What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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swathdiver

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combustion of E85 changes the acidic ph of the oil so if you have cheap oil that is not E85 compatible (acidic neutralizers additives )

the acidic level in the oil can rise and damage the engine parts

https://pubs.rsc.org/en/content/articlehtml/2017/ra/c7ra00357a

That's from Asia. Even our "cheap" oils meet GM6094M, which was the standard in place in the early 2000s for the L59 5.3 motor.

That first sentence did it for me, couldn't take them serious after that.
 

BG1988

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That's from Asia. Even our "cheap" oils meet GM6094M, which was the standard in place in the early 2000s for the L59 5.3 motor.

That first sentence did it for me, couldn't take them serious after that.
most put the cheapest crap, they can buy


cough cough 19.95 oil change..
 
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swathdiver

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most put the cheapest crap, they can buy cough cough 19.95 oil change..

Well, next time around I'm going to run Walmart's Super Tech synthetic in my truck and then send off a sample to Blackstone. In the 1990s I ran a Jiffy Lube and we used Pennzoil oil which meets GMs 6094M standards. Saw no ill affects of using their Performax synthetic in my Buick either. Are there any oils in the USA that are not ethanol friendly?

Funny thing to me, when I read stuff like this, they all talk about water in the oil, stuff we NEVER even considered back in the day. All we were concerned with was getting our temps down as low as possible for maximum horsepower.

Someday I'll put a lower thermostat in the truck; either a 174 or 180. Stock is 187. We used to run 160s and my Buick even in summer, if I wasn't getting on it, would run 154 all day long.
 

CHOO CHOO

BackPagePhil
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Do the finance companies still keep the titles? The ones I've used the last couple years don't anymore. I have my title to the Denali

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
it has always been my experience that you do not get the title until the loan is paid off, although in the past I have seen some other peoples titles with the lean holder on them before
The two titles that I have had, were different. In Oklahoma, I held my title even with a lien on it iirc. When I moved to Pennsylvania, I had to send my title to them.

9a8d51246e96ea8cee52193d8af0565e.jpg
 
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Getting ready for the spring break road trip.

Checked that I had all the parts necessary to change out a tire and used them to lower the spare and checked the inflation. I don't think any of it has ever been used. The rods you use to get the spare down had no marks at all on them, looked brand new.

Also installed some new (hopefully brighter) headlight bulbs. Damn that was a job! Not like on my 2001 which is just raise the hood, pull a pin or two, and pull the housing out....damn design engineers.... Lol

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
 

mtc1328

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Got some used wheels and tires to replace the set that was stolen. They were there best set I could find in two days. The wheels show some wear, but so did my old wheels. They don't have the TPMS though, so I'll get around to that someday. I've since replaced the lug nuts with some Gorilla locks (to slow them down next time). l wish I had the foresight before I had to deal with this, but I will say that Travelers Insurance handled the claim really well.

I also installed a security camera overlooking my driveway, and will be installing a Ring doorbell ASAP.

20190317_182356.jpg
 

Hi-psi

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Figured I'd ask here before creating a dedicated thread...

Presently I'm sitting at stock height front, about a 1.5'ish drop in the rear which has me sitting about dead level eliminating that factory rake.

At some point the plan is to do a 2/3. Doing a 3 on the rear, are the shorter sway bar links needed? I've seen statements both ways. Not needed until 4+, or needed at 3 also.

If the reigning consensus is that even at 3 it's better to have them, is there anywhere to get just the end links? Apparently Tony no longer has/can get the DJM ones. DJM seems to only offer them in a kit. Maybe those two things are related.
 

Tonyrodz

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Got some used wheels and tires to replace the set that was stolen. They were there best set I could find in two days. The wheels show some wear, but so did my old wheels. They don't have the TPMS though, so I'll get around to that someday. I've since replaced the lug nuts with some Gorilla locks (to slow them down next time). l wish I had the foresight before I had to deal with this, but I will say that Travelers Insurance handled the claim really well.

I also installed a security camera overlooking my driveway, and will be installing a Ring doorbell ASAP.

View attachment 219192
Rims look good. Craigslist?
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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Figured I'd ask here before creating a dedicated thread...

Presently I'm sitting at stock height front, about a 1.5'ish drop in the rear which has me sitting about dead level eliminating that factory rake.

At some point the plan is to do a 2/3. Doing a 3 on the rear, are the shorter sway bar links needed? I've seen statements both ways. Not needed until 4+, or needed at 3 also.

If the reigning consensus is that even at 3 it's better to have them, is there anywhere to get just the end links? Apparently Tony no longer has/can get the DJM ones. DJM seems to only offer them in a kit. Maybe those two things are related.
the hellwig end links are adjustable both the sway bar and end links, you may be able to just buy the end links from them directly if that's all you need.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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They were purchased from a shop that sold new and used wheels and tires, and other aftermarket stuff. They were take offs from another truck after he upgraded. The tires have over 50% tread. The set was $1,300.00. Not a bad deal overall.
are prices high around there?
 

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