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I solved mine auto stop is working correctly for me
I gained 0.1 volts after a light cleaning the ground wires but they still need a deep cleaning ...
Have you tried higher octane fuel like 91 or 93?(you have to run it for a while to clear out the old 87oct fuel)
don't go to the cheapest station Mobil Exxon or chevron/texco I did notice AFM mode pings a lot with 87 octane even got stuck in the loop of death...
I been to other stations and they charged me 91oct prices for 87 octane ..
noticed after i pumped 9 gallons of the so called 91octane dropped the Timing advancement... by a lot before it was able to advance to upto 42 degrees, after pumping barely able to get to 25 degrees advanced that means my octane dropped to 88 to 88.5octane
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I do also wonder if a tune will help you if they raise the idle a tad. My take on the fear of the warranty thing: you already feel like you're screwed on the warranty (at least with this particular concern) and if you're willing to lose $10k trading out of it, that $10k will pay for anything that might not get covered because of the tune. The probability of the tune being looked for anyway is pretty slim. It would really only matter if you had a major failure like the engine throws a rod. I say you have nothing to lose and everything to gain at this point. Blackbear says their tunes are undetectable anyway so I say go for it. A tune made a huge difference on all of my vehicles, I just used a local tuner instead.

What did he recommend as a course of action based on his assessment?While dealers said no codes, I met with another local GM mechanic last night, he drives GM trucks himself, he works on them. He tested the truck and found codes, his theory that these codes point to a different problem rather than themselves amperage with battery, ground or something else. Because there are 3 codes that he saw. There was no Check Engine light for any of them...
B1325
U0415
U0121
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What did he recommend as a course of action based on his assessment?
What’s wrong with that picture? Looks fine to me.
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While dealers said no codes, I met with another local GM mechanic last night, he drives GM trucks himself, he works on them. He tested the truck and found codes, his theory that these codes point to a different problem rather than themselves amperage with battery, ground or something else. Because there are 3 codes that he saw. There was no Check Engine light for any of them...
B1325
U0415
U0121
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Thank you, I definitely now have electrical problems too B1325, U0415, U0121 were cleared but now vehicle has C0800, it all points that after last service some electrical connections were impacted... On top of my rough idle I now have electrical connections that are impossible to troubleshoot. I am taking it in on Tue again to address idle and to address now electrical. This truck is a royal pain...
Are these fresh codes? Do you have a subscription to AllDataDIY? If not, why don't you sign up for one and check out these codes. Mine has some of them and they all point to a voltage problem which is usually a bad battery with a faulty cell. If we've all learned on thing on these forums with these trucks, a bad battery can cause all kinds of grief and mischief with the electrical system. Kinda like that guy Chaos on those car insurance commercials!
@swathdiver thank you, I wanted to ask for your help if possible with fuel trim data, I am seeing my LTFT all negative most of the time, I was wondering if the trims are OK or not (logs are here) https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1EbdAtrKXjTG0ujUXM6MsoTJqLzYeno1C82mWw76OVsE/edit?usp=sharing
As for electrical (5-6 codes appeared there after truck was from the dealer 12 days ago), no codes before
Codes found and cleared:
B1325 Control Module Power Circuit Voltage below Threshold
B127E Front Video Display Output Signal
U0121 Lost communication with Electronic Brake Control Module, Test Failed
U0401 Invalid Data Received from Engine Control Module
U0415 Invaid Data Received From Engine Control Module
Code found not cleared
C0800 Device power #1 (low current#1) circuit malfunction
Seem fine to me. Was that a drive or just idling and raising the rpms in park? Have you checked your grounds and the battery cables? It's common for the trims to be negative, up to -10 or so while idling and then it will attempt to get to zero and if you are driving at a steady speed for a while the computer will get there usually. Sometimes not but close. Depends on fuel, weather, driving habits, etc.
Battery cable(s).
It isn’t just connections. The cables have high resistance internally. They are common but are something to worry about because they can cause problems such as just the radio screen going blank up to the engine stalling if they’re bad enough.