What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[R3cord303]

"All" you need is for it to be wet or have enough power or crappy tire grip and if you hold it in 1st or 2nd gear and if your Gov-Bomb hasn't yet detonated and if you disable traction control and Stabilitrak, then it'll do it on pavement. Once you get that fat ass to the side you just stand on the throttle.

This^ In my S10 that did have a blown gov-lock, dirt was way better than pavement.

 

[wjburken]

"All" you need is for it to be wet or have enough power or crappy tire grip and if you hold it in 1st or 2nd gear and if your Gov-Bomb hasn't yet detonated and if you disable traction control and Stabilitrak, then it'll do it on pavement. Once you get that fat ass to the side you just stand on the throttle.

I see. Growing up if you did that on pavement it was called a doughnut. If you did it on dirt and tossed sod and clods it was a cookie.

 

[R3cord303]

I see. Growing up if you did that on pavement it was called a doughnut. If you did it on dirt and tossed sod and clods it was a cookie.

The people on the local car group page refer to the rain as ‘drift sauce’ so in these parts I don’t think it matters much to them

 

[iamdub]

Ran it to the store this morning for a few breakfast items. I always park away from everyone to avoid door dings so I have a little while to study it from a distance as I walk back from the store. I like the new stance so much more than stock, but I'm still wanting it about an inch lower. If the spindles and struts had lowered it 4" as expected, then I'd be happy. I can get the front down where I want it nonetheless. It's the rear I'm brainstorming about at the moment. Be prepared for another engineering question for a possibly foolhardy idea...

 

[iamdub]

Oh yeah you’re right. Second goes to 80 something. Shows you how fast I don’t go

It's not what speed you reach, it's how quickly you get there.

0-80 in 5 seconds is much more fun than 0-120 in 20 seconds!

 

[Sam Harris]

Pretty cool data. That's 5,000 rpms for your driveshafts! LOL

[emoji15][emoji15]

 

[swathdiver]

I forget if mine is steel or aluminum, i'm thinking steel though, some day I will upgrade them

The front steel shaft is rated for 5,000 rpms, The rear steal one is rated for 4,556 rpms. These are the mathematical critical speeds. So my truck's top speed is limited to 122 MPH with worn down tires and about 124 MPH with fresh tires while not exceeding the critical speed of the driveshaft.

I would love to find a runway where I could run 2nd gear all the way out on. It would be up there about 120 I think. It pulls pretty strong for a 5.3 but I’m too chicken about getting a ticket. Anyway, I’m trying to find a local track or something with a skid pad to do cookies on. Would make for great fun

Mathematically, you'd be hitting about 93 MPH @ 6000 RPMs.

 

[R3cord303]

The front steel shaft is rated for 5,000 rpms, The rear steal one is rated for 4,556 rpms. These are the mathematical critical speeds. So my truck's top speed is limited to 122 MPH with worn down tires and about 124 MPH with fresh tires while not exceeding the critical speed of the driveshaft.



Mathematically, you'd be hitting about 93 MPH @ 6000 RPMs.

How about with my 305/50/20 instead of the 275/55/20? Or does that include it? Last thing I need is a driveshaft flying thru the floor. I do want to have some custom CV ones made but its waaaaay down there on the list

 

[Rocket Man]

Ran it to the store this morning for a few breakfast items. I always park away from everyone to avoid door dings so I have a little while to study it from a distance as I walk back from the store. I like the new stance so much more than stock, but I'm still wanting it about an inch lower. If the spindles and struts had lowered it 4" as expected, then I'd be happy. I can get the front down where I want it nonetheless. It's the rear I'm brainstorming about at the moment. Be prepared for another engineering question for a possibly foolhardy idea...

Just buy some 24’s and it will look lower and you won’t be able to go further without major rubbing, problem solved

 

[Rocket Man]

It's not what speed you reach, it's how quickly you get there.

0-80 in 5 seconds is much more fun than 0-120 in 20 seconds!

I can relate to that

 

[Sam Harris]

Just buy some 24’s and it will look lower and you won’t be able to go further without major rubbing, problem solved

I like this idea.. [emoji16][emoji106]

 

[mikeyss]

Does anyone know if the traction control light/stabilitrac lights will stay on if they are deactivated through tuning? As of lately, I am really sick and tired of the nannies on my 6.2, they're always on no matter what you do (minus pulling fuses).
I am thinking of getting them turned off, but I won't do it if it means looking at the warning lights.

The other reason I am looking into this is because I'm tossing around the idea of mating up a NV149 t-case to my 6L80, put an AWD front axle in, re-flashing the BCM to a 2WD, and having the best AWD system GM ever made. It's the T-Case they SHOULD have used in the 03 - 14 Yukon Denali/Escalade. With my 6.2, I don't need 4LO ( I used it as overkill on off-road camping adventures, and it's ridiculous to drive like that). Having my 06 AWD SD, the NV149 handled 18" of snow as well as, if not better, than 4HI in the Tahoe. With AWD and my huge sway bars and 420+ horsepower, it seems like a great idea. I'm not really interested in rear wheel burnouts, I'm too old for that stuff..

 

[kbuskill]

Does anyone know if the traction control light/stabilitrac lights will stay on if they are deactivated through tuning? As of lately, I am really sick and tired of the nannies on my 6.2, they're always on no matter what you do (minus pulling fuses).
I am thinking of getting them turned off, but I won't do it if it means looking at the warning lights.

The other reason I am looking into this is because I'm tossing around the idea of mating up a NV149 t-case to my 6L80, put an AWD front axle in, re-flashing the BCM to a 2WD, and having the best AWD system GM ever made. It's the T-Case they SHOULD have used in the 03 - 14 Yukon Denali/Escalade. With my 6.2, I don't need 4LO ( I used it as overkill on off-road camping adventures, and it's ridiculous to drive like that). Having my 06 AWD SD, the NV149 handled 18" of snow as well as, if not better, than 4HI in the Tahoe. With AWD and my huge sway bars and 420+ horsepower, it seems like a great idea. I'm not really interested in rear wheel burnouts, I'm too old for that stuff..

I am not certain it's even possible to disable the TC/ST in the tune... at least from what I have read... but I have never played around with HP tuners or the like.

I believe the TC/ST are all controlled by the ABS computer which I don't think HP tuners has access to.

Easiest thing to do would probably be to install a switch on the ABS fuse so you could disable it when your off road or as desired.

 

[R3cord303]

I know stabilitrack can be tuned out, but I don’t know if HPTuners can do it

 

[BG1988]

just turned over 95k

 

[kbuskill]

I know stabilitrack can be tuned out, but I don’t know if HPTuners can do it

Just did a little more reading and some guys say if you unplug the steering wheel position sensor under the column that it completely disables TC/ST while maintaining ABS... only light on dash is in the DIC.

Not sure if that works, never tried it, but sounds interesting.

Wonder if you could put a switch on one of those wires instead of fuse 9.

 

[Rocket Man]

Finished wrapping the dash in the Silverado.

 

[Sam Harris]

Damn that looks good!

 

[wjburken]

Finished wrapping the dash in the Silverado.

View attachment 237046

I like the black around the radio. Very nice work my friend!

 

[swathdiver]

How about with my 305/50/20 instead of the 275/55/20? Or does that include it? Last thing I need is a driveshaft flying thru the floor. I do want to have some custom CV ones made but its waaaaay down there on the list

About the same, 1 mph more to hit 6000 rpms. We put driveshaft loops in all of our cars back in the day just in case.