What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

The Cerakote was only $18 and took me way less time than driving to Walmart and having them do it. Not that I trust those idiots. Good to know though, in case I ever get to where I can’t do things myself. Oh wait- that would mean I’m dead so never mind!

Edit: I remembered reading in the instructions that you can’t do two coats- once it’s applied it’s a done deal and adding another coat will make it hazy. If they used Cerakote, you’re stuck. They should have warned you- instructions said don’t drive the vehicle or touch them for at least 2 hours. Those are some real expensive headlights, aren’t they? Man I hope they look good still. Here’s their Q&A on it:

“We do not recommend trying to touch-up areas, as this product quickly becomes chemically resistant once dry. This product is a one-coat application; more than one coat will have a cloudy appearance.”

I just had them re-do that one headlight and I'm good to go, had a mobile one oil change done at the same time so killed 2 birds.

 

[Rocket Man]

I just had them re-do that one headlight and I'm good to go, had a mobile one oil change done at the same time so killed 2 birds.

Must not be Cerakote then. Probably snake oil. Kidding. What warranty do they give you? Cerakote is for as long as you own the car, although all they do is refund you the price of their product. Walmart can’t be spending any time on them if they’re doing it for 26 bux though. I’d be leery for that price. But I’m leery of anyone touching my vehicles.

 

[Doubeleive]

Must not be Cerakote then. Probably snake oil. Kidding. What warranty do they give you? Cerakote is for as long as you own the car, although all they do is refund you the price of their product. Walmart can’t be spending any time on them if they’re doing it for 26 bux though. I’d be leery for that price. But I’m leery of anyone touching my vehicles.

No warranty as far as I know I didn't read the fine print for $26 I didn't expect one to be honest I just didn't feel like doing it. I'll clean everything else though lol

 

[Geotrash]

looks good but those worm clamps will start to leak in about 2-3 years at the most, maybe sooner facing down like that
these adapters are the sizes needed if you even wanted to make it leak proof
need 2 of each size for plug-n-play with the trucool
View attachment 449993View attachment 449994

So far mine haven't leaked at all since installing the Derale 13960 back in 2021. But I just bookmarked this for when they do. Thank you for the post.

 

[Doubeleive]

So far mine haven't leaked at all since installing the Derale 13960 back in 2021. But I just bookmarked this for when they do. Thank you for the post.

mine leaked (after a while) and I don't know about the chevy grillls but on my gmc I couldn't even reach them to try tighten them up without pulling the grill or bumper off so I researched the sizes needed to adapt the trucool thread to ANC and gm quick connect to ANC and just did a permanent fix and I had to relocate it anyway because it was making the engine get hot under a heavy load in the summer. I have to kind of wonder too if my clogged 3rd cat was creating part of the heat problem I guess I will find out this summer.
doing a 100mph up a steep upgrade at 8000ft when it's 80deg out will stress the oem cooling regardless lol

 

[Charlie207]

That is a mod I would like to do, especially being as I live where it gets to below zero at times.
Is there a write up with part numbers and whatnot?

I think as long as you have a good battery, and you remove any electrical issues, you'll be fine.

It's been incredibly cold here, well below freezing, for weeks on end. My single battery has worked great for the last 2+ years.

 

[Grady_Wilson]

I think as long as you have a good battery, and you remove any electrical issues, you'll be fine.

It's been incredibly cold here, well below freezing, for weeks on end. My single battery has worked great for the last 2+ years.

View attachment 450084

So far I have not had any starting issues, but it did crank a little slower than usual the other morning when it was -17*.
Hasn't done it since but I thought it would be a good preventive measure to run dual batteries.
I really need to get a block heater installed and plug in for those nights when it is below zero.
I have an OEM block heater, I just need to install it.

 

[Geotrash]

So far I have not had any starting issues, but it did crank a little slower than usual the other morning when it was -17*.
Hasn't done it since but I thought it would be a good preventive measure to run dual batteries.
I really need to get a block heater installed and plug in for those nights when it is below zero.
I have an OEM block heater, I just need to install it.

Having lived and worked in NoDak and Montana in the winters for years, I never had a problem with a single battery, though I kept up with proactive replacements every 3-4 years. I carry a lithium ion booster pack now, and only needed it once when my truck had been sitting in the cold at the Denver airport for 3 weeks one January. In that case, a second battery may or may not have gotten me going, but the booster pack sure did. A block heater is money well spent in your area though.

I have the 2nd battery in my 3500 from the factory, and all it means is I double the cost of replacement batteries every 3-4 years. Not a good value, in my opinion.

 

[Charlie207]

Having lived and worked in NoDak and Montana in the winters for years, I never had a problem with a single battery, though I kept up with proactive replacements every 3-4 years. I carry a lithium ion booster pack now, and only needed it once when my truck had been sitting in the cold at the Denver airport for 3 weeks one January. In that case, a second battery may or may not have gotten me going, but the booster pack sure did. A block heater is money well spent in your area though.

I have the 2nd battery in my 3500 from the factory, and all it means is I double the cost of replacement batteries every 3-4 years. Not a good value, in my opinion.

I would love to run a block heater, but there is no easy or practical way to power one.

Looking at the most logical reasons for a sluggish, but successful, start probably has more to do with the crank trying to spin through molasses than anything.

PMCS is key, but my OG point is to take care of the underlying electrical gremlins first. Throwing more juice at the system is just an expensive band-aid.

But, we all know this.

 

[Geotrash]

I would love to run a block heater, but there is no easy or practical way to power one.

Looking at the most logical reasons for a sluggish, but successful, start probably has more to do with the crank trying to spin through molasses than anything.

PMCS is key, but my OG point is to take care of the underlying electrical gremlins first. Throwing more juice at the system is just an expensive band-aid.

But, we all know this.

Agreed on the underlying issues. In my case, the dead battery was my own fault - I'd left a Range AFM disabler plugged into the OBD port. But apart from that, good battery cables and grounds are a must.

In the northern plains states, plug-ins outside of hotels, restaurants and offices are pretty common. But that won't help you if that's not the case where you work, or if the distance between your garage and where you park at home is too great, of course.

I used to carry a blue (winter rated) 25' extension cord that I'd plug in at hotels when it was really cold. (10ºF or less). This, after I learned the hard way that regular orange extension cords will shatter their insulation when you bend them at those temperatures.

 

[j91z28d1]

having not lived up there it's only what I hear but they guys in the crazy cold stations, besides just leaving the diesel equipment running idling for weeks at a time, they tell me when it's really cold the battery itself freezes and has a very low output. but as long as it's good, the high current drain from the starter struggling actual warms the battery internally. so slow cranking but don't let it try for more than a few secs, let off and wait for the temperature to rise in the battery and try again. after a few times they say it should turn over well.

I've never done it, but they tell me it's pretty common up north.

 

[Grady_Wilson]

I would love to run a block heater, but there is no easy or practical way to power one.

Looking at the most logical reasons for a sluggish, but successful, start probably has more to do with the crank trying to spin through molasses than anything.

PMCS is key, but my OG point is to take care of the underlying electrical gremlins first. Throwing more juice at the system is just an expensive band-aid.

But, we all know this.

I own two pre-war cars that have 6v electrical systems.
I am well versed on the need for a solid and clean electrical system.
New owners to antique cars that have starting or charging issues always want to convert their car to 12v.
The cars start and run just fine when the electrical systems are properly maintained.
This Yukon is the only vehicle I've owned in about 30 years that I have not added extra ground leads to.
I have cleaned up the existing connections and cables and made sure everything is doing what it is supposed to.
I need to either buy a kit or make my own extra ground cables.
It certainly wouldn't hurt and additional ground cables have solved some weird electrical issues in cars over the years.

 

[Scrappycrow]

having not lived up there it's only what I hear but they guys in the crazy cold stations, besides just leaving the diesel equipment running idling for weeks at a time, they tell me when it's really cold the battery itself freezes and has a very low output. but as long as it's good, the high current drain from the starter struggling actual warms the battery internally. so slow cranking but don't let it try for more than a few secs, let off and wait for the temperature to rise in the battery and try again. after a few times they say it should turn over well.

I've never done it, but they tell me it's pretty common up north.

I was stationed at Minot AFB, North Dakota and in my experience, warming the battery by using it isn't a reliable method. Having both a block heater and a battery blanket (an insulated heated wrap) was the ticket.

 

[j91z28d1]

I was stationed at Minot AFB, North Dakota and in my experience, warming the battery by using it isn't a reliable method. Having both a block heater and a battery blanket (an insulated heated wrap) was the ticket.

I could see that. but running electricity to them where they are parked isn't really an option. so unofficially they just leave them running all day and night which sounds kinda crazy to me. but you do what you gotta do I guess.


shame slow cranking doesn't work well. that's also what the manufactures of the electric equipment tell us with the big lithium packs. they won't charge if guys drive them till they die when cold, but do have internal heaters that will kick on when plugged into chargers, but are very slowly. they tell us if you can get it to move, the load on the battery will warm itself up much faster than heaters. but again, I'm south. Just stuff I hear. if it's 20s here for more than 2 days or we get a few inches of snow south tx shuts down and people are dying from trying to sleep in their cars because they can't warm their houses. we got a small cold snap coming and I've already seem panicky emails flying around offering employees hotel rooms near work if they feel then won't be about to drive in safely.

we southern people handle cold well haha.

 

[Grady_Wilson]

I'm lucky enough to have an electrical outlet right at the driveway, I guess they figured block heaters would be needed around here.
I have a yellow electrical cord that is supposed to be good down to -20* so I could use that when I get my block heater installed.
All this discussion reminds me, I need to bring my jump start pack in and make sure it is topped off.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Got some tires and wheels I should show up soon.
Although I'm much prefer the older eight round hole steelies, the newer seven spoke triangle junk has the offset that I need.
But of course we're having the craziest rainstorm we've had in a very long time before I've gotten a chance to put them on.

 

[Scrappycrow]

Got some tires and wheels I should show up soon.

I'll be interested to see your take on the quality of the Dorman wheels, such as whether the holes are stamped cleanly.

 

[Grady_Wilson]

I plan on pickup up a set of OEM wheels next time I'm in Calif so I can use them for winter tires.
A dedicated set of winter tires would be better than any 3 peak tires.
I should be able to find a set fairly cheap dow there.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

I'll be interested to see your take on the quality of the Dorman wheels, such as whether the holes are stamped cleanly.

I think they're supposed to show up early next week, I'll probably grab some pictures when they do.

I looked up the GM part number and the dorman's kept popping up.
And they're like a third the price of the GM units.

I've got 200,000 on my current steel wheels and I wanted more offset, tried spacers but somehow they made my brakes surge.
And all those tire rotations, the holes around the lugs aren't the prettiest anymore.

So I decided to go with those brand new options rather than something used from the junkyard or takeoffs from marketplace or something like that.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

I plan on pickup up a set of OEM wheels next time I'm in Calif so I can use them for winter tires.
A dedicated set of winter tires would be better than any 3 peak tires.
I should be able to find a set fairly cheap dow there.

What part of california, and when about.