WHAT OIL PUMP AFTER AFM/VVT DELETE?

[ProjectLT]

Doing an AFM and VVT delete on my 2011 Tahoe LT (5.3). Going with a BTR Stage 2 cam. Going to plug the relief valve in the oil pan. While the engine is out I want to go ahead and install a new oil pump and put a new o-ring on the pickup tube. I’ve decided I want to go with a Melling pump but I’m almost confused because I’m seeing standard volume standard pressure, standard volume high pressure and too many other combos. What is a good oil pump to run? Do I need standard or high volume or standard or high pressure?

 

[avalonandl]

Your current pump should be fine. New o ring is a must.

 

[Geotrash]

Doing an AFM and VVT delete on my 2011 Tahoe LT (5.3). Going with a BTR Stage 2 cam. Going to plug the relief valve in the oil pan. While the engine is out I want to go ahead and install a new oil pump and put a new o-ring on the pickup tube. I’ve decided I want to go with a Melling pump but I’m almost confused because I’m seeing standard volume standard pressure, standard volume high pressure and too many other combos. What is a good oil pump to run? Do I need standard or high volume or standard or high pressure?

I went with the high volume pump when I did this same work on my 6.2L and it's been fine, with the exception that I did not plug the oil relief valve in the oil pan. If you plug that, I would say that the standard volume pump will be a better choice. The pressure itself is governed by a spring in the pump's outflow valve. Melling pumps typically ship with 3 different springs, but they pre-install the correct spring whether it be listed as a standard pressure or high pressure pump.

 

[swathdiver]

Doing an AFM and VVT delete on my 2011 Tahoe LT (5.3). Going with a BTR Stage 2 cam. Going to plug the relief valve in the oil pan. While the engine is out I want to go ahead and install a new oil pump and put a new o-ring on the pickup tube. I’ve decided I want to go with a Melling pump but I’m almost confused because I’m seeing standard volume standard pressure, standard volume high pressure and too many other combos. What is a good oil pump to run? Do I need standard or high volume or standard or high pressure?

Just the M295 is all you really need. There's no benefit to running more volume or pressure in a street driven motor.

 

[Geotrash]

Doing an AFM and VVT delete on my 2011 Tahoe LT (5.3). Going with a BTR Stage 2 cam. Going to plug the relief valve in the oil pan. While the engine is out I want to go ahead and install a new oil pump and put a new o-ring on the pickup tube. I’ve decided I want to go with a Melling pump but I’m almost confused because I’m seeing standard volume standard pressure, standard volume high pressure and too many other combos. What is a good oil pump to run? Do I need standard or high volume or standard or high pressure?

Also, you might look at what Cam Motion offers. I ran the BTR stage 2 truck cam in my 6.2 for around 6K miles before swapping it out for a Cam Motion Stage 2 truck cam. The difference was night and day for both power and idle quality. I didn't like the idle chop that came with the BTR cam in daily driving like I thought I would and Cam Motion grinds their cams specific for the flow dynamics of each engine, whereas BTR grinds cams that are 'compatible' with the 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 and 6.2. The difference in power output with the Cam Motion cam for me was significant. I pull a 7500 lb camper and the Cam Motion cam made the difference of being able to run a higher gear and keep a higher speed on the same mountain interstate grades through West Virginia. And the Cam Motion cam sports a smooth idle, which I prefer.

 

[iamdub]

Doing an AFM and VVT delete on my 2011 Tahoe LT (5.3). Going with a BTR Stage 2 cam. Going to plug the relief valve in the oil pan. While the engine is out I want to go ahead and install a new oil pump and put a new o-ring on the pickup tube. I’ve decided I want to go with a Melling pump but I’m almost confused because I’m seeing standard volume standard pressure, standard volume high pressure and too many other combos. What is a good oil pump to run? Do I need standard or high volume or standard or high pressure?

+1 for a standard volume pump. Plugging the valve in the oil pan (I'd also recommend plugging the towers) will make the oil system like that of a Gen3 engine, so a "Gen3 oil pump" will be fine.

UNLESS you currently have low oil pressure due to excessive bearing clearances. Which, you shouldn't be camming such a worn engine. Even still, an HV pump doesn't fix the wear, it'll just get the pressures up to prevent the Low Oil Pressure warning.

 

[ProjectLT]

So M295 would be the way to go?

 

[Geotrash]

So M295 would be the way to go?

Yup.

 

[Ivanhoe]

I would add something like this to the oil pipe as GM only uses one bolt, just added security.

Link to cradle

There are other versions, it ensures it cannot come loose etc.

 

[Headsup9550]

There is so much misinformation on this site. It's almost every post! An m295 is not even the replacement pump for an engine with AFM, you people are telling folks to downgrade their oiling system! It's going to do no harm to keep the high volume pump in your engine, don't put an m295 pump in it! In fact, don't put one in any engine, there are much better choices out there now! Melling 10335 should be put in every LS engine ever built. Before one of you goofs say something about the age of this thread, I've been directed to it on more than one occasion so I hesitate to think how many people have read this BS and actually taken the advice! I have built thousands, probably tens of thousands by now and trust me, they need the nicest pump possible in them. If you can't afford a 10335, just wait to put it back together until you can!

 

[SpareParts]

Tens of thousands. You must work at Jasper?

 

[rdezs]

I personally like the Melling 10296, which comes with the +10 PSI spring installed. Also comes with a standard pressure spring, and an even higher pressure spring. It's a bump up in pressure and volume from the 10295, not suitable for AFM but works excellent if you keep VVT. With bearings within specs, you should see a hot idle of 35 PSI and 50 to 55 PSI running on the highway. I have one in an LQ4 iron block, it's a nice pump in between the standard pressure and a really high pressure.....

 

[Noggles]

There is so much misinformation on this site. It's almost every post! An m295 is not even the replacement pump for an engine with AFM, you people are telling folks to downgrade their oiling system! It's going to do no harm to keep the high volume pump in your engine, don't put an m295 pump in it! In fact, don't put one in any engine, there are much better choices out there now! Melling 10335 should be put in every LS engine ever built. Before one of you goofs say something about the age of this thread, I've been directed to it on more than one occasion so I hesitate to think how many people have read this BS and actually taken the advice! I have built thousands, probably tens of thousands by now and trust me, they need the nicest pump possible in them. If you can't afford a 10335, just wait to put it back together until you can!

There is absolutely zero reason to increase both volume and pressure in a truck engine that will live most of its life between idle and 6000 rpms. Also, a lot delete the VVT when they delete the dod and plug both the pan bypass and the oil towers which (like said above) turns it into a gen 3 style engine effectively. A 10295 pump is perfectly adequate for a gen 3 engine, especially a mild street engine that never sees serious rpms.

 

[rdezs]

There is absolutely zero reason to increase both volume and pressure in a truck engine that will live most of its life between idle and 6000 rpms. Also, a lot delete the VVT when they delete the dod and plug both the pan bypass and the oil towers which (like said above) turns it into a gen 3 style engine effectively. A 10295 pump is perfectly adequate for a gen 3 engine, especially a mild street engine that never sees serious rpms.

I do completely agree with that statement. I just prefer the 10296. It's a bit of overkill without going too far.... Which is what the 10355 would be.

 

[Marky Dissod]

... absolutely zero reason to increase both volume and pressure in a truck engine that will live most of its life between idle and 6000RpM.

For whatever it's worth, I drive like a leadfoot whenever traffic lets me get away with it,
and despite driving at least 50 miles a day on a considerably more assertive pcm tune,
I've NEVER hit 5700RpM, and get over 5000RpM about 3x a week if I'm lucky.

Vast majority of the time is spent UNDER 2875RpM; dyno charts that don't go under 3000RpM are of limited use.

 

[j91z28d1]

Tens of thousands. You must work at Jasper?

I laughed way too much.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

There is so much misinformation on this site. It's almost every post! An m295 is not even the replacement pump for an engine with AFM, you people are telling folks to downgrade their oiling system! It's going to do no harm to keep the high volume pump in your engine, don't put an m295 pump in it! In fact, don't put one in any engine, there are much better choices out there now! Melling 10335 should be put in every LS engine ever built. Before one of you goofs say something about the age of this thread, I've been directed to it on more than one occasion so I hesitate to think how many people have read this BS and actually taken the advice! I have built thousands, probably tens of thousands by now and trust me, they need the nicest pump possible in them. If you can't afford a 10335, just wait to put it back together until you can!

You are certainly entitled to your opinion regarding this site. I will, however, respectfully disagree.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I do completely agree with that statement. I just prefer the 10296. It's a bit of overkill without going too far.... Which is what the 10355 would be.

I agree with the use of Melling oil pumps for these trucks. I like the increased oil pressure.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Doing an AFM and VVT delete on my 2011 Tahoe LT (5.3). Going with a BTR Stage 2 cam. Going to plug the relief valve in the oil pan. While the engine is out I want to go ahead and install a new oil pump and put a new o-ring on the pickup tube. I’ve decided I want to go with a Melling pump but I’m almost confused because I’m seeing standard volume standard pressure, standard volume high pressure and too many other combos. What is a good oil pump to run? Do I need standard or high volume or standard or high pressure?

Do the oil pressure valve in the oil pan delete, and do the upgrade to the existing 1 bolt configuration for the oil feed tube (there are a few different options, but all achieve the same end result) and change the O-ring. I'd recommend replacing your current oil pump with a Melling oil pump, while you've got the motor opened up.

 

[OBSandaNNBS]

I have built thousands, probably tens of thousands by now

LS debuted about 28 years ago...10,000 builds comes out to about 1.4 per work day.

Well you have certainly been productive.