What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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j91z28d1

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man that thing is clean. white always look good when it's clean.

mine is black and looks like the last owner washed it with sand paper. I've been meaning to hit it with a buffer for 6 months haha.

I noticed mine ran noticeable smoother with new plugs too. I was surprised, they normally make any difference when I replace them in my cars. I didn't notice any higher idle thou.
 

Rocket Man

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Hell I’ve had this crap for weeks. I figured I better do it. After 50 this gets to be too much. I’m beat. I will say, you can go down a rabbit hole with this stuff. I had originally just bought the Ts. Then I was like, well while I’m at it……and on and on and on….
You got plenty of years left to keep at it. I’m 63 and I still do my own work, it’s not that hard for me. The last time I pulled the trans was definitely hard though. That working on my back is for the birds. :p
 

Doubeleive

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spotted this jalopy in the parking lot while doing my shipping, thought it had some kind of aftermarket bumper at first but then saw the "wilco" that's pretty crafty
I wonder what the ride quality is like, looked like he had some fox shocks with reservoirs up front didn't get them in the photo
yuke.jpg
yuke1.jpg
 

iamdub

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They have plastic ones and metallized, the metal ones are better

I looked 'em up after reading your post. What makes 'em better? The way I see it, all the frame does is hold it to the manifold, which, the plastic OEM style does perfectly fine. The gaskets are still the O-ring style in either the plastic or metal frame. I'm not arguing, just trying to learn what the reason is for the metal ones even being engineered. Like, is there a fault with the plastic frame design or...?
 

Doubeleive

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I looked 'em up after reading your post. What makes 'em better? The way I see it, all the frame does is hold it to the manifold, which, the plastic OEM style does perfectly fine. The gaskets are still the O-ring style in either the plastic or metal frame. I'm not arguing, just trying to learn what the reason is for the metal ones even being engineered. Like, is there a fault with the plastic frame design or...?
years ago at a very reputable shop here in town the owner told me he sometimes had issue's with the plastic ones leaking and customers coming back and having to do warranty work, so he switched to the metal ones and had no problems, might be that the plastic ones warp or something I don't know that's the only thing I can come up with, i think he mentioned that the metal ones seemed to do better with the heat. I just took it for granted and have used the metal ones myself and have had no reportable issue's either. They are pretty nice (well made), cost a few bucks more but seem worth it.
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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Drove her up to my friends in Santa barbara, got her tent trailer out to fix a leaky air conditioner seal causing a bunch of roof damage.
 

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Charlie207

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Swapped in new radiator and water pump. No leaks so far......*

And, the loud noise was the water pump bearing, and it's gone now.

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Now I can RMA that Champion all-aluminum unit.

Kinda surprised that one of the two new "8.8" bolts for the thermostat housing that came in the Gates water pump box stretched when being torqued to 11 lb./ft. I had to reuse the bolts that were there, but they did fine.

I wanted to also do an oil change and swap the pads/rotors, but after burping the coolant system the oil was too hot to play around with, so I went inside to cool down. This was three hours ago and I already cracked a barley pop, so I'll probably not get to that stuff today.
 
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