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iamdub

iamdub

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Those should blend it very nicely. Are you happy with the fit of the tree rivets?

Didn't bother to test them. It's either grind, weld and paint the roof (not happening) or cover the holes with a strip of body-colored molding (pricey and wasn't gonna paint that much) or cover each one individually with these things. So, regardless of the [initial] fit, these are gonna happen!

I did remove and measure a screw a while back and ordered these accordingly. They should snap in very firmly. I'll apply a thin layer of urethane sealant to the underside of the head since the threaded insert that these would bottom out on is raised above the roof's surface a millimeter or two. The sealant will make up that difference as well as seal and adhere the cap to the roof.
 
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iamdub

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Four coats of base and four of clear. You know it's good when you can see the reflection of the ladder in the finish:

IMG_5068.JPG


Gonna let these sit for the night and maybe put them out in the sun tomorrow. If I don't work too late and have free time tomorrow afternoon, I'll take the rack off and clean, buff and wax where the mounts were and aim to get these plugs installed on Sunday.
 

kbuskill

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Four coats of base and four of clear. You know it's good when you can see the reflection of the ladder in the finish:

View attachment 236543

Gonna let these sit for the night and maybe put them out in the sun tomorrow. If I don't work too late and have free time tomorrow afternoon, I'll take the rack off and clean, buff and wax where the mounts were and aim to get these plugs installed on Sunday.

It's a shame you invested so much time into these caps when your getting ready to trade for that one with the 6.2l in it.

Oh wait, it's the same color... maybe you should just put these on the new one;)
 
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iamdub

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It's a shame you invested so much time into these caps when your getting ready to trade for that one with the 6.2l in it.

Oh wait, it's the same color... maybe you should just put these on the new one;)

And I still have the stock suspension parts, stock wheels and tires, stock head unit...
 
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iamdub

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Did a little work yesterday. Back when I hauled that 300 lbs. of sand for a portable basketball goal, I heard a few bumps and scrapes in the back. I finally had a chance to put it on the lift and inspect yesterday...


This ear on the axle side panhard mount tapped the cross member:

IMG_0108.JPG


So I trimmed it down to just below the top edge of the bushing. It's only about 10mm of clearance, but it's a little something. Pretty sure I'll end up notching and boxing that cross member later. I didn't catch it at first, but the grease fitting is now exposed. I filed the cut part smooth and painted it and the line in the cross member so I'll know if it ever contacts again:

IMG_0109.JPG



The tire rubbed the fender liner and lip. The plastic is ground down a little and the metal part just forward of it is what lightly sliced the tire tread:

IMG_0110.JPG



I removed the liner and rolled the fender lip:

IMG_0114.JPG


And trimmed down the lip of the liner. I trimmed a little more than what's in this pic. I also softened that wall with the heat gun and flexed it outward to tuck in tight to the metal fender lip. This was between one of the test-fits:

IMG_0117.JPG
 
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iamdub

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...Aaaand done. Went from a 1.5" wide lip with an angled edge to a 1" wide lip with a rolled edge. I also ended up removing that screw since it wasn't needed and only added a sharp metal edge. Doesn't sound like much gain in clearance, but it was barely touching and I gained 1/2" of clearance. That's pretty significant in this area:

IMG_0122.JPG


It was also rubbing inside, so I used the heat gun again to soften and reshape it for a lot more clearance:

IMG_0112.JPG




The front isn't gonna be as easy and I don't know if I'll even bother getting involved today. I've had a headache since I woke up.
 
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iamdub

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Swapped in the Belltech 5305 coils yesterday. On the test drive/shakedown to settle the suspension, it felt great as far as stability. But, if they're any softer than the TJ coils, it may be something like 10% softer- barely noticeable. Everyone talks about how great the 5305s ride and many complain that they're too soft. I was hoping for too soft and at least 4" of drop. After a very aggressive shakedown, I parked it back in the shop and measured the rear to be right at 3/4" higher than with the TJ coils.

So, I lost drop and they ride essentially the same. Oh- they're also noisier because of the dead coils compressed against each other. They haven't been used in a good while and have some surface rust on the contacting edges of the dead coils. I expect the noise to subside after the surface rust rubs off so I'm not so concerned about that.

A Jeep buddy told me he's had it take months for springs to settle. I don't expect these to settle 3/4", but I'd like to get them settled ASAP. I barely drive it, so I'm probably gonna load a few hundred pounds of weight in the back and let it sit loaded for a few weeks while it sits in the shop.

After that, I can trim off some of the dead coils and probably get upwards of 2" more drop if I wanted to trim that much. But, my concern at the moment is trying to find why mine rides so damned firm when many others say theirs rode soft.

I also compressed a shock to ensure that it had plenty of travel and wasn't bottoming out. It compressed about 4" from it's length when mounted at the lowered ride height, which is plenty and coincides with the listed specs of the shock.

More experimenting to follow...
 

kbuskill

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Swapped in the Belltech 5305 coils yesterday. On the test drive/shakedown to settle the suspension, it felt great as far as stability. But, if they're any softer than the TJ coils, it may be something like 10% softer- barely noticeable. Everyone talks about how great the 5305s ride and many complain that they're too soft. I was hoping for too soft and at least 4" of drop. After a very aggressive shakedown, I parked it back in the shop and measured the rear to be right at 3/4" higher than with the TJ coils.

So, I lost drop and they ride essentially the same. Oh- they're also noisier because of the dead coils compressed against each other. They haven't been used in a good while and have some surface rust on the contacting edges of the dead coils. I expect the noise to subside after the surface rust rubs off so I'm not so concerned about that.

A Jeep buddy told me he's had it take months for springs to settle. I don't expect these to settle 3/4", but I'd like to get them settled ASAP. I barely drive it, so I'm probably gonna load a few hundred pounds of weight in the back and let it sit loaded for a few weeks while it sits in the shop.

After that, I can trim off some of the dead coils and probably get upwards of 2" more drop if I wanted to trim that much. But, my concern at the moment is trying to find why mine rides so damned firm when many others say theirs rode soft.

I also compressed a shock to ensure that it had plenty of travel and wasn't bottoming out. It compressed about 4" from it's length when mounted at the lowered ride height, which is plenty and coincides with the listed specs of the shock.

More experimenting to follow...

Airlift bags hooked to the ALC.... meow!
 
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iamdub

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Airlift bags hooked to the ALC.... meow!

Not until I know what bags I can use! If I leave the coils as-is, I'll have to use the tall bags. If I cut off the dead coils, I'll have to use the short bags.

The Air Lift bags aren't designed to stretch and grow a whole lot, nowhere near what the sleeve bags on the factory shocks do. So using the correct bag and not over-pressurizing it is critical. They're rated for something like 35 psi max and the ALC system puts out over 100 psi. So if the bag is too short and doesn't lift the rear where it needs to be by the time it has 35 in it, it can pop cuz the factory compressor will keep going until the sensors report the expected ride height. I'll need it to be at the ride height I want with maybe 5 psi in the bags, unless the coils are soft enough to need more. Static height, dynamic limits, pressure limit incompatibilities... There's a lot to balance! First thing is to get it sitting and riding how I want without the ALC system. I promise you, I often go to bed and wake up pondering the mechanics of coil springs!
 
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iamdub

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Thinking out loud here: I wanna weigh the back of the Tahoe down and let it sit for a week or so to speed up the coil settling process. I'll set the axle on jack stands so the tires aren't carrying the extra weight, potentially flat-spotting them. This would also give me room underneath to check the remaining travel left in the driveshaft's slip yoke so I can (hopefully) scratch that concern off the list.

Current thoughts are to use my largest ice chest and crawfish pot and fill them with water. I have an electric pump so draining them for easy removal won't be a problem. I think my pot is 80 qt., so that's 20 gallons and about 177 lbs. including the pot itself. Gotta see how many gallons the ice chest is. I'm expecting to need upwards of 400 lbs., maybe more. I'll watch it and measure the squat as I add the water. I'll also beat a rubber stopper into the ice chest's drain from the inside to ensure no accidents from the drain cap letting loose.



... You may be right- I may be crazy. But I just may be the lunatic those modding their 'Hoes is looking for.
 

swathdiver

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Thinking out loud here: I wanna weigh the back of the Tahoe down and let it sit for a week or so to speed up the coil settling process. I'll set the axle on jack stands so the tires aren't carrying the extra weight, potentially flat-spotting them. This would also give me room underneath to check the remaining travel left in the driveshaft's slip yoke so I can (hopefully) scratch that concern off the list.

Current thoughts are to use my largest ice chest and crawfish pot and fill them with water. I have an electric pump so draining them for easy removal won't be a problem. I think my pot is 80 qt., so that's 20 gallons and about 177 lbs. including the pot itself. Gotta see how many gallons the ice chest is. I'm expecting to need upwards of 400 lbs., maybe more. I'll watch it and measure the squat as I add the water. I'll also beat a rubber stopper into the ice chest's drain from the inside to ensure no accidents from the drain cap letting loose.



... You may be right- I may be crazy. But I just may be the lunatic those modding their 'Hoes is looking for.

I haven't thought this through but will the axle tubes protest supporting the extra weight in just two small areas where the stands contact them?
 
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iamdub

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I haven't thought this through but will the axle tubes protest supporting the extra weight in just two small areas where the stands contact them?

Good point. I thought about this, but, they're fairly large stands with circular notches in the pads for axles- The 12 ton ones from Harbor Freight. Also, as I usually do when I use them, I plan to put them under the areas where the coils are. This is where the tubes always have weight anyway. Due to the time and the way it'll be loaded, maybe I'll lay some steel plates in those curves of the pads to spread the load out some. That'd put my mind more at ease.
 
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Correction: Crawfish pot is 100 qt., so about 216 lbs. Ice chest is 120 qt., so 247 lbs. That's 463 lbs. not counting the weight of the pot or ice chest, so I'll add another 20 lbs. at least.

So, a potential of 480 lbs.- perfect!

Also, I found some stock front coils from my '01 Jeep XJ. They're about 1.5" taller than the stock rear Tahoe coils but are much thinner wire diameter. They're also about the same overall diameter. One end is wound tighter ("pigtailed") just like the stock coil and the other end is just cut square. So, I could cut it down as needed with no problem. Y'all know I'm gonna try 'em out!

Apparently, I'm just bound and determined to use SOME sort of stock Jeep coil as a drop coil!
 
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Sam Harris

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Correction: Crawfish pot is 100 qt., so about 216 lbs. Ice chest is 120 qt., so 247 lbs. That's 463 lbs. not counting the weight of the pot or ice chest, so I'll add another 20 lbs. at least.

So, a potential of 480 lbs.- perfect!

Also, I found some stock front coils from my '01 Jeep XJ. They're about 1.5" taller than the stock rear Tahoe coils but are much thinner wire diameter. They're also about the same overall diameter. One end is wound tighter ("pigtailed") just like the stock coil and the other end is just cut square. So, I could cut it down as needed with no problem. Y'all know I'm gonna try 'em out!

Apparently, I'm just bound and determined to used SOME sort of stock Jeep coil as a drop coil!
Nice!.. keep us informed sir!
 
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Scratch all that noise about settling the 5305s!

So, last night I unbolted the bottom of the shocks and let them hang. I intended to go for a drive but the shocks were maybe 2" from the concrete, and I wasn't ready to bother with unbolting the top and removing them altogether. The rear end felt like a 60s Cadillac, so I didn't think a test drive was necessary. I decided my shocks were the problem so I went to my stockpile and dug out some Bilsteins I had saved from my XJ project. The preliminary measurements seemed about right and they were a little softer than the stock AutoRide/ALC shocks. Belltech lists two Street Performance shocks for these things, the 2410FF and the 2412FF. The latter is for 0"-3" drop and is what I went with since I was trying to stick to the factory design as closely as possible, just with the axle 4" higher. The extenders recovering 2" of the lost travel meant that the shock would see only a 2" drop, so I thought it would be perfect. The shock body is considerably larger than that of the 2410FF, which I considered a plus since it was more similar to the factory shock. The 2410FF is the more popular shock that everyone gets with the 3"-5" drop coils, but then they also complain of it being too soft. All of this lead me to get the 2412FF.

Anyway, after looking up the specs on the other recommended shock, the 2410FF, I found them to be identical to the Bilstein I had on hand. Time to get busy! The Bilstein had a bar pin mount for the top and regular bushing for the bottom. I pressed the sleeved bushings out of the factory shocks and cut the sleeves out of them (burnt rubber particles everywhere). It sounds like it was so easy and quick just typing it out, but it sucked and took a couple hours last night and this morning. This even included me having to cut a 7/8" impact socket in half to retrieve the bushing sleeve that was stuck in it.

As much as all of this sucked, I did figure out a cool way to bore out a rubber bushing's ID cleanly and while maintaining it's center. Use a paddle bit of the desired size and slide the stem through the bushing, then chuck it up in the drill. The tapered backside of the bit keeps it centered and it'll gradually and cleanly open up the hole. A regular bit would've dug into the bushing and chewed it up and likely wouldn't drill straight:

IMG_0283.JPG



After boring out the rubber bushings, I was able to press in the factory sleeves and bolt in the shocks. While I was under there, I saw where my sway bar had been rubbing the shock mount due to me not having the axle centered, so I clearanced it a little and adjusted the panhard.

Before:
IMG_0305.JPG


After:
IMG_0306.JPG



Yes, I smoothed and painted it after I was done. I also flipped the axle side half of the panhard to put the grease fitting facing downward. Cutting that ear off for more clearance a week or two ago exposed the fitting as the new high point, which means it'd get snapped off should that part ever bottom out against the cross member. The mount has a slotted hole in the underside so the fitting is accessible from the bottom. Simple solution there.


I finished up the shocks and tightened everything and took it for a drive. It was SO much nicer. Felt like it'd be really comfortable on a highway cruise. The dips and cracks and blow-ups in the road were much less pronounced. Even the 22" Brickstone Duelers are now bearable! Jerking the wheel side-to-side to wag the rear resulted in a lot more swaying than with the other shocks, as expected, but it didn't get out of control. One day I'll have some nice sway bars, so that aspect will be much improved.

So now I had to swap the TJ coils back in for (1) to give them a proper and fair assessment and (2) because I wanted my 4" drop back. 45 minutes later I'm on the road again and even more relieved. The TJ coils feel very much like the 5305s. They kinda felt a tiny bit firmer but then also felt a tiny bit softer. Regardless, I can absolutely say that they are a great coil for an honest 4" drop. They should be cheap or free to obtain, depending on who you know or what's at your local salvage yard. Maybe go dumpster-diving at 4Wheel Parts? Unless I didn't shop thoroughly enough, the 5305s are not available new by themselves and must be purchased in a kit from Tony. Otherwise, you have to luck up and find someone selling a set. The 5305s are advertised as 4", but I only got 3.25". I must say that they may just have had some settling to do. But, for the week I had them installed, they rear remained right where it was from day 1. They do have dead coils that can be cut to achieve more drop, much more than 4", without altering the ride quality, though.

For my purposes, the slightly too soft ride and consistent inside shape (as opposed to having active plus dead coils) of the TJ coil suits me best since I'll be slipping some Air Lift bags inside them. It was difficult to get an accurate measurement, but it looks like the inside height is about perfect for the short set of Air Lift bags I have on hand. So now, I'm finally moving forward with that experiment. (@kbuskill)
 

kbuskill

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It was difficult to get an accurate measurement, but it looks like the inside height is about perfect for the short set of Air Lift bags I have on hand. So now, I'm finally moving forward with that experiment. (@kbuskill)

Giggity Giggity !!!

Can't wait... but I guess I will.
 

BourbonNcigars

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Scratch all that noise about settling the 5305s!

So, last night I unbolted the bottom of the shocks and let them hang. I intended to go for a drive but the shocks were maybe 2" from the concrete, and I wasn't ready to bother with unbolting the top and removing them altogether. The rear end felt like a 60s Cadillac, so I didn't think a test drive was necessary. I decided my shocks were the problem so I went to my stockpile and dug out some Bilsteins I had saved from my XJ project. The preliminary measurements seemed about right and they were a little softer than the stock AutoRide/ALC shocks. Belltech lists two Street Performance shocks for these things, the 2410FF and the 2412FF. The latter is for 0"-3" drop and is what I went with since I was trying to stick to the factory design as closely as possible, just with the axle 4" higher. The extenders recovering 2" of the lost travel meant that the shock would see only a 2" drop, so I thought it would be perfect. The shock body is considerably larger than that of the 2410FF, which I considered a plus since it was more similar to the factory shock. The 2410FF is the more popular shock that everyone gets with the 3"-5" drop coils, but then they also complain of it being too soft. All of this lead me to get the 2412FF.

Anyway, after looking up the specs on the other recommended shock, the 2410FF, I found them to be identical to the Bilstein I had on hand. Time to get busy! The Bilstein had a bar pin mount for the top and regular bushing for the bottom. I pressed the sleeved bushings out of the factory shocks and cut the sleeves out of them (burnt rubber particles everywhere). It sounds like it was so easy and quick just typing it out, but it sucked and took a couple hours last night and this morning. This even included me having to cut a 7/8" impact socket in half to retrieve the bushing sleeve that was stuck in it.

As much as all of this sucked, I did figure out a cool way to bore out a rubber bushing's ID cleanly and while maintaining it's center. Use a paddle bit of the desired size and slide the stem through the bushing, then chuck it up in the drill. The tapered backside of the bit keeps it centered and it'll gradually and cleanly open up the hole. A regular bit would've dug into the bushing and chewed it up and likely wouldn't drill straight:

View attachment 239846


After boring out the rubber bushings, I was able to press in the factory sleeves and bolt in the shocks. While I was under there, I saw where my sway bar had been rubbing the shock mount due to me not having the axle centered, so I clearanced it a little and adjusted the panhard.

Before:
View attachment 239848

After:
View attachment 239849


Yes, I smoothed and painted it after I was done. I also flipped the axle side half of the panhard to put the grease fitting facing downward. Cutting that ear off for more clearance a week or two ago exposed the fitting as the new high point, which means it'd get snapped off should that part ever bottom out against the cross member. The mount has a slotted hole in the underside so the fitting is accessible from the bottom. Simple solution there.


I finished up the shocks and tightened everything and took it for a drive. It was SO much nicer. Felt like it'd be really comfortable on a highway cruise. The dips and cracks and blow-ups in the road were much less pronounced. Even the 22" Brickstone Duelers are now bearable! Jerking the wheel side-to-side to wag the rear resulted in a lot more swaying than with the other shocks, as expected, but it didn't get out of control. One day I'll have some nice sway bars, so that aspect will be much improved.

So now I had to swap the TJ coils back in for (1) to give them a proper and fair assessment and (2) because I wanted my 4" drop back. 45 minutes later I'm on the road again and even more relieved. The TJ coils feel very much like the 5305s. They kinda felt a tiny bit firmer but then also felt a tiny bit softer. Regardless, I can absolutely say that they are a great coil for an honest 4" drop. They should be cheap or free to obtain, depending on who you know or what's at your local salvage yard. Maybe go dumpster-diving at 4Wheel Parts? Unless I didn't shop thoroughly enough, the 5305s are not available new by themselves and must be purchased in a kit from Tony. Otherwise, you have to luck up and find someone selling a set. The 5305s are advertised as 4", but I only got 3.25". I must say that they may just have had some settling to do. But, for the week I had them installed, they rear remained right where it was from day 1. They do have dead coils that can be cut to achieve more drop, much more than 4", without altering the ride quality, though.

For my purposes, the slightly too soft ride and consistent inside shape (as opposed to having active plus dead coils) of the TJ coil suits me best since I'll be slipping some Air Lift bags inside them. It was difficult to get an accurate measurement, but it looks like the inside height is about perfect for the short set of Air Lift bags I have on hand. So now, I'm finally moving forward with that experiment. (@kbuskill)
I really hate that you've started shortening your posts. I wanted you to keep up with the super duper detailed experience logs.
 

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