What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Geoffsfas10

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Well this is weird...today it got cold and rained. Drove tahoe to work, everything was fine.

Went to leave work, acted like dead battery, one crank then gave up. Pulled key, tried again, it tried to start but the timing of the starter was real weird. Then it turned real quick and started up. Was fine once running. Drove it home and parked it, started right back up.

Went to go on an errand a couple hours later, no crank start, pull key, multi-meter on battery..12.2V...tried again and started right up.

Went to Autozone, did battery check, 96& charge and cranking amps were fine. Started fine there, went to store, started fine there.

Texting the shop who did all the work, they think I have a weird ground somewhere from everything being apart, and possibly the rain was effecting it. It was after hours, so we're going to work out troubleshooting it there tomorrow. Will be interesting to see if it starts no issue in the morning once its dried up.

It was a loose ground bolt on the passenger side head....found out putting my MIT on....
 

Just Fishing

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Today,
I took the tahoe to the tire shop so I can get some tires mounted for my little dinky trailer.

And today the Tahoe is going to haul the little dinky trailer to my wife's little sisters place with my woodchipper strapped to it..
Another weekend where I can't work on the new project!

:killer:
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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Today,
I took the tahoe to the tire shop so I can get some tires mounted for my little dinky trailer.

And today the Tahoe is going to haul the little dinky trailer to my wife's little sisters place with my woodchipper strapped to it..
Another weekend where I can't work on the new project!

:killer:
KOH.JPG
 

iamdub

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I know we're talking about 6l but I still bump the line pressure on the 4l60s if I do any trans tuning. Not across the board but above 50%, incrementally.

Of course. I wasn't talking about bumping it up reasonably. I meant cranking it way up as a one-and-done move to make it feel like a performance tune rather than adjusting the shift times and speeds, etc.
 

Geotrash

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Put the A/C belt back on. We’re up in Snowshoe, WV with our 2007 and I noticed some orange snow under the front air dam this morning where I parked it when we arrived last night. Popped the hood and found a leak under the new thermostat I put in this week when I did the radiator. Bolts were still tight and I only lost a cup of coolant or so, so I’ll fix it for good when we get home.

BUT, it was leaking onto the A/C belt which I found loose and dangling from the crank pulley. My compressor has been engaging with a clunk lately when it’s cold, so I either have a failing compressor or a weak tensioner. Probably going to put a new compressor in it. Hopefully won’t have any more trouble with it this weekend.
 

Rocket Man

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Put the A/C belt back on. We’re up in Snowshoe, WV with our 2007 and I noticed some orange snow under the front air dam this morning where I parked it when we arrived last night. Popped the hood and found a leak under the new thermostat I put in this week when I did the radiator. Bolts were still tight and I only lost a cup of coolant or so, so I’ll fix it for good when we get home.

BUT, it was leaking onto the A/C belt which I found loose and dangling from the crank pulley. My compressor has been engaging with a clunk lately when it’s cold, so I either have a failing compressor or a weak tensioner. Probably going to put a new compressor in it. Hopefully won’t have any more trouble with it this weekend.
I’d leave the ac belt off if you suspect the compressor is going out otherwise you might end up with metal shrapnel throughout the system like I did. I ended up replacing almost everything due to that- it even made it all the way to the rear evaporator core and when I tried to flush that, I couldn’t because there’s an expansion valve that you can’t open manually so you need to remove the rear unit and open it up. Unfortunately in order to do that you need to remove the rear lines and they’re connected under the vehicle where they corrode themselves in place so I had to buy a complete flexible rear line set for about $300 plus then I figured just replace the damn evaporator and valve…all told it was over $600 -700 in parts.
 

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