Wheel Bearing Failed, last bolt holding it on..

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Meathead16

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My left front wheel bearing failed. I had a scraping noise with wheel movement for awhile now and have been scratching my head trying to figure it out. Any bad wheel bearing I've experienced until this point that mainly caused the signature howl noise, which was absent this time just a consistent wheel motion scrape.. now I know. Truck was driven into the wheel started doing funky things and that scape became a hard grind. I mentioned this because I think it might have something to do with the fact that the lower left bolt, the only one that's holding it on is completely seized in place. I've tried: (in no particular order, used combinations of methods in a logical order)
-Impact wrench (rounded it off)
-heat, lots of heat.. (the entire length of the bore)
-lots of penetrating fluid
-cutting' the bolt head with a grinder (i assume this didnt work because thr threads are only at the end of the bolt)
-drilling through the bolt (1/3 of the way through no matter whichdrill bit I tried it just stopped cutting in. I used cutting fluid, low speed, high force)

It hasn't budged. I'm wondering if driving until such a failure point exherted excessive forces on the bolt binding it in place. New bolts came with the new bearing so that's a plus.

I'm hoping to get the bolt out out with out without out without screwing up the knuckle. I'm thinking if I take a grinder and cut the head off of the bolt clean as I can, that I should just be able to pound the bolt through with it still in the hub, since it only threads into the hub and not the knuckle. Will this work?

Any advice on ensuring this is a success? How bad is it If I happen to knick the knuckle while attempting this? My worry is how precise of a cut I'dhave to make to get the entire bolt head off and out of the way with no gap whatsoever between that and the knuckle.

Thanks
 

nick0789

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I can’t help with the bolt removal personally at this point, but have you considered taking the loss and replacing the whole knuckle assembly? It’ll require the removal of the ball joints, tie rod, and CV axle (if equipped) but would likely take less time and effort than what you’ve been through. They are anywhere from $75-100 on rock auto.

Curious to see what everyone else has to say. Good luck!
 

ScottyBoy

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I would grind the head off the bolt. But I would most likely disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle to give me more room if needed. A reciprocating saw with a good metal cutting blade might be an option as well.
 

rdezs

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Remove knuckle so you can work on it on a bench. Cut the bolt head off. Apply a little heat to the knuckle around the bolt. Get it hot, but not glowing red or anything. Apply penetrating oil. The heat will suck it in. Start with light taps with a hammer and punch.

It's quite possible the boat was distorted.... You might end up using a press to get it out. Worst case scenario, replace the knuckle.
 

alpha_omega

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Chances are if you’ve done that much damage to the wheel bearing that knuckle might be shot. Might be cheaper faster just to replace it if you can find them.

Make sure you get new axle and washer along with your wheel hub bolts.

*Edit: I missed the part about it coming with the bolts. Disregard.

Also, while you were working on those bolts, did you have that knuckle supported or was it free hanging?
 
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Meathead16

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Chances are if you’ve done that much damage to the wheel bearing that knuckle might be shot. Might be cheaper faster just to replace it if you can find them.

Make sure you get new axle and washer along with your wheel hub bolts.

*Edit: I missed the part about it coming with the bolts. Disregard.

Also, while you were working on those bolts, did you have that knuckle supported or was it free hanging?
Are you talking the whole axle cv shaft? Knuckle was free hanging, I left it that way so I could turn the wheel for access. I ended up using a grinder and very carefully cut off the head of the bolt and then used a socket extension and a sledge to knock the bolt out of the knuckle. Just barely knicked the knuckle but I was able to get the hub swapped out and back on the road
 

alpha_omega

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Are you talking the whole axle cv shaft? Knuckle was free hanging, I left it that way so I could turn the wheel for access. I ended up using a grinder and very carefully cut off the head of the bolt and then used a socket extension and a sledge to knock the bolt out of the knuckle. Just barely knicked the knuckle but I was able to get the hub swapped out and back on the road
How’s it feel and drive now that it’s been repaired?
 

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