previously? He’s a riot. Sit back and enjoy!
I take it you haven’t been entertained by Brent previously? He’s a riot. Sit back and enjoy!
I have not. I think I’m ready.
Is the increased pressure applied to the bearings? is pressure measured before the filter or after? How can a filter increase pressure?
even since I was in a Navy CB unit, the mechanics always stuck by their statement, "You can never have too fresh of oil in the engine!"
Been a Wix Guy for years with the occasional Delco or Fram. Oil wise I used the master parts blend from Bumper to Bumper for years in all our vehicles. The 4.2 L6 in the Envoy did not like the fram filter and threw several cam timing codes before I swapped the filter.
Now with my first AFM motor I am contemplating which full synthetic to run.
The increased pressure is applied to the bearings. Pressure is measured after the filter. The pressure is created by the restriction to the flow caused by the components down stream of the pump and if taken ahead of the filter would measure higher. The higher pressure is due to the added flow through the filter. As the bearings and things wear more oil can pass through and the pressure will begin to decrease unless the volume viscosity or restriction to flow is increased. It’s part of the reason it is important to have the same clearance on components like rod bearings. If one is too different it will get more or less oil than the rest.Is the increased pressure applied to the bearings? is pressure measured before the filter or after? How can a filter increase pressure? Ill throw a K&N at it tomorrow without changing the oil cause it only has a couple hundred miles on the "sub standard mobil one 5/30"lol! but i would like to see if i get the same results.
Not sure but I reckon the pressure is higher because the filter media is less restrictive. Pressure readings taken from Tech-2 and the dash gauge only.
Sea Bees huh? When? Had the pleasure of spending time after hours on base with a reserve unit once back in the '80s. NAS Glenview.
1969 Vietnam, 21 Naval Regiment, NMCB-1 Alpha company, 7th platoon. I was an operator and we all got to set down after work to drink beer and shot the S*&T with the mechanics at the EM club.
i would not use E series acdelco they use cardboard
so if you want a cardboard soup in your engine then go for it
I should put one in and have a cardboard soup then GM buys me a new engine for free.. (or it might blow apart from the HIGH pressure )
I can keep putting it in then get unlimited free engines once every 3,000 miles[/QUOT
1969 Vietnam, 21 Naval Regiment, NMCB-1 Alpha company, 7th platoon. I was an operator and we all got to set down after work to drink beer and shot the S*&T with the mechanics at the EM club. Great guys and these guys did mostly high end diesel engines, but some of the lighter equipment was gas powered. I had one friend, Bobby Rhodes, and what he could do to the Volkswagen engine was truly amazing, and back in the sixties, turbos where only in the Diesel engines for the most part. And Oil pressure is the result of volume after the oil filter, a high volume oil pump will give higher PSI. And I didn't say Mobil-1 isn't good, it is. I had a LS1 in a 2003 Corvette, and if I had one guy mention the valve tap in their LS1, I must of had 30 of them mention it. It wasn't a valve tap, but piston slap. It's really harmless, it only happens when the engine is cold and only lasts about 60 seconds after start. Mobil-1 5W/30 was the oil of choice by GM back then and it was great oil, never let anyone I knew, but I have run across a few tests showing maybe Pennzoil might be a little better? And WIX filters have always been top shelf since I cut my teeth on engines in 1967. But engines today have very little to do with modern engines. The engineering and manufacture is so good today that they have almost nothing to do with 40 year old engines. However, the Ford 3 valve triton engine is a and will forever be a sad low point for the brand. This is engineering gone wrong from the get-go. And GM's AFM or DFM are running a close second. i Engineering and installing valve lifters, a Integral Engine part that run the very good chance of coming apart in the engines lifetime is very very sad point. So many of today's top brand engines have become "Throw-Away" engines and are a stain on automotive engineers everywhere. In aviation this would never be allowed, any doubt, would seal it's fate. And I don't want to rant, so please excuse me, but if the EPA WANTED clean air, they would and should start with Power Plants and Aviation. Since I live fairly close to a Major airport I promise you, you would not believe how much pollution a Jet engine puts out and multiply it by 45.000 roughly, the number of fights a day, and you get the picture. The EPA always comes after the domestic automobile market, and it is because we are defenseless, low-hanging fruit as we are known in our society. That's not leadership, it's just underhandedness and fraud.

Autozone lost money...
Was that at Danang? Was that during the time you guys supported the Green Berets?
Didn't think I'd change my mine, for years I've used Mobil-1, but I had to revise my thinking when I was discussing motor oil with my friend next door. It's pretty clear that Mobil-1 isn't the do all oil I was lead to believe and used over the years. So I ordered 9 quarts of Pennzoil Ultra synthetic 0W/20 for my L83 and a few PH-63 filters in my 2015 Tahoe. Oil is a strange thing when you think about it, we all have a "favorite" and how that particular brand came to be a Favorite is a odd kind of thing. But sooner or later we decide to find something better. Amsoil is the best by a good lead, That said, it's expensive when buying 9 quarts. I change the oil every 4-5 months or 4.000 miles no matter how many often I used the truck.
I drive
A drive a lot. 2005 ram 353,000 miles, 2002 Tahoe 287,000 miles, 1999 4runner 387,000 miles. I bought all three brand new. All three still pass Calif. Smog and all three pure like kittens. I have never used anything but walmart 10-30, 20-50, 5-20, even synthetic mixed with conventional. And Wally filters too.
And I'll add that I've never maintained a schedule except to say I usually give them 5 to 7 thousand between changes. Dont be fooled by the hype. Lubrication is damn near all the same.