At least it started!so..... it appears the security module I purchased must be no good, after screwing around with it for hours put my old one back in and bam started right up
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At least it started!so..... it appears the security module I purchased must be no good, after screwing around with it for hours put my old one back in and bam started right up
Frostfighter works. I doubt any of the glass shops even know about it. They buy all their windshield supplies from CR Lawrence and if it’s not in their auto glass catalog they don’t buy it. I used to do auto glass, never heard of it till a few years ago.I only say that because one of the shops I went to- told me that he doesn’t even do glass anymore- but that 10+ years ago when he did do glass in his shop was when he had mixed results. I’ll try the goop that was mentioned but in the past it’s always seemed like I try the $10 fix to avoid the $100 fix- and end up spending $110.
Why are you changing it out, what's your old one not doing?so..... it appears the security module I purchased must be no good, after screwing around with it for hours put my old one back in and bam started right up
Covered it in post 17539Why are you changing it out, what's your old one not doing?
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
Doh! I read that but must've still been half asleep. ThanksCovered it in post 17539
ya I was pretty surprised it started, I figured It would be handshaking with the new one or trying toAt least it started!
if I disconnect the battery it wont start until I disconnect it a 2nd time and do a little song & dance. just don't want it to fail completely out of the blueWhy are you changing it out, what's your old one not doing?
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
does your radiator have the ports for it or are you going to use a external cooler?The oil cooler plate thingy arrived today. I’ll be ordering AN fittings and a heat exchanger soon and will have cooled oil! Yay!
View attachment 231066
I’m going to use a 10 row mishimoto external one or maybe the 19 row one. Not sure yet.does your radiator have the ports for it or are you going to use a external cooler?
I’ll be doing this shortly. Chasing a suspension squeak that’s driving me nuts. I got the Moog “problem solver” parts.Replaced both sway bar end links, even though only the drivers side was broke. The passenger side was quite rusty underneath that plastic sleeve of the damn piss poor design of the OE ones.
Installed some Moog ones, and sprayed some fluid film on the main bolt before sliding the sleeve/spacer on for good measure.
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
They went on easily, especially with the barrel style top nut.I’ll be doing this shortly. Chasing a suspension squeak that’s driving me nuts. I got the Moog “problem solver” parts.
Nice! Thanks, I will do it that way. [emoji106][emoji16]They went on easily, especially with the barrel style top nut.
I didn't remove the wheels, just pulled onto ramps and used a creeper, just like when I change the oil.
Remove both sides before installing, it allows the swaybar to rotate upwards so you can fit the endlinks between it and the control arm. Only tighten the first side slightly so you still have enough play to install the other side, then you can torque each side down to 17 lbs ft.
It seems to take forever to get them torqued because the bushings squish down so much.... Lol
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
yes, and normally it should be around 180deg (I think)@Doubeleive can the tech2 read oil temp?
I wonder if HPTuners can read it too then... hmmmmmmmyes, and normally it should be around 180deg (I think)